Jump to content

a difficult leak


Recommended Posts

i can drive my MJ for more than a week before something breaks, after at last fixing the starting issue now i have a water leak, this time comes from the freeze plug in the back of the cylinder head, i can tocuh the plug and confirm there´s a hole but even if i can pry the plug out, the space is so limited that i don´t know how to push the new one in...

 

is it possible to fix it without having to remove the head?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes. Pull your driveshafts off, drop the crossmember, and then lower the transmission down. It should go low enough that you can get to the freeze plug from underneath. Just be aware that if your motor mounts are original, there is a decent chance this twisting will cause them to fall apart, so you may want to have replacements on hand just in case.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

careful with the exhaust and intake bolts. they reeeealy like to snap off. :(  last time I pulled a 4.0 head I actually left the manifolds attached.  worked pretty well. :)  oh, and the injectors are fragile too.  movement can cause the old o-rings to leaks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the mounts are in bad shape already so i gonna have to replace them anyway....

 

although if i remove the cylinder head, i could take the chance to clean it, change the head gasket, do the valve cover mod and install new tubes...

This is very true. It really come down to how long do you want the truck down for and how much money you want to spend at one time. It's always good to "kill 2 birds with 1 stone" or in your case many birds.. But like Pete said, those bolts like to break so be careful.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

while i was looking at problem i got an idea, i had some epoxy left in the tool box, cleaned the plug the best i could i pluged it with that epoxy... gues what? it worked... for now... refilled the coolant and burped the system, no over heating so far

 

 

And, if one freeze plug is corroded the others are also...........

 

at least i can reach those from below phew

Link to comment
Share on other sites

while i was looking at problem i got an idea, i had some epoxy left in the tool box, cleaned the plug the best i could i pluged it with that epoxy... gues what? it worked... for now... refilled the coolant and burped the system, no over heating so far

 

 

And, if one freeze plug is corroded the others are also...........

 

at least i can reach those from below phew

Hmmm. Seems like it would be easier to do with the intake and exhaust removed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

while i was looking at problem i got an idea, i had some epoxy left in the tool box, cleaned the plug the best i could i pluged it with that epoxy... gues what? it worked... for now... refilled the coolant and burped the system, no over heating so far

 

 

And, if one freeze plug is corroded the others are also...........

 

at least i can reach those from below phew

You should also replace the one in the back of the block since your going to be in there already,,,,, heck you may even want to do the rear main seal and pan gasket to be on the safe side. Whenever I do big repairs like that I try to kill as many birds with an M16 as possible :yes: .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...