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TO Loc or not to Loc


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OK, the 2WD Eliminator is coming along and it appears that at 261K the Dana 44 TracLoc is now an open diff. The addition of a Baby T-Bird coil lift and some adjustable boomerang shackels has got the truck up about 3 1/2" over stock no rake. It looks good at that height. New BFG AT KO2's at 265/75/17's has got the stance and the rubber that it needs. Napier flares and the correct trimming has everything turning correctly.

Now back to the rear diff, I plan on a gear change 4.11's to turn the 32's. Yes, the carrier break either requires me to go with thick gears 4.11T's and rebuild the TracLoc clutches, or install an open carrier and install an Aussie auto mechanical locker? Or I could go Power Trax have an auto locker in a Trac Loc carrier and use thick gears. I just don't know which way to go. 80% on pavement 20% rough Hawaiian lava based (we call them roads) you would call them trails. After a rain it can be tough getting up some 30/40% inclines. I really don't want to do a conversion to the drive train, everything right now is pretty well set up steering, suspension, transmission, engine, sometimes I just need a little extra grip getting up those lava roads. I have looked at Detroits, Aussie, Power Trax, the choices are out there its just selecting the correct way to do what I need to get a little more traction on demand.

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Personally I like the Detroit locker. Got one on my Chevy K30 and just picked one up for my D44 on the MJ. Haven't used a lunchbox locker in the rear, have heard conflicting things about driveability. I would however suggest a Spartan over an Aussie if you do go that way. They're a little heavier built and as cheap as $250 new.

 

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Over the years I've had all different types of lockers. I would not recommend any type of auto locker or welded up spiders. Lots of people will disagree though. Driving with them is quirky at best. I have an E-locker up front and the factory limited slip in the rear D44 with thick gears, works great.

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21 minutes ago, desertmike said:

Over the years I've had all different types of lockers. I would not recommend any type of auto locker or welded up spiders. Lots of people will disagree though. Driving with them is quirky at best. I have an E-locker up front and the factory limited slip in the rear D44 with thick gears, works great.

 

Agree. Went from 3.55 to 4.10 on my D44 using thick gears and and replaced the clutch packs in the factory Trac-Lok. All is well.

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Thats a DAMN nice looking MJ Hakukamana:beerchug:

 

I ran a powertrax in my rear D44.  Aside from the occasional scary, random unloading, it was a great traction aid.  I did have to coast/clutch-in around tight turns to prevent binding (and explosive unloading....), but other than that, it was fine.

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Maybe its time to apply the KISS principle, I know I need the 4.11's for the 32's, and the 44 is the right axle. Why screw with what actually works. Put in the thick gears, up the ratio, rebuild the clutch packs, and be done with it. In the long run its probably going to be the most cost effective and bullet proof solution. Its not driven hard but lava is like steel sandpaper, it tears up tires and you really don't want to be spinning your tires on the stuff. I've seen brand new tires wasted on a 1/2 mile lava trail.

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I think rebuilding the Trac-Lok is a good choice, given that your driving is 80% pavement. I definitely wouldn't go with an auto-locker. Second choice would be a TrueTrac, which is a limited slip but doesn't use clutches.

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I have a Yukon Zip locker.  As much as it annoyed me with how the product is somewhat goofy regarding installation and a few other things, it has worked flawlessly.  Instant engagement every time.

 

They can be had for a much better price than list if you sweet talk a dealer or wait for a sale.

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The final decision has been made, thanks for the compliments on the eliminator, and being old school I have decided to rebuild the 44 with thick gears and rebuild the clutches. One ???? I checked Randy's R&P and they have smooth and agressive clutch packs. Any insight into these?

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The smooth one will be better for daily driving, and the agressive one will be better for wheeling or racing but less comfortable on the street. The idea being that smooth won't grab as firmly as the agressive one, allowing greater speed difference between the two wheels. The agressive one will be more, er,  agreesive, in its matching wheel speeds. I would guess the agressive one will wear out more quickly too because it's doing more work.

 

My Jimmy has the g80 auto-locking differential. It's not bad, but there's a couple intersections in town where the roads come together at about a 45° angle, and unless I creep around them really slowly, the diff locks and spins the inside tire and I just feel like a moron. My choice would be a gear-driven limited slip, but they do tend towards the expensive side. 

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I've never heard of any option on the clutches, but I can say that the Trac-Lok in my 2000 XJ 5 speed is more aggressive than the Trac-Lok in my late wife's 2000 XJ automatic. The 5-speed is actually mildly annoying -- just making a low-speed turn into my driveway the clutches bind up and release with a series of loud "bangs." If your driving is 80 percent street/pavement, I'd say go for the smooth.

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