Silver Star 1991 Pioneer Build

[kryptronic]

June 2017: Engine Testing and Specs

 

It's the eve of the PA state inspection, and I have everything in order.  The horn contacts are a little flaky in the steering wheel, but if it will sound, it will pass.  It will sound with enough effort, I hope.  Tonight I did something that I've been meaning to do since I got the MJ.  Whenever I get a new Jeep I like to run a bunch of simple baseline tests on the engine to see where it's at.  I had delayed these tests on the Comanche, and have instead just been fixing issues to get it ready to be a driver for a bit.  So tonight I ran them, and I'm sharing the results here. 

 

* Engine Vacuum (Target: 18 in-Hg): 17-18 in-Hg

 

* Fuel Pressure Vacuum Connected (Target: 31 PSI): 32 PSI

 

* Fuel Pressure Vacuum Disconnected (Target: 39 PSI): 41 PSI

 

* Engine Cylinder Compression (Target: 120-150 PSI, Max Variance 30 PSI):

 

Cylinder #1: 155 PSI

Cylinder #2: 165 PSI

Cylinder #3: 160 PSI

Cylinder #4: 160 PSI

Cylinder #5: 165 PSI

Cylinder #6: 160 PSI

 

I am very happy with these results.  Engine vacuum is just a hair low, which could be pushing fuel pressure just a bit high, so I am going to be checking the entire vacuum system for any cracked hoses or boots and replacing what's necessary.  Admittedly, these results are well within the margin of error of the tools I used to perform the tests, so I may not find anything, but it's good to check.  The compression test may be my gauge reading a bit high, but all numbers are well within 30 PSI (actually only 10 PSI difference), so we're good there.  And I'm sure my gauge is within 10-15 PSI of accurate.  The compression test was done on a warm engine at wide open throttle.  Each cylinder was tested twice and the results were identical for all same-cylinder tests (did not have to average results).

 

I think it's important to mention, for anyone picking this thread up here, that this is a 1991 MJ.  It has a 4.0 L HO with Chrysler electronics, not Renix.  These results may only look good to 91-92 MJ owners.  I am really not familiar with Renix Jeeps, so I'm not sure.

 

Earlier in this thread I mentioned that the PO swapped in an engine from a 1991 XJ with reportedly 110,000 miles on it as the original engine leaked oil badly.  As I said, this is undocumented.  I can confirm the engine was swapped, and the PO looks to have done everything right with it.  It's got upgraded wires, injectors, the good Felpro gaskets all around, etc.  The AX-15 shifts excellent and the NP231 works as desired, and now the 4.0L HO tests out great.  My exhaust vibration may be gone too.  Not sure, but it might be gone.

[HOrnbrod]

^^^  Excellent numbers.

 

Tip on the vacuum system:

 

To maximize engine vacuum from the intake manifold, move the existing vacuum canister behind the front bumper and move it into the engine bay. This shortens the vacuum line, helps prevent leaks, and maximizes the vacuum. I used one from a Porsche 944 and mounted it in the right rear engine bay corner like this:

 

 

Only one check valve is necessary on the HVAC vacuum line installed close to the intake manifold. No other check valves are needed or wanted on the other vacuum lines (fuel pressure regulator, charcoal canister, etc.).

 

[kryptronic]

Thank you.  I was going to research that.  With the 91, info is mixed.  I'm wondering why I have two separate evap cans.  Looking to possibly eliminate one.  My YJ only has one, shared by vaccuum and fuel, so I'm looking into it.  Will review your build when the time comes to get ideas as well.

[kryptronic]

June 2017: Pennsylvania Inspection (PASS)

 

Today was inspection day.  The MJ passed, for those that want the abbreviated version.

 

About two hours before I had to take the truck in, I decided those horn contacts needed to be looked at because I wasn't really confident in them.  I started to remove the horn bezel and felt it realign itself ever so slightly.  Without even having taken it off, I cured the horn issue.  It blows no matter how or for how long the bezel is pressed.  Case solved, going to check that off the list. 

 

Today must have been my day, because I am going to check off the exhaust vibration from the list too.  As near as I can figure, it worked itself out the other night.  After I got the tailpipe installed and I fired up the truck the thing was puffing white smoke from the exhaust like crazy.  I wasn't really worried about it because I knew it was either something inside the new tailpipe burning off, or was the WD-40 I used to lube it up to get it into the muffler that was burning off.  I ran the engine for about 30 minutes and cycled it through high revs then idle intermittently.  Most times I would rev the engine at around 4000 RPM for around 20-30 seconds then let off back to idle and repeat every 2 minutes.  Once or twice I got distracted and nearly redlined it.  Anyway, I think the vibration I was hearing was just something misaligned in the cat or just some buildup that needed to be blown out aggressively.

