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youngfred's 91 Eliminator


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Mounting the Stabilizer Bar. I am using OEM

Mopar Sway Bar Link Bushings and the

Prothane Bushings Kit.

 

Should I remove the Mopar bushings on

the bottom of the end links and install

the Prothane or stay with the OEM's on

the bottom?

 

Does it really matter?

 

Bar.thumb.jpg.767624c6ddb0442590f998d4a9c10cbd.jpg

 

 

youngfred

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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  • 2 months later...

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Well, a season has passed and I have stayed

busy outside, every day. The weather has been

hot and dry lately, so I have been getting a lot done.

 

The Comanche slowed because I also rebuild and

restore/play around with - Enduros from these times - 1970 Yamaha DT1C :

 

DT1C.jpg.7f59b4e29c73367c49133e1f49d7a509.jpg

 

 

I got the front end done on the Comanche.

 

Here is a finishing shot:

 

 

FrontFinish.jpg.b373be251d978fa38e23a7dc2856ccaf.jpg

 

 

I am replacing the Booster/MC and using the 95/96 dual

and then converting the rear shoes, to discs - next.

 

 

 

youngfred

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Front-end done:

 

Shocks

Springs

Bump Stops

Control Arms

Sway Bar

Rotors

Wheel Bearings

Calipers

Pads

 

Only thing left to check, up-front, is the Steering Arms and Ball Joints.

I will wait to see how those are, at Wheel Alignment Time.

 

Off the Jack Stands and on the ground,

Torqued-down the Control Arms.

 

The Booster/MC arrived today.

 

I had thought about bleeding the system before removing the old

Booster/MC but the old, front Calipers were not cooperating.

 

I just Gravity Bled the two front - by first, cleaning-out both reservoirs

and adding a bit of clean fluid, then I removed the brake line to each side,

and let them drip, until clean fluid ran clear.

 

The old fluid did not look, too bad.

 

Since I am converting the rear brakes to disc and replacing the lines,

I will probably disconnect the lines to the LSV and clean out, what lines

are left, before connecting them to the new rear discs, maybe.

 

 

273516450_ComancheJuly2018.jpg.403b8660134978ed2f6e68e19ef3b570.jpg

 

 

youngfred

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Sat idle, for 7 years.

 

I have not started it, yet. I want to inspect

and replace, if necessary - any friction part

or maintenance part that might fail,

before putting it on the road.

 

 

This is how it looked when it I picked it up :

 

 

image.png.07c057743f45126175f33f11f065e442.png

 

 

youngfred

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

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Got the Booster/MC installed.

 

Brakepedalclip.jpg.a5f3bc1996a85066f6ca794ad1561c21.jpg

 

 

 

The Booster/Brake Pedal Clip above, was a real head-scratcher.

Finally, used two hands and a small screwdriver, to remove. :confused:

 

 

Booster-MC.jpg.5c205f55a9ffc1d64d786a5a0e7a25a4.jpg

 

 

Below, is what I used to Bench-Bleed the MC

and the new lines with the  Bubble-Flair Fittings.

 

Getting plenty of practice on flaring brake lines. :applause:

 

 

721336490_BenchBleed.jpg.7c355aa4e5fe7bfbe6a8eb1089a81253.jpg

 

 

 

The TeraFlex Rear Disc Conversion Kit comes in

next week.

 

 

 

 

youngfred

 

 

 

 

 

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Got the rear axle ready for the - Disc Brake Conversion.

The Kit should arrive, later today or tomorrow.

 

Removing the Backing Plate,  on the left,

the SC showed signs of a slow-leak,

with fluid soaking-thru, around the BP mount,

on the axle.

 

The Seal(s) still looked tight(on bofh-sides). No signs of leaks.

 

 

393812644_RearDisc.jpg.7a5e91612737dac6c31949c33675bbaf.jpg

 

 

youngfred

 

 

 

 

 

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Spun the SC fitting on both lines. The Fittings appeared to be original

and were real crusty - and had become - part of the brake line. :dry:

 

 

706475089_Lineends.jpg.fb628bd8bc94662f45e7e9f1f3fea9bc.jpg

 

 

 

Trying to decide whether to flare these or

replace with Auto Parts soft lines ???

 

 

Eastwood offers these:

 

https://www.eastwood.com/3-16-stainless-steel-brakeline-armor-3ft.html

 

 

 

youngfred

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I installed that same kit many years ago on my MJ. Looks like it hasn't changed at all. Did the instructions happen to mention what calipers can be used for replacements w/o buying direct from Teraflex? I know the commercial replacements for the pads and rotors, but not the calipers.

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1 hour ago, HOrnbrod said:

I installed that same kit many years ago on my MJ. Looks like it hasn't changed at all. Did the instructions happen to mention what calipers can be used for replacements w/o buying direct from Teraflex? I know the commercial replacements for the pads and rotors, but not the calipers.

...

 

That has also, not-changed.

