Krisbodean85 Posted May 30, 2018 Share Posted May 30, 2018 New member her been lurking a while till i found my comanche. well finally found it and the PO said it needed a new crankshaft position sensor. well i got underneath to look and the sensor is missing a bolt and the sensor is broken. so i ordered a new sensor and don't know what the size is. the sensor is still in the comanche. but going to replace it this evening when i get home.So does anyone happen to know the size of that bolt? threads and length? its a 88 comanche 4.0 manual 4x4 short box. also it looks like its going to be a pain to replace I'm thinking of just making an access panel on the floor board for future sensor replacement. thanks for the help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yxmj Posted May 30, 2018 Share Posted May 30, 2018 The head of the bolt is 7/16.....by about 1/2" Before you chop a hole in the floor get together your longest socket extentions .....it is easier when your ratchet is back near the tail of the trans......sometimes a helper in the engine bay guiding the socket comes in handy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krisbodean85 Posted May 30, 2018 Author Share Posted May 30, 2018 so being a 7/16 head I'm assuming its 1/4x20 or 1/4x28? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yxmj Posted May 30, 2018 Share Posted May 30, 2018 Since you have to take the old cps out to install the new.....take out the remaining bolt to be sure? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 30, 2018 Share Posted May 30, 2018 in the link in my sig there is a bolt/nut thread (probably down in "other"). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted May 30, 2018 Share Posted May 30, 2018 1 hour ago, Krisbodean85 said: well i got underneath to look and the sensor is missing a bolt and the sensor is broken That scares me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted May 30, 2018 Share Posted May 30, 2018 53 minutes ago, Krisbodean85 said: so being a 7/16 head I'm assuming its 1/4x20 or 1/4x28? Those are very specific shoulder bolts the head is 11 mm and I don't think it's quarter 20 thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted May 30, 2018 Share Posted May 30, 2018 OEM part number 6503520. M7x1.00x25mm (1" long). Good luck finding them.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krisbodean85 Posted May 30, 2018 Author Share Posted May 30, 2018 35 minutes ago, Ωhm said: That scares me. It’s not broken complete just the end of the sensor is chipped off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krisbodean85 Posted May 30, 2018 Author Share Posted May 30, 2018 16 minutes ago, Jeep Driver said: Those are very specific shoulder bolts the head is 11 mm and I don't think it's quarter 20 thread I’m a machinist and welder by trade guess I need to get to making 2 of them. The one bolt that is still there is not a factory bolt don’t look like it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted May 30, 2018 Share Posted May 30, 2018 6 minutes ago, Krisbodean85 said: I’m a machinist and welder by trade guess I need to get to making 2 of them. The one bolt that is still there is not a factory bolt don’t look like it. Machine about a hundred of them. You'll sell every one in about an hour.... Here's another pic from Cruiser Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yxmj Posted May 30, 2018 Share Posted May 30, 2018 You could try you local JY......they might have trans with bolts in that you could scavenge ..... And IMHO....it would be easier to re-tap the hole to a common thread, then just use an off the shelf bolt, quicker than making bolts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted May 30, 2018 Share Posted May 30, 2018 I definitely wouldn't re-tap. Just p/u an ordinary M7x1.00x25mm non-shoulder metric bolt and use with a washer. The CPS would probably be centered close enough w/o the special 8mm shoulder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krisbodean85 Posted May 30, 2018 Author Share Posted May 30, 2018 if i use a 8mm bolt the only thing that would change would be the head of it instead of a 7/16 it would 1/2 i don't think that would make a difference and with the specs you just gave me it won't be hard to make Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krisbodean85 Posted May 30, 2018 Author Share Posted May 30, 2018 Well hopefully it will work will know this evening Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krisbodean85 Posted May 31, 2018 Author Share Posted May 31, 2018 Well the bolts worked great and removed the old CPS now the Jeep turns over and hits for a minute and then dies. So now I have to figure out what’s wrong with that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 31, 2018 Share Posted May 31, 2018 a minute? how long exactly? is it closer to a few seconds or does it run steady for a minute? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krisbodean85 Posted May 31, 2018 Author Share Posted May 31, 2018 8 hours ago, Pete M said: a minute? how long exactly? is it closer to a few seconds or does it run steady for a minute? its closer to a second Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 31, 2018 Share Posted May 31, 2018 check the fuel pump resistor (3" whitish ceramic block with 2 wires coming out of it on the drivers side of the engine bay). power is routed straight to the pump during cranking and then diverted to run through the resistor a second later to lower the voltage at the pump and quiet it down a tad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krisbodean85 Posted May 31, 2018 Author Share Posted May 31, 2018 6 minutes ago, Pete M said: check the fuel pump resistor (3" whitish ceramic block with 2 wires coming out of it on the drivers side of the engine bay). power is routed straight to the pump during cranking and then diverted to run through the resistor a second later to lower the voltage at the pump and quiet it down a tad. ok ill try that this evening thanks , just check it with a meter? truck has been sitting for a couple of years the PO said all it needed was a CPS but yall know how that goes. the CPS was damaged, i don't know if he broke it trying to take it out or what, but anyways it has a new one now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 31, 2018 Share Posted May 31, 2018 check if it's even connected. it's reeeeeal easy to knock off one of the wires (it was a halfass fix for complaints about a loud fuel pump) if the wires are on and corrosion-free, then check for cracks or other damage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krisbodean85 Posted May 31, 2018 Author Share Posted May 31, 2018 Oh see what your talking about just put a jumper wire on to see if it’s the problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 31, 2018 Share Posted May 31, 2018 no need. just pull off the wires and connect them together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krisbodean85 Posted May 31, 2018 Author Share Posted May 31, 2018 ok got ya thanks will report back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krisbodean85 Posted June 1, 2018 Author Share Posted June 1, 2018 Well still not running I done cleaned the fuel pump resistor still nothing done cleaned up the wires like cruiser54 said to do first still nothing. I’m thinking it may be the fuel pump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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