Jrwhite3230 Posted July 20, 2017 Share Posted July 20, 2017 Hello guys I have done as much as i can do to try and figure out the problem I'm having my comanche whis is an 1989 jeep pioneer runs Good then once on the interstate starts to like lose power But not all at opnce it starts to sputter Boggs down then gets worse and worse can't tell if its backfiring ? but my guesse it is !! I have checked my vacume system but i need to go over it again make sure everything is correct ! which i have several times ! i need a schematic from someone who has made one up on paper if possible there is a canister up front to the right passenger side behind the front bumper and just to the right of condenser coil ! i don't have one But where do those vacume lines Go ? also I have replaced every aspect of sensors map sensors Fuel regulator fuel relays new computer ! I have replaced gas tank and fuel pump and filters ! fuel throttle position sensor ! the engine is rebuilt ! I'm at a crossroad here But refuse to give in to this ! i need your help guys i am highly skilled but this is kicking my Buttocks ! So what ive decided to do is to start all over clear my head and begin at the fuel tank which ive already done ! i pulled the pump out it checks fine ! Fuel injectors are good replaced o rings ! anything Emmisions I have gone through tooth and nail ! anyways suggestions at this point is much apreaciated ! Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gene Posted July 20, 2017 Share Posted July 20, 2017 Does it still have a catalytic converter? A clogged cat will cause low power at highway speeds. It actually sounds like a fuel delvery problem, could you leave a gauge connected and check fuel pressures at highway speeds? Good luck! Gene Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G00SE Posted July 20, 2017 Share Posted July 20, 2017 Hello guys I have done as much as i can do to try and figure out the problem I'm having my comanche whis is an 1989 jeep pioneer runs Good then once on the interstate starts to like lose power But not all at opnce it starts to sputter Boggs down then gets worse and worse can't tell if its backfiring ? but my guesse it is !! I have checked my vacume system but i need to go over it again make sure everything is correct ! which i have several times ! i need a schematic from someone who has made one up on paper if possible there is a canister up front to the right passenger side behind the front bumper and just to the right of condenser coil ! i don't have one But where do those vacume lines Go ? also I have replaced every aspect of sensors map sensors Fuel regulator fuel relays new computer ! I have replaced gas tank and fuel pump and filters ! fuel throttle position sensor ! the engine is rebuilt ! I'm at a crossroad here But refuse to give in to this ! i need your help guys i am highly skilled but this is kicking my Buttocks ! So what ive decided to do is to start all over clear my head and begin at the fuel tank which ive already done ! i pulled the pump out it checks fine ! Fuel injectors are good replaced o rings ! anything Emmisions I have gone through tooth and nail ! anyways suggestions at this point is much apreaciated ! ThanksYou've came too far to turn back now, I know your frustration JR I deal with it everyday on my job.You're doing exactly what I have to when faced with an issue like this, step back and clear our head. Man created these monstrosities man will fix!(lol) Wish you were closer I'd be there to help...G00SE Sent from my LGLS990 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted July 20, 2017 Share Posted July 20, 2017 If it's a 4.0L try Cruiser tip 13: http://cruiser54.com/?p=68. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jrwhite3230 Posted July 20, 2017 Author Share Posted July 20, 2017 Does it still have a catalytic converter? A clogged cat will cause low power at highway speeds. It actually sounds like a fuel delvery problem, could you leave a gauge connected and check fuel pressures at highway speeds? Good luck! Gene Does it still have a catalytic converter? A clogged cat will cause low power at highway speeds. It actually sounds like a fuel delvery problem, could you leave a gauge connected and check fuel pressures at highway speeds? Good luck! Gene gene much apreaciate this and yeah i did a fuel pressure check and its all there ! am checking again and covering all the basis ! But I'm about to go advanced because the basics have been done this will be an epic find because i have covered the field ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jrwhite3230 Posted July 20, 2017 Author Share Posted July 20, 2017 Does it still have a catalytic converter? A clogged cat will cause low power at highway speeds. It actually sounds like a fuel delvery problem, could you leave a gauge connected