The Instructions still only list - their Part Numbers. :dry:

 

 

youngfred

 

 

 

 

 

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  • 2 months later...

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Well, I got the brakes done and was gonna stop..

then thought about the rear-main seal leak. While I

had the truck up on stands already??Yea.

 

Got all of the parts, so Rear-Main Seal Replace.

 

~

 

 

Finally got the Interior, to - Smelling Good. :P

 

 

 

25122813_MJInterior.jpg.f9600a81a092d1b09ddc77ce9d464791.jpg

 

 

 

youngfred

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  • 2 weeks later...

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Got the Rear-Main Seal replaced and used

the Fel-Pro Blue One-Piece Oil Pan Gasket.

A heck-of-a-lot easier to line up and install.

Fer-Sure:holdwrench:

 

While everything was off and out-of-the-way,

I started in on the Oil Filter Adapter.

 

I was ready with the T60 Torx, but when I 

tried, the Torx bit - it would not grab ???

 

I was losing light but I put a mirror up to

the Bolt and it appeared to be more like

a large, allen-head bolt.

 

~

 

Is this what I have:

 

 

1249007783_OilFilterAdapter.jpg.5d2e7a447bed1c436e767b9be94973c2.jpg

 

 

That one above, looks like a hex bolt.  That one above is P/N - 53020237(after 7-16-92). 

 

The other one listed:  53009070(before 7-16-92) - for an MJ - (no photo) - is this the Torx Head?

 

Will either one work?

 

#21 above looks a lot easier to remove.

 

 

youngfred

 

 

 

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Removed the Oil Filter Adapter. I was

ready to use the T60 Torx but wound up

using a 9/16 Allen Wrench.

 

This must be the (after 7-16-92) shown in

the parts blowup, above.

Never seeing one before, that one looked

like a true Hex Head Bolt, that stuck out ???

 

 

Allen_Head.jpg.03fb6998b2688d5b27c5eea10e599a36.jpg

 

 

 

Cleaned the Adapter up a bit, new o-rings and installed.

The old, big o-ring on the block side was hard and square.

 

 

In.jpg.8e8b34fb3fef138bb045132fe273972d.jpg

 

 

My Slo-Build is inching its way, closer to the time of:

 

Fuel

Fire

Contact :banana:

 

 

youngfred

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Pulled the Drag Link and the Steering Damper out of the way

in order to drop the oil pan.

 

Checking the steering arms, they are worn, loose and noisy.

I am looking to replace all of the worn steering parts.

 

Is this the Tie Rod to use that is better than stock, for my 2WD?

 

If it is, I also plan to get the bigger Tie Rod Ends for the V8 ZJ,

that go with this bar.

 

 

Rough Country - 1143 - Heavy Duty Tie Rod Kit for Jeep: 91-01

 

1930732066_TieRod.jpg.55555634976d405a32a928638160d689.jpg

 

 

youngfred

 

 

 

 

 

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  • 5 months later...

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Been working the Slo-Build and have been

tightening things down, as I go.

 

Got to the point of, just add gas,

and let's go.

 

KEY/ON/START:

No Fuel Pump noise.

Replaced Fuel Pump Relay;  

clean start.

No Power at the 3-wire by the tank.

No Power at the connector, down by the e-brake.

 

With Key-ON:

At the Fusebox - FUSE-C10 has power on both sides, of fuse.

Connector at bottom door behind e-brake-NOTHING

 

Between C10 and Connector by e-brake.

 

Three wire:

 

Fuel Level

Fuel Pump/Switched Power.

Ground?

 

..

 

So, between the FuseBox and the SideDoor Connector,

I lose Power???Unless, it goes off, somewhere's else.

 

Any help would be appreciated.

 

 

 

 

20190329_115030.jpg

 

 

 

 

youngfred

 

 

 

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

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Fuel

Fire

CONTACT

 

 

Had not been started/run since 2010.

The Faded Inspection Sticker showed.

 

Put-in two gallons of gas(in case I had to go back-in).

Dropped in, a New Battery.

(reset the new ECM)

Did a -- Ralph Kramden, over to the cab and--

 

ITSTARTED.

 

~

 

(Had tried, previously to start but had some GROUNDING  issues that were corrected.)

 

~

 

 

 

Scanner showed:

 

23

24

 

Replaced Sensors:-

Throttle Position

Charged Air Temperature(on manifold)

 

-Cleared Codes.

 

 

 

MY TRUCK, TALKS-TO-ME(mt2500) !!!

 

 

youngfred

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 9 months later...
On 7/31/2018 at 9:23 AM, youngfred said:

...

 

 

Got the TeraFlex Kit installed.

 

 

Disc_Rear.jpg.31f258439bd92f00829a218d3b8a0c8b.jpg

 

 

Made my own lines.

 

 

youngfred

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Trying to set up the e-brake cables

after this installation.

 

Having trouble adjusting, using the original e-brake cables.

 

Tried some XJ e-brake cables from teraflex but they did not work.

 

 

youngfred

 

 

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