 

Reminded me of the old days when my dad would floor the old Nova on the beltway and take it up to around 80 and tell me the carburetor needed to be cleaned out.  I always thought that was BS, but maybe something to it.  I don't know.  All I know is I don't have to track down exhaust vibrations, so I'm happy.

 

Next came PA inspection.  I've taken all my Jeeps to the same shop for years.  The only thing they do is the annual inspections on the vehicles.  They're honest and very fast.  The mechanic did a test drive to start out and then pulled into the bay and opened the hood, then came into the office to ask me a bunch of questions about it.  Mainly because he was totally stoked to have such a nice MJ to look at.  He said it was plenty obvious work had been done to the engine, and it was impressive.  He then got it up on a lift and invited me under for a good look.  I basically followed him around as he did the inspection and watched and learned.  He had issue with the front brake pads and rotors and asked kindly that I replace them as soon as I can.  I told him I would do that within the next couple of days, as I have YJ pads and calipers ready to go that I thought I might need to put on the MJ.  Should have just done it.

 

He said he had never seen one so nice.  I'm sure he hasn't looked very long or hard.  Today I learned that all counties in PA have the annual safety inspection, which all vehicles must pass, but only some counties have emissions inspections.  Mine, York County, does have emissions inspections, but they are no longer required to run emissions tests on vehicles with model year 1995 or older with OBDI.  The emissions inspection is strictly visual, to make sure things like the proper sensors are there and the catalytic converter is present.  So that's good news for my YJ build too.

 

The mechanic issued both the emissions and safety inspection stickers and thereby deemed this MJ safe to operate on PA roads.  I'm obviously very happy about this.  Any I guess the club can celebrate too, as one more MJ is a driver once again.  After the inspection I picked up the factory SWB bed liner that Curt in Jacobus was holding for me.  It's the factory one that says 'COMANCHE' along the back of the bed.  We talked a bit.  He's going to try an hunt down some black door panels for me.  Might know a guy with a nice set.  The bedliner is in really good shape, and now I have a SWB Pendaliner in great shape that will go into the MJ pile for future sale/trade.

 

I am turning my focus back onto my YJ build for the time being, so posts may be sporadic as I do various things, but don't have much planned in the short term.  I really want to drive the Comanche and live with it and feel out how I want this build to go.  I have the new D30 and D35 that will be built out, and restoration and upgrade work before anything gets very exciting.

[kryptronic]

July 2017: New Shoes and a Bedliner

 

It's been about two weeks since my last post.  In the interim I've been cleaning out the garage to make room to remove the tub and drivetrain from my YJ and get them on the new chassis I built for it.  I've also been hunting down hard to find Comanche-specific pieces I'll need for my build.  I'm happy to say that I have about 95% of the interior pieces in original AMC black, so that's going well.  I have a factory SWB rollbar coming from California sometime in the next two weeks from another member on here.  Still on the hunt for a factory rear sliding window to replace my sloppy aftermarket unit, and a few other odds and ends.

 

Adding to the list of known issues:  Check the rear main seal, oil is accumulating there, losing about a drop of oil onto the driveway every 3-4 days.  I also need to check the NP231 output shaft and seal, as that is definitely leaking, more than the RMS, but not badly.  Assuming these are cropping up from putting some miles on the truck.  I've driven it all over PA and MD and have put on about 500 miles over the last few weeks scrounging up parts.

 

Now here's the real update.  As I said earlier, Kurt at Comanche Ranch was holding a SWB factory bedliner for me.  I picked it up on June 20.  I think the original owner of the bedliner was a painter, as it took hours to clean it up and get old paint splatter off of it, etc.  It had been sitting outside for a few years as well.  Here it is installed.  I have a SWB over-the-rail Pendaliner I now need to get rid of, and as I've got that SWB rollbar coming, I'll likely not be keeping this stock bedliner in once the build is complete.  I'd hate to cut it, but like the added bed protection.  I am Monstalining the bed during the build, regardless of whether or not a bedliner is utilized.

 

 

I keep an eye out on the local Craigslist every day for anything that pops up that's YJ or MJ related.  I found a guy who was parting out an 86 XJ with some Jeep Turbine wheels wrapped in 235 A/Ts who only wanted $200 for the set of 4.  The wheels were pretty nasty to start out with.

 

 

But they cleaned up nicely.  I needed to replace the radials on the truck with A/Ts to get around the yard (it's weeding, pruning season) and really wanted to try out the Turbines.  I cleaned them up just enough to match the 'beater' theme the Comanche has going right now.  Ultimately the tires will be replaced with 31s (I think) and as I'm lifting the truck, I'll probably run wheels with more backspacing to get a wider track.  But I like these, a lot.

 

 

Over the next few weeks I'll continue finishing the YJ, and will continue to collect rare parts for the MJ. 