and check fuel pressures at highway speeds? Good luck! Gene oh and no the catalytic converter was taken off !! its straight exhaust ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jrwhite3230 Posted July 20, 2017 Author Share Posted July 20, 2017 Hello guys I have done as much as i can do to try and figure out the problem I'm having my comanche whis is an 1989 jeep pioneer runs Good then once on the interstate starts to like lose power But not all at opnce it starts to sputter Boggs down then gets worse and worse can't tell if its backfiring ? but my guesse it is !! I have checked my vacume system but i need to go over it again make sure everything is correct ! which i have several times ! i need a schematic from someone who has made one up on paper if possible there is a canister up front to the right passenger side behind the front bumper and just to the right of condenser coil ! i don't have one But where do those vacume lines Go ? also I have replaced every aspect of sensors map sensors Fuel regulator fuel relays new computer ! I have replaced gas tank and fuel pump and filters ! fuel throttle position sensor ! the engine is rebuilt ! I'm at a crossroad here But refuse to give in to this ! i need your help guys i am highly skilled but this is kicking my Buttocks ! So what ive decided to do is to start all over clear my head and begin at the fuel tank which ive already done ! i pulled the pump out it checks fine ! Fuel injectors are good replaced o rings ! anything Emmisions I have gone through tooth and nail ! anyways suggestions at this point is much apreaciated ! ThanksYou've came too far to turn back now, I know your frustration JR I deal with it everyday on my job.You're doing exactly what I have to when faced with an issue like this, step back and clear our head. Man created these monstrosities man will fix!(lol) Wish you were closer I'd be there to help...G00SE Sent from my LGLS990 using Tapatalk Damn you are much apreaciatd and yes i know you would jump to the occasion to help if you were closer But ill take what i can get i lived in the days and years of no computer access or cell phones at all communication back then were smoke signals that never got answered ! food on the table meant ! you better fix that there vehicle lie or stupid your way into fixing it or your baby gets no milk at all ! And that was how it was and ill never forget the lessons of Ive learned ! when your stuck dead in the desert and you have no water but what you have left in your thermos ! what do you do do you give drnk to your vehicle in hopes by devine luck it gets you home or do you savor it and drink one sip per mile! on foot ?? well here i am pondering back in those days and days of my father even more desolet than my own and we have all this ,mass comunication and Information comming in from all sources around the world But yet here i sit ! I started out with no tools back in the day and no way to buy them too so i made my own set of wrenches with a file and hacksaw ! I made every tool imaginable looking back to that set of tools that now covers my wall in a memorial kind of way facing those tools there is a massive set of tools That only wish they had what those hand made tools had ! I judge a man by his tool box whats in it ? and are they new or used aren they well taken care of ! that shows the charactor of a man ! well I hope i am what i think i am ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jrwhite3230 Posted July 20, 2017 Author Share Posted July 20, 2017 Hello guys I have done as much as i can do to try and figure out the problem I'm having my comanche whis is an 1989 jeep pioneer runs Good then once on the interstate starts to like lose power But not all at opnce it starts to sputter Boggs down then gets worse and worse can't tell if its backfiring ? but my guesse it is !! I have checked my vacume system but i need to go over it again make sure everything is correct ! which i have several times ! i need a schematic from someone who has made one up on paper if possible there is a canister up front to the right passenger side behind the front bumper and just to the right of condenser coil ! i don't have one But where do those vacume lines Go ? also I have replaced every aspect of sensors map sensors Fuel regulator fuel relays new computer ! I have replaced gas tank and fuel pump and filters ! fuel throttle position sensor ! the engine is rebuilt ! I'm at a crossroad here But refuse to give in to this ! i need your help guys i am highly skilled but this is kicking my Buttocks ! So what ive decided to do is to start all over clear my head and begin at the fuel tank which ive already done ! i pulled the pump out it checks fine ! Fuel injectors are good replaced o rings ! anything Emmisions I have gone through tooth and nail ! anyways suggestions at this point is much apreaciated ! ThanksYou've came too far to turn back now, I know your frustration JR I deal with it everyday on my job.You're doing exactly what I have to when faced with an issue like this, step back and clear our head. Man created these monstrosities man will fix!(lol) Wish you were closer I'd be there to help...G00SE Sent from my LGLS990 using Tapatalk Thanks goose Ill keep you guys posted On what happens next it will be well documented just in case anyone else happens to run into what ever the hell it is !! i will get there ! The baby is grown up by now but still cryin for her babys milk !! The desert is beutifull in a comanche !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jrwhite3230 Posted July 20, 2017 Author Share Posted July 20, 2017 If it's a 4.0L try Cruiser tip 13: http://cruiser54.com/?p=68. Thanks ill scope this out and drop you a note if anything good developes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParadiseMJ Posted July 20, 2017 Share Posted July 20, 2017 All the vacuum lines on the passenger side use vacuum for HVAC, Cruise and Vac controlled CAD axle. They have almost zero to do with the running of the truck or engine performance. If you don't have a vac reservoir your heater and A/C (if equipped) will just blow out the defrost. Your Cruise (if equipped) won't work properly if at all. If you have a CAD axle, it won't work properly either. The only line you need to worry about affecting the engine would be the large line that comes off the intake manifold and crosses over behind your engine to supply the reservoir with vacuum (the SOURCE line). Does it still have a catalytic converter? A clogged cat will cause low power at highway speeds. The vacuum on the driver side does affect the engine. But lack of a reservoir will not affect the engine unless that SOURCE line is hanging loose, either not attached to anything or just not plugged and sucking air. Usually it'll cause a higher than normal idle. What you're describing is more attributable to a TPS if you're driving a pre-90 (Renix) rig. The TPS on Renix models is adjustable, and needs to be adjusted. Have you adjusted your throttle valve cable? If it's a fuel delivery problem, it can be lack of vacuum to your fuel pressure regulator...the little round can at the front of your fuel rail...there needs to be a short vac line attached to that too. And then, there's Gene's question. The cat will definitely cause the engine to flat out at a certian load. Like it hits 2500 RPM going up a hill, and you won't be able to get it to rev any further...and it'll drive like crap. Unless I missed it, I don't see any info about your truck. Answering questions is a WHOLE lot easier if we know, the year, the engine etc. Otherwise we're all just guessing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gene Posted July 20, 2017 Share Posted July 20, 2017 Hi jrwhite3230, We feel your pain! First, please give more history. This is a 1989, is it a 4.0? Still Renix system? You said you're not running a catalytic converter. Any other modifications to exhaust system, or vehicle overall? You state the engine was rebuilt. Was the engine modified in any way during the rebuild? Have the problems been occurring since the rebuilt engine was put in? Were there any problems similar to this prior to the engine rebuild? The Renix system uses lots of sensors, and connector continuity, as well as ground continuity, is essential. If you're not familiar with Cruisers tips, please see and do all of these http://cruiser54.com/ Unfortunately, it seems like many of the aftermarket sensors are total junk. Just because you replace the sensor does not mean that the new one is working well. There is lots and lots of wisdom on this board. You providing more information will probably help make this available to you. Good luck! Gene Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gene Posted July 20, 2017 Share Posted July 20, 2017 It also looks like you were having fuel system problems earlier this year, as you stated in this thread http://comancheclub.com/topic/52340-89-comanche-pioneer-no-fuel-pressure-at-rail/?do=findComment&comment=533495 How did that turn out? That problem might impact the current problem, if you're not getting adequate fuel delivery you will have problems at higher engine speed. Gene Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jrwhite3230 Posted July 21, 2017 Author Share Posted July 21, 2017 All the vacuum lines on the passenger side use vacuum for HVAC, Cruise and Vac controlled CAD axle. They have almost zero to do with the running of the truck or engine performance. If you don't have a vac reservoir your heater and A/C (if equipped) will just blow out the defrost. Your Cruise (if equipped) won't work properly if at all. If you have a CAD axle, it won't work properly either. The only line you need to worry about affecting the engine would be the large line that comes off the intake manifold and crosses over behind your engine to supply the reservoir with vacuum (the SOURCE line). The vacuum on the driver side does affect the engine. But lack of a reservoir will not affect the engine unless that SOURCE line is hanging loose, either not attached to anything or just not plugged and sucking air. Usually it'll cause a higher than normal idle. What you're describing is more attributable to a TPS if you're driving a pre-90 (Renix) rig. The TPS on Renix models is adjustable, and needs to be adjusted. Have you adjusted your throttle valve cable? If it's a fuel delivery problem, it can be lack of vacuum to your fuel pressure regulator...the little round can at the front of your fuel rail...there needs to be a short vac line attached to that too. And then, there's Gene's question. The cat will definitely cause the engine to flat out at a certian load. Like it hits 2500 RPM going up a hill, and you won't be able to get it to rev any further...and it'll drive like crap. Unless I missed it, I don't see any info about your truck. Answering questions is a WHOLE lot easier if we know, the year, the engine etc. Otherwise we're all just guessing. yes true that and thanks for replying this is an 1989 jeep comanche pioneer rebuilt bored 55 over basicly equivalent to boss 302 ! it has no catalytic converter its been taken off running straight exhaust ! the canaster you described is missing also the a/c is not connected or online yet so its basicly just for serpenteen belt usage (a pully at best ) i have no condenser too ! but that vacume line you spoke of comming off the intake manifold is it the one in the rear of the manifold ? because its not routed anywhere and yes it is sucking a lot of air ! so if i don't have the canaster should i just plug it ? or reroute it to the fuel regulater with a (T) or just simply plug it ? i am certain this will have an affect to the problem I'm having !! Also you exsplained about the throttle position sensor (TPS) its all new But I don't believe i did anything to adjust it ! its at its default position But still should runn without lossing power ! but I will proceed to adjust this as well leaving no stone unturned ! I do need to Revise my pneumatics (vacume lines ) make sure i have them correct I struggle to find a more advanced schematic on this year vehicle ! youtube is great for many things But not all ! Thanks for your help !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jrwhite3230 Posted July 21, 2017 Author Share Posted July 21, 2017 Hi jrwhite3230, We feel your pain! First, please give more history. This is a 1989, is it a 4.0? Still Renix system? You said you're not running a catalytic converter. Any other modifications to exhaust system, or vehicle overall? You state the engine was rebuilt. Was the engine modified in any way during the rebuild? Have the problems been occurring since the rebuilt engine was put in? Were there any problems similar to this prior to the engine rebuild? The Renix system uses lots of sensors, and connector continuity, as well as ground continuity, is essential. If you're not familiar with Cruisers tips, please see and do all of these http://cruiser54.com/ Unfortunately, it seems like many of the aftermarket sensors are total junk. Just because you replace the sensor does not mean that the new one is working well. There is lots and lots of wisdom on this board. You providing more information will probably help make this available to you. Good luck! Gene yes this is a 4.0 6 cyl bored 55 over so much larger cyl equivalent to boss 302 ! which changes everything ! the larger the bore everything must go up a knotch and as you said the defaulted sensors are designed for a smaller bore so this could cause a problem ! Engine machined at N.a.p.a ! with the understanding of the effects of boring it up they did the math and three other sources confirmed the upgrade its should run with the supplied equipment that was original to the vehicle ! but with more Horse power ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParadiseMJ Posted July 21, 2017 Share Posted July 21, 2017 Yes, plug that line OR put a plug/cap on the intake manifold itself and delete the line until you have a need for it. FYI, the lack of vacuum on the passenger side will make you HEATER blow through the defrost vents only...by default, so it's not just the A/C. The line(s) coming out of the firewall next to the heater fan housing operate your heater vent/blend doors and they run off that vacuum (pink or light colored one is for the heater valve, black one operates the blend doors). If all that stuff is ripped out, or you don't care if it blow thru defrost only, plug them all and come back to them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gene Posted July 21, 2017 Share Posted July 21, 2017 Did this engine ever run well since the rebuild? Did it run well prior to the rebuild? And what was wrong with the fuel system earlier this year? Gene Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jrwhite3230 Posted July 25, 2017 Author Share Posted July 25, 2017 Yes, plug that line OR put a plug/cap on the intake manifold itself and delete the line until you have a need for it. FYI, the lack of vacuum on the passenger side will make you HEATER blow through the defrost vents only...by default, so it's not just the A/C. The line(s) coming out of the firewall next to the heater fan housing operate your heater vent/blend doors and they run off that vacuum (pink or light colored one is for the heater valve, black one operates the blend doors). If all that stuff is ripped out, or you don't care if it blow thru defrost only, plug them all and come back to them. Hi paradise thanks man for the reply forgive me for replying back late Ive been full bore on this truck !! at the moment i got the truck running what i did was take that rear intake vacume line and T'd it to the fuel regulater so far the truck is running but still drops out boggs down when i press on the gas ! Which tells me i need to adjust the T.P.S which is new But!! the one i purchased was a two wire T.P.S for an automatic which i have a manual transmition ! so I'm trying to find out if there is a discrepencey between the two ? I paid about $50.00 bucks for the automatic T.P.S went back to see what the manual one cost it was $130.00 bucks which in case i will try and locate one from U-pull it here in tampa ! eighther way I'm trying to see if it matters between the two ! ? also My a/c isnt online i have it disconnected and I don't have a condencer or the vacume canaster in the front [assenger side next to radiater ill be locating one in a couple days and have all that back online then ill replace that one vacume line back to its defaulted position in the canaster ! so thats where I'm at i will be posting pics of wiring that i do not know what or where they go to ? soon as i can figure out how to get the pics into this post ! Thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jrwhite3230 Posted July 26, 2017 Author Share Posted July 26, 2017 Does a two wire (connector) automatic transmition T.P.S also work with a manual Transmition , Which originaly used a single wired connector for a 1989 jeep comanche pioneer ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParadiseMJ Posted July 27, 2017 Share Posted July 27, 2017 Yes. I had a 5 speed that already had a two connector TPS, when I swapped the AW4 into it, I kept the TPS and still working fine. Look on cruiser54's site to test and adjust your TPS, you'll need a volt meter. Be careful of the small screws on the TPS, they're small...and loseable. You needn't remove them to adjust, just loosen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jrwhite3230 Posted July 27, 2017 Author Share Posted July 27, 2017 Yes. I had a 5 speed that already had a two connector TPS, when I swapped the AW4 into it, I kept the TPS and still working fine. Look on cruiser54's site to test and adjust your TPS, you'll need a volt meter. Be careful of the small screws on the TPS, they're small...and loseable. You needn't remove them to adjust, just loosen. Thanks paradise that was a $130.00 question I went to O-Rileys and asked for a manual T.P.S they quoted me that price !! YIKES was my Thoughts ! Now its all about Re-adjusting the T.P.S heading over to cruisers Renix on that thanks !! can't wait to get the mechanics right so I can start on cosmetics !! Ill be posting before and after pics and keep it all well documented ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 17, 2017 Share Posted September 17, 2017 when were the cap/wires/plugs last done? how old is the coil? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jrwhite3230 Posted September 18, 2017 Author Share Posted September 18, 2017 hey pete the coil is new and the plug wires replaced and new plugs gapped Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jrwhite3230 Posted September 18, 2017 Author Share Posted September 18, 2017 This is a jeep comanche pioneer !989 ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 18, 2017 Share Posted September 18, 2017 what were the readings after testing the TPS? what about the MAP sensor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJTIM Posted September 18, 2017 Share Posted September 18, 2017 17 hours ago, jrwhite3230 said: This is a jeep comanche pioneer !989 ! Your grill is upside down- BTW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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