HELP NEED BOLT SIZES!!!

[Krisbodean85]

New member her been lurking a while till i found my comanche. well finally found it and the PO said it needed a new crankshaft position sensor. well i got underneath to look and the sensor is missing a bolt and the sensor is broken. so i ordered a new sensor and don't know what the size is. the sensor is still in the comanche. but going to replace it this evening when i get home.So does anyone happen to know the size of that bolt? threads and length? its a 88 comanche 4.0 manual 4x4 short box. also it looks like its going to be a pain to replace I'm thinking of just making an access panel on the floor board for future sensor replacement. thanks for the help 

[yxmj]

The head of the bolt is 7/16.....by about 1/2"

 

Before you chop a hole in the floor get together your longest socket extentions .....it is easier when your ratchet is back near the tail of the trans......sometimes a helper in the engine bay guiding the socket comes in handy

[Krisbodean85]

so being a 7/16 head I'm assuming its 1/4x20 or 1/4x28? 

[yxmj]

Since you have to take the old cps out to install the new.....take out the remaining bolt to be sure?

[Pete M]

in the link in my sig there is a bolt/nut thread (probably down in "other").    

[Ωhm]

1 hour ago, Krisbodean85 said:

well i got underneath to look and the sensor is missing a bolt and the sensor is broken

That scares me.

[Jeep Driver]

53 minutes ago, Krisbodean85 said:

so being a 7/16 head I'm assuming its 1/4x20 or 1/4x28? 

Those are very specific shoulder bolts the head is 11 mm and I don't think it's quarter 20 thread

[HOrnbrod]

OEM part number 6503520. M7x1.00x25mm (1" long).

 

Good luck finding them....

 

[Krisbodean85]

35 minutes ago, Ωhm said:

That scares me.

It’s not broken complete just the end of the sensor is chipped off. 

[Krisbodean85]

16 minutes ago, Jeep Driver said:

Those are very specific shoulder bolts the head is 11 mm and I don't think it's quarter 20 thread

I’m a machinist and welder by trade guess I need to get to making 2 of them. The one bolt that is still there is not a factory bolt don’t look like it. 

[HOrnbrod]

6 minutes ago, Krisbodean85 said:

I’m a machinist and welder by trade guess I need to get to making 2 of them. The one bolt that is still there is not a factory bolt don’t look like it. 

 

Machine about a hundred of them. You'll sell every one in about an hour....

 

Here's another pic from Cruiser

[yxmj]

You could try you local JY......they might have trans with bolts in that you could scavenge .....

And IMHO....it would be easier to re-tap the hole to a common thread, then just use an off the shelf bolt, quicker than making bolts?

[HOrnbrod]

I definitely wouldn't re-tap. Just p/u an ordinary M7x1.00x25mm non-shoulder metric bolt and use with a washer. The CPS would probably be centered close enough w/o the special 8mm shoulder.

[Krisbodean85]

if i use a 8mm bolt the only thing that would change would be the head of it instead of a 7/16 it would 1/2 i don't think that would make a difference and with the specs you just gave me it won't be hard to make 

[Krisbodean85]

Well hopefully it will work will know this evening 

[Krisbodean85]

Well the bolts worked great and removed the old CPS now the Jeep turns over and hits for a minute and then dies. So now I have to figure out what’s wrong with that. 

[Pete M]

a minute?  how long exactly?  is it closer to a few seconds or does it run steady for a minute?

[Krisbodean85]

8 hours ago, Pete M said:

a minute?  how long exactly?  is it closer to a few seconds or does it run steady for a minute?

its closer to a second 

 

[Pete M]

check the fuel pump resistor (3" whitish ceramic block with 2 wires coming out of it on the drivers side of the engine bay).  power is routed straight to the pump during cranking and then diverted to run through the resistor a second later to lower the voltage at the pump and quiet it down a tad.

[Krisbodean85]

6 minutes ago, Pete M said:

check the fuel pump resistor (3" whitish ceramic block with 2 wires coming out of it on the drivers side of the engine bay).  power is routed straight to the pump during cranking and then diverted to run through the resistor a second later to lower the voltage at the pump and quiet it down a tad.

ok ill try that this evening thanks , just check it with a meter? truck has been sitting for a couple of years the PO said all  it needed was a CPS but yall know how that goes. the CPS was damaged, i don't know if he broke it trying to take it out or what, but anyways it has a new one now. 

[Pete M]

check if it's even connected.  it's reeeeeal easy to knock off one of the wires (it was a halfass fix for complaints about a loud fuel pump)   if the wires are on and corrosion-free, then check for cracks or other damage.

 

 

[Krisbodean85]

Oh see what your talking about just put a jumper wire on to see if it’s the problem 

[Pete M]

no need.  just pull off the wires and connect them together.   

[Krisbodean85]

ok got ya thanks will report back 

[Krisbodean85]

Well still not running I done cleaned the fuel pump resistor still nothing done cleaned up the wires like cruiser54 said to do first still nothing. I’m thinking it may be the fuel pump