FxRacing282 Posted August 15, 2007 Share Posted August 15, 2007 so I'm thinking about upgrading axles strong enough for some hardcore burnouts with 35's and obviously the d35 won't last to long. i was thinking d44 or ford 9.0 in rear but not sure what to use up front. you guys got any suggestions? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted August 16, 2007 Share Posted August 16, 2007 The front is the hard one. Make it your priority and then just find a rear that matches in width and bolt pattern. Some common pairs out there: Upgrade the guts in your front Dana 30 (or get another and upgrade it) and get an Explorer 8.8 rear axle Pros: The 95-01 Explorer 8.8 is very strong and even stronger with a couple upgrades like a fullcarrier locker and welding the housing to the tubes. Factory disk brakes and 4.10 gears available in the junkyards. Cons: Some say that it's a waste of resources to upgrade a Dana 30 that much, but it has been done many time before. All depends on your driving style Ford late 70s high-pinion Dana 44 front and 9" rear -Pros: high pinion front, If you move up to the 3/4 ton versions you can get a Dana 60 rear -Cons: pretty wide. Not all years/models are made equal. The ones with the cast-on mounts are to be avoided unless you want to use the Ford radius arm suspension too. Dana 44s from a Scout -Pros: right width -cons: front is set at 0* caster Grand wagoneer Dana 44 axles -Pros: right width -Cons: Avoid the ones with the disconnect in the front axle Grand waggy front with a rear Dana 44 from a Isuzu Rodeo -Pros: The Isuzu rear axle has the same width and wheel bolt pattern, but comes with factory disk brakes -Cons: The funk pinion flange. But I'm told it's a direct swap to put on a regular Dana 44 U-joint flange Axles from a TJ Rubicon -Pros: right width, etc. -Cons: Wicked expensive and hard to get. I would probably consider custom axles if I could swing this much dough. This is just off the top of my head. I'm sure the other guys will fill in more details Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FxRacing282 Posted August 16, 2007 Author Share Posted August 16, 2007 wow i though i was smart until i read that. i don't know much about castor can you explain please? I'm not to smart with axles i know they rotate amd make tires move but i don't know what to upgrade. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted August 16, 2007 Share Posted August 16, 2007 Caster is the difference between vertical and the imaginary line drawn through the ball joints. Our trucks are set up to use a few degrees of caster which aids in the "return to center" when you release the steering wheel. Sometimes funny steering characteristics or even the dreaded death-wobble can pop up if you have less caster (this can also happen if you lift a Jeep but keep the stock arms which rotates the axle assembly and reduces the caster angle). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jared Posted August 16, 2007 Share Posted August 16, 2007 i don't think rubicon axles can hold up to 35's and "burnouts" for too long. :roll: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FxRacing282 Posted August 16, 2007 Author Share Posted August 16, 2007 alright you got me thinking...(don't happen very often) if i lift 3'' do i need to change my tracbar and lower control arms? one of my friends was telling me that but he dosent like peicing stuff together and only likes kits from expensive brands. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted August 16, 2007 Share Posted August 16, 2007 It's been done without, but I still highly recommend them if you do a lot of road driving. Your suspension is not a thing to cheap out on when yours and other peoples' lives are on the line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FxRacing282 Posted August 16, 2007 Author Share Posted August 16, 2007 what type of problems can i expect if i just do coils in front? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted August 16, 2007 Share Posted August 16, 2007 Poor steering and the axle will be shifted to the side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FxRacing282 Posted August 16, 2007 Author Share Posted August 16, 2007 shifted to the side like to far forewards or to far back or offset to the left or right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FxRacing282 Posted August 22, 2007 Author Share Posted August 22, 2007 hmm well i found a D44 for $100 :bowdown: with no brake stuff on it :cry: any ideas on what it would cost to but brakes on it? can i use D35 brakes on it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockhardzj Posted August 22, 2007 Share Posted August 22, 2007 shifted to the side like to far forewards or to far back or offset to the left or right? The axle will get tucked back, essentially shortening the wheel base, and it will get pushed off to the driver side when it gets dropped down. As for brakes, even if D35 crap stuck on the 44, it would not do justice. The 44 stuff will be heavier duty. It is slightly more expensive, but shouldn't be very bad at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted August 22, 2007 Share Posted August 22, 2007 A guy can put disk brakes on those axles for cheap. Something to do with a crown vic... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted August 22, 2007 Share Posted August 22, 2007 Grand waggy front with a rear Dana 44 from a Isuzu Rodeo-Pros: The Isuzu rear axle has the same width and wheel bolt pattern, but comes with factory disk brakes -Cons: The funk pinion flange. But I'm told it's a direct swap to put on a regular Dana 44 U-joint flange That pinion flange is no biggy in that yeah, a standard D44 yoke will go right on (I recommend a u-bolt yoke if you go this route), or you can use the stock Dana/Spicer part to put a 1310 joint on that flange. It's even avaliable from a rodeo (perhaps even the same rodeo that has a D44, but the ones with 12Bs definatly have it). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockhardzj Posted August 22, 2007 Share Posted August 22, 2007 A guy can put disk brakes on those axles for cheap. Something to do with a crown vic...Crown Vic discs seem to adapt to alot of things... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted August 22, 2007 Share Posted August 22, 2007 as well as the explorer ones too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockhardzj Posted August 22, 2007 Share Posted August 22, 2007 I can pull an 8.8 from my local yard for $100 on a expensive day, but I went with my 8.25 because it's right up there in strength with a D44, and still has a decent aftermarket for lockers, shafts, LS's, and diff covers and what not. I don't see a full float kit avail for it, but I don't see a reason I need one either. Also, the axle was sitting around, and had either of 2 destinations if I weren't to use it: Give it to my buddy at the 4x4 shop, or sell it myself... Honestly, I think a lot of people overlook the 8.25 as an option (like it's a POS stock D35 or something), I'll be swapping discs onto mine in just a few short weeks, so watch out for the easy as hell writeup, that seems to be non existent elsewhere right now... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offroader461 Posted August 22, 2007 Share Posted August 22, 2007 I'm ditching the D35 in my XJ for a 3.55 8.25 LSD w/29spline alloy shafts for $125...not bad for everything i wanted...correct ratio also...and its the same width as the D35..no need for spacers.. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FxRacing282 Posted August 22, 2007 Author Share Posted August 22, 2007 so you guys don't like the deal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted August 22, 2007 Share Posted August 22, 2007 $100 for a D44 minus brakes? What's it out of? What gear ratio? If it's a MJ/XJ one I'd say it's an alright deal. But, if you buy brakes for it all new, you're going to drop some cash. And if the gear ratio is undesirable (3.07, 3.55), you'll probably be out money there. And if it's a high milage unit and has a track-lok, it's probably in need of a rebuild. So, maybe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted August 22, 2007 Share Posted August 22, 2007 THe only reason why I suggested the 8.8 was cause they come in the most common jeep ratio's, Have disc brakes after 96 and come with a LSD (sometimes)while not the perfect axle for eveyone... it works for 75% of the ppl. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FxRacing282 Posted August 24, 2007 Author Share Posted August 24, 2007 well I'm not gonna get that one cause my mechanic friend has 44's front and rear ou tof a grandwagoneer and i said ill give him $200 for em and i think he likes the sound of that! think they are too wide? and did the 60's have drums up front? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted August 24, 2007 Share Posted August 24, 2007 Grand wag axles are about the same width. The front is slightly wider than a MJ axle, the rear is slightly narrower. Kidna funky, but that's how they are. $200 is a good deal if it's all in alright shape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FxRacing282 Posted August 24, 2007 Author Share Posted August 24, 2007 cool and thanks! What about brakes anyone know anything about that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted August 24, 2007 Share Posted August 24, 2007 On the Waggy D44s? They're disk front (chevy calipers) and drum rear. You'll need to swap your master cylinder in order to get proper braking, the pistions and cylinders are too big for the stock M/C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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