[DirtyComanche]

I always liked the turbine wheels.  My first truck came with them.

 

 

Your truck is looking good.  Keep up the work on her. :thumbsup:

[kryptronic]

July 2017: Interior Pics and Random Thoughts

 

No meaningful work has been done to the Comanche since my last post in early July.  I have been true to my plan and am figuring out what I like and dislike about the vehicle, before I go on modifying it. 

 

In the interim since my last post I have completed collecting a full AMC black interior.  Actually one, and about three quarters of another.  I'm using the best pieces I have for this build, and will not have to source any parts from the burgandy interior when it's pulled.  What I've got collected is in very good shape.  Plus I got all the interior plastics in AMC Red as well, just in case I needed to source any of the plastic mounting points on the backside of any of the pieces.  Here is a pic of the seats laid out prior to cleaning.  The top of the left seat had a cursory cleaning done.  I'll have to get pics up later of how they looked afterwards.  Both were near perfect, aside from the obligatory driver's side vinyl tears and torn felt on the back.  You can kind of see some of the other black pieces in the background, all before cleaning. 

 

 

On the AMC black interiors, every bit of info I can locate on them makes me think that they were only offered in 1986 and 1987.  I may be mistaken, but can't verify there were any newer MJs with that color interior.  Here are a few reference pics of the current interior.  These are for my reference, as well as anyone who needs to know what a stock 'deluxe' burgandy interior from 1991 looks like:

 

 

 

 

I'm having a factory SWB rollbar shipped to me from another CC member in California via Greyhound.  I'm still waiting for it.  It went from Oakland to Las Vegas to Denver to Chicago.  It left Chicago on July 22, and I've seen no updates on it since.  So, my fingers are crossed that it gets here soon, and hope it's just missing tracking. 

 

I got the garage cleaned in early July and got a great deal on shelving at Lowes.  I shelved everything I could 24 inches deep and got all my parts organized and cataloged.  This allowed me to pull my YJ into the garage and do the final tear down for the tub and drivetrain swap.  I have the chassis in one bay ready for the drivetrain, and aside from a little floor work on the YJ, everything is ready to go.  I'm behind on that project, it was supposed to be completed in June.  More likely August or September.  Ultimately I'm thinking I'm going to drive the YJ in the summer months, and the MJ in the fall, winter and spring. 

 

So the MJ will likely be going into build mode next spring when the YJ comes out of hibernation.  I'm thinking early March, because it will be cold, and I'll be able to blast the rear frame and unibody without sweating to death.  That's if I decide to even do all that, I'm not sure it needs or warrants it.  But I probably will, I'm OCD.  The surface rust on my fuel sending unit is bothering me, and I know it shouldn't, it's not even bad - I'm sure some of you understand. 

 

Pic as she sits today:

 

 

Random notes and build thoughts:

 

Engine cooling is limited by the space in the engine bay.  With A/C components and the way the airbox is packed in, the MJ engine bay is tight.  Extremely tight when compared to the YJ, which I think could fit a big block in it.  I think that's leading to the engine running a little hotter in the MJ than the YJ (same exact drivetrain/electrical), and high residual surface heat on the hood is evident.  I plan on combating this by removing the airbox and replacing it with a conical filter, and possibly removing the A/C components.  I'm also looking into hood scoops to force air into the engine bay.  Would like to do something forward facing, clean and simple - along the lines of what they had on Oldsmobile 442s maybe.

 

At this time I believe I'm going to be building Silver Star out with a 4.5" lift and running BF Goodrich 31x10.5x15 tires on the stock turbine wheels.  I will not be cutting the fenders or removing the stock flares, nor will the MJ lose the front spoiler / air dam.  I believe this is going to get me the ride height at which I'd be most comfortable.  Will probably replace all the suspension components, and will be sure to get the proper control arms with enough clearance to run stock rims.  Axles (D30 non-CAD and D35) have already been sourced and are geared at 4.10.  I don't want the tires sticking out past the flares an obnoxious amount, and 31s should only stick out around 1/2" on stock rims.  Or that's what I figure anyway.  We'll see.  This plan could change.  32x11.5x15 tires are still on the table, but no bigger.  I need to ask a few more questions in tech to see what it really takes to do 32s.  Nobody seems to have a straight answer on that.

 

I found out that the previous owner bought the hood and header panel currently on the MJ from Curt.  The PO traveled up here to PA from Waldorf, MD to get those pieces for the truck, then I bought it from him in MD and brought it back here a couple miles away from where he got the parts.  Small world when you own an MJ, I guess.  We finally put two and two together that the hood and header panel on my truck came from him.  Which means that the hood graphics were not stock on this truck, they were from a Comanche Chief.  The silver on the hood and header is not Silver Star, or it's at least aged better than the rest of the truck. 

 

After paint, those hood graphics are going back on, I don't care if they didn't come stock.  I like them.  I may black out the entire center section on the hood inside the stripes, though.  Depends on if the hood gets scooped and how it will all play together.  A blacked out hood with silver hood scoop(s) could look cool.  I am going with a different side stripe, though - custom, based on stock designs.  I really don't like the wavy three lines.  I think they're supposed to look like a flag waving.  Oh, and this truck is staying silver.  It's going to play very nicely against all the black accents and black interior.  Doing a color change would be a mistake.  Somehow in the graphics package I would like to highlight the MJ has the 4.0L HO.

 

I think my MJ has headers.  I can't get a good pic at all, but the exhaust manifold looks nothing like what's on my YJ.  There are no expansion tubes on it and the way the pipes feed together looks more like headers than anything stock I've seen.  Between upgraded exhaust all the way back, and the upgraded injectors, I've got to say this MJ could literally toast the YJ off the line and for the duration.  Same exact drivetrain down to the stock gearing, different aerodynamics, and I have a feeling the MJ has the ante upped a bit.  Compression tests resulted in high (perfect) numbers across the board, I know the injectors are upgraded, looks like exhaust is free-flow all the way back.  It's fast, and it has pickup.  And it's geared at 3.07 right now.  Better airflow should help maximize all that.  The PO was building this as a keeper, and got the engine swapped and running well.  He never said what he did to it, but I'm impressed.

 

Thanks for reading. 

[kryptronic]

August 2017: Factory SWB Rollbar Acquired

 

Very quick update here.  I'm really stoked - the factory SWB rollbar I purchased from club member Gjeep arrived today.  It was shipped from California to Pennsylvania via Greyhound bus.  It was dropped off for shipment on July 6, was routed and put on a bus on July 16, arrived July 22 in Chicago, spent July 22 through Aug 5 somewhere between Chicago and Philadelphia, and ended up in York, PA today. During the waylay in Chicago I was beginning to worry, and I'm just thankful it arrived.  I believe this was my unicorn.  It will be blasted and painted and well cared for:

 

[kryptronic]

November 2017: Fuel System Refresh and a New Minuit Radio

 

Time for another update.  I've been in full swing on the YJ build that's in front of the MJ.  Working on the tub and drivetrain now, so it won't be long before that's done and the MJ gets full focus.  I've done a few things over the past few months, though.   The Comanche made it back into the garage.  Here we have three Jeeps in a two car garage:

 

 

I addressed my belt squeak issue and put that to rest finally.  The complete solution ended up being removing grime from and realigning the power steering pump pulley, removing three spacer washers from the alternator and putting on a Continental belt (formerly known as Goodyear Gatorback).  When the PO swapped the engine, he must have swapped some of the accessories and never got the belt to line up straight.  Through trial and error I was able to finally see all the issues with the alignment and fix it.  Crossed off the list!

 

So I was driving along one day and completely lost fuel pressure at the rail.  After opening a thread in tech, my suspicions were confirmed - bad fuel pump.  I assembled all the necessary pieces to do the job, including a Bosch pump from Napa, strainer, tank lock ring, and for good measure a new relay and ballast resistor.  The pump I pulled from the tank was the OE Bosch pump, and it lasted 236k miles. 

 

 

The new pump was supposed to be drop-in, however the top mounting adapter needed to be modified to make it fit.

 

 

It was modified as follows: 0.20" removed from the top, 0.20" removed from the top of each fin, 0.30" long by 0.15" deep notch added on either side of the opening.  I used a dremel to remove all the excess plastic.  With these modifications, the pump attached to the sender unit without issues, perfectly.

 

 

Fuel pressure is at pre-problem factory-approved specs.  You should hear this thing charge the fuel rail when it starts.  No question it's pushing fuel in proper.

 

Next came installing a new radio.  My old head unit cut on and off on the left channel.  I was assured by the PO that he tried to address the issue with new speakers, but no dice.  The speakers were new but the head unit was less than functional.  I send my old unit to Minuit's Radio Emporium for credit on a new AM/FM model with Aux input and white LEDs.  Let me say that dealing with Jeremy at the Radio Emporium was awesome.  He took time to explain various options, was very customer service oriented, and exceeded his delivery estimate by a good margin.  The radio was packaged extremely well and came with a new owner's manual and warranty information.

 

 

Installation was a breeze.  Required removal of the dash bezel and cigarette lighter, then the bracket that held the old head unit.  I unplugged the battery as is always a good idea when dealing with any electronics.   Unplugged the ground, antenna and harness and it was out.  Five minutes later the new radio was in by basically reversing the removal process.  Fit and finish are incredible.  Sound is out of this world.  To say I'm impressed with what Jeremy did is a true understatement.

 

 

This unit was so nice that I decided to get another identical unit for my YJ to replace the newer Alpine