Removing and Re-using Dana 44 axle bearings?

[schardein]

I am working on a D44, and have another waiting for work to be done.  I want to pull the axle bearings, replace the seals, and re-install the original bearings with new retaining rings.

 

I have a press, but it isn't wide enough to allow the axle flange to pass through.

 

I called a machine shop, and you would have thought I suggested killing kittens when I said reuse the bearings.  He stated he had never been able to get the originals off without damaging them, and buying the "right tool" for doing it was to expensive (?????? !!)

 

Soooo, I'm looking to see if anyone has successfully pulled and re-used the axle bearings.  Is there a homemade press "accessory" that makes it possible at home?  Anyone familiar with a specific bearing puller tool?

 

If it comes to replacing the bearings, I can just cut off the old ones (for free!) and pressing the new ones on won't be a problem because the axle flange doesn't have to pass through the press floor to put the bearings on.  Although, yes, I've heard they can be a bear (requiring heating the bearing to expand it and make it easier to go on)

[Jtrux]

I've got this for when I do rear ends.

 

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/yga-56072?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-yukon-gear-axle&gclid=CjwKEAjwoLfHBRD_jLW93remyAQSJABIygGpZkNOIlALmS4wHIOe82wzhNoRF4ln5GSUZ0NaJX8DSBoCe2Xw_wcB

 

You can buy this as an accessory to pull axle bearings. I haven't felt the need for it since I could buy a lot of bearings for the cost of it.

 

If you don't know the history of the axle, it won't hurt to replace them.

 

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[schardein]

Jtrux, thanks.  That first one is a diff carrier bearing puller.  I have a vintage "Willys" special tool kit for pulling diff bearings.  That second one looks like the ticket though.  It's $281 on Amazon.

 

Thinking about my first post, I actually have three D44s, not sure I plan to re-use the bearings on all 3, but I do know the history on the one I am working now.  And in the end, I could spend nearly the cost of that puller at the machine shop having bearings/seals replaced, and I firmly believe in the adage, if you want it done right, do it yourself.

[Jtrux]

If I'm not mistaken the second one is just an accessory to the first one so you would need both to do what you need to do.

 

I might buy it someday. Could be nice to have.

 

I trust no one, so I'm all about doing stuff yourself, even if it isn't cost effective. Knowing how to do it is worth more to me.

 

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[DirtyComanche]

I tried to do it on mine. No go. Order the bearings from your favorite parts supplier and don't look back. Timken Set 10 or SKF BR 10.

[A-man930]

Don't the bearing races usually stay stuck in the tube when you pull the shafts??  All the D44s I've ever done I've ended up breaking apart the bearing/race "assembly" with the slide hammer on the wheel hub flange.

 

Assuming this hurdle was overcome then maybe you could cut off the retaining collars and seals and push the bearing off with a bearing splitter.  

 

I'm all for "if it aint broke don't fix it" and all, but sometimes its more work than its worth...

 

EDIT:

I get what you're saying now with the press issue.  

Just bust out the cutoff wheel and buy new bearings dude.   :laughin:

[MeanLemons]

Always replace the bearings at the same time you replace the seals....

[schardein]

Always replace the bearings at the same time you replace the seals....

Haha... axle bearings put on new about 10 years ago, axle ran for less than 10,000 miles, and then parked for 10 years.  Now the seals are 10 years old with no use, but the bearings are like new... see what I'm saying?  I want to replace the seals and the bearing retaining rings, but find it fiscally irresponsible to replace the bearings.  If forced one way or the other, I would run the old seals and hope for the best before I replace the bearings. 

 

With that said, I will be buying that bearing removal tool and doing it myself.  By the time I rebuild two other Dana 44s, I'll be about even considering what I've been quoted by local machine shops for the work.

[DirtyComanche]

I have the 'correct' tools to pull them.  I couldn't do it.  I loaded my press to the limit (20 tons) and it wouldn't go.  I could have ground the lock collar off and done it, but then you need a lock collar anyways.

 

A Timken Set 10 (the bearing, race, and lock collar) is $30.71 Canadian off Rockauto.  That's like $22 US or something.  WHY WOULD YOU BOTHER!

 

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1117705&jsn=253

 

Your races are probably pitted from sitting anyways.  You're going to spend $281 on a tool that probably isn't going to do it anyways, when for about $120 you could buy all new bearings/retainers for 3 D44s.

[schardein]

I see your point.  I have Timkens on it now, and they were more expensive than $22 ten years ago.  So in the end did you cut them off?

 

Also, I've already removed my lock collars and sourced replacement lock collars and seals.  I've always thought the procedure was drill/cold chisel the lock collars and then press off the bearing.  Your saying you tried to press both the collar and bearing off together?  I wonder if it would make a difference?

[DirtyComanche]

The bearing will come off easier without the collar being on there for sure.  I can't easily buy the collar separate, so when it wouldn't go at that point I just trashed the whole thing out.  Most places just cut the collar and bearing at the same time, and using a death wheel or angle grinder is much faster than drilling providing you're good at it.  You don't need much of a press to reassemble as long as you microwave the bearing and collar and make sure the axle shaft is cool.  I wouldn't take this stuff to any sort of a machine shop as IMHO the risk of them damaging the axleshaft is pretty high (they're going to use an angle grinder to take it apart), and it's not hard to do any of this yourself (even a cheap HF press will allow you to reassemble).

 

Honestly, I would have just run the seals you had before messing with anything.  Providing they had some oil/grease on them they're probably still fine.

[schardein]

 

Honestly, I would have just run the seals you had before messing with anything.  Providing they had some oil/grease on them they're probably still fine.

All I'd have to do is press on the new collars.  Maybe I'll just go that route.

 

I have the axle apart replacing an open diff with a truetrac, replacing the leaf spring seats, clean/paint.  Seemed a shame to not replace the seals while it was apart after sitting for 10 years.

 

I appreciate everyone's input.