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Left headlights on a few times. Dead Batt


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I will try this. Any idea which wire or just trial and error it?

 

Since I have the black buzzer, it doesn't have the headlight's ON buzz just ignition key buzz, correct? 

 

If that's correct, then why does it buzz with the keys out of it? Is there a short somewhere?

 

Does it matter which side on the door pin you plug the wires into? I wouldn't think so but thought I would ask.

 

Sorry for all the questions...

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9 minutes ago, High2by said:

I will try this. Any idea which wire or just trial and error it?

Pin B (BLK/WHT)

 

9 minutes ago, High2by said:

Since I have the black buzzer, it doesn't have the headlight's ON buzz just ignition key buzz, correct?

Don't know. This is new to me.

 

10 minutes ago, High2by said:

If that's correct, then why does it buzz with the keys out of it? Is there a short somewhere?

Suspect Ignition Key Warning Switch.

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11 minutes ago, Ωhm said:

I see now, both wire are BLK/WHT. You need Pin B.

 

Ok. I remember seeing A and B but I didn't know which wire to plug in where. I can figure out which wire kills the buzzer though.:D

19 minutes ago, Ωhm said:

 

Suspect Ignition Key Warning Switch.

 

I would like for the thing to work so what is this? I've never heard of this switch but then again, I've never tried to make a buzzer work right.

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That switch is in the column. That’s the one I would love to have work properly but it’s the switch I was saying seems to be a science to work right as when I have installed it from time to time it will do the same exact issue you currently have with the buzzer. 

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6 minutes ago, High2by said:

Ok. I remember seeing A and B but I didn't know which wire to plug in where.

If your talking about the Door Jamb Switch, it doesn't matter. Switch is dual (two contacts} switch to ground.

 

1 minute ago, eaglescout526 said:

That switch is in the column. That’s the one I would love to have work properly but it’s the switch I was saying seems to be a science to work right as when I have installed it from time to time it will do the same exact issue you currently have with the buzzer.

Thanks eaglescout526. I've heard its a nightmare switch.

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3 minutes ago, Ωhm said:

If your talking about the Door Jamb Switch, it doesn't matter. Switch is dual (two contacts} switch to ground.

 

Yes, that's what I thought. 

 

6 minutes ago, eaglescout526 said:

That switch is in the column. That’s the one I would love to have work properly but it’s the switch I was saying seems to be a science to work right as when I have installed it from time to time it will do the same exact issue you currently have with the buzzer. 

Ahhhh. I may give it a go and see what I can do with it. I'm guessing you can't buy a new one of those but if I mess it up, that just means no more buzzer, which is kinda what I'm after anyway.

 

Can you swap a blue buzzer box for a black one? It would be nice for the buzzer to sound if I leave the lights on.

 

Thanks guys!!

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2 minutes ago, High2by said:

Ahhhh. I may give it a go and see what I can do with it. I'm guessing you can't buy a new one of those but if I mess it up, that just means no more buzzer, which is kinda what I'm after anyway.

 

Can you swap a blue buzzer box for a black one? It would be nice for the buzzer to sound if I leave the lights on.

You can buy the switch new but not the little clip that is used to put pressure on the switch. Course for being a GM column you would think delco would be producing them. But it just means you will never hear the buzzer come on from that area ever again.

 

You can swap in a blue one and still have the seatbelt and lights on buzzer. Just no key in buzzer. 

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1 minute ago, eaglescout526 said:

You can buy the switch new but not the little clip that is used to put pressure on the switch. Course for being a GM column you would think delco would be producing them. But it just means you will never hear the buzzer come on from that area ever again.

 

You can swap in a blue one and still have the seatbelt and lights on buzzer. Just no key in buzzer. 

 

I'd rather it not work at all than work every time the door opens so I guess it's ok. I'd still like it to work like it should but sounds like that may be a pipe dream.

 

I'll find a blue box to swap in and at least the headlight buzzer should work.

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I killed the buzzer staying on from just the door being open, which is a good thing. When I turn the key on, it still buzz's like it should but I still want to get into the column and see what I can find in there.

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1 minute ago, eaglescout526 said:

Don't forget to keep an eye out for the little spring clip for the switch. 

Right. I don't want to lose or break the part I can't get. What exactly does it look like or is it one of those things that you'll know it when you see it?

 

I've never been into a steering column but it can't be that hard.

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1 minute ago, High2by said:

Right. I don't want to lose or break the part I can't get. What exactly does it look like or is it one of those things that you'll know it when you see it?

 

I've never been into a steering column but it can't be that hard.

 

Refer to this. Weather yours is a tilt or not, most internals of the column are the same aside from the tilt control.

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43 minutes ago, eaglescout526 said:

 

Refer to this. Weather yours is a tilt or not, most internals of the column are the same aside from the tilt control.

 

That should make it waaay easier than it would've been. Thanks!

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23 hours ago, High2by said:

 

. The buzzer box in my truck is black.

 

 Well, interior lights are fixed but now the stupid buzzer goes off anytime the drivers door is open. Doesn't matter if the key is in the ignition or not.

 

Is it supposed to?

 

The buzzer is being energized by your interior light circuit when the doors are open.  When you redid your interior lights, you may have tapped into the seat belt buzzer circuit and that  is providing the current path to the buzzer.  

 

22 hours ago, High2by said:

I would like the thing to work if I can get it to work right. I'm getting tired of disconnecting the battery every time I go to work on the truck. 

So the buzzer stops when the door is closed?  If so, there should be no need to disconnect your battery.  

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11 hours ago, Manche757 said:

The buzzer is being energized by your interior light circuit when the doors are open.  When you redid your interior lights, you may have tapped into the seat belt buzzer circuit and that  is providing the current path to the buzzer.  

 

So the buzzer stops when the door is closed?  If so, there should be no need to disconnect your battery.  

I thought that maybe the two wires going to the door jamb button might have shorted with each other but I checked them as far back as I could and there no skinned spots on the wires and since that's the only two wires in there for the door jamb I don't see how the wires could "get together" to make the lights and buzzer work at the same time. Once I unhooked the buzzer wire from the door jamb switch, it quit even though the lights still worked.

 

I agree that when the door is shut the buzzer is quiet but when you are putting a window regulator in the door and it's open, that sucker is loud and proud, hence the battery gets disconnected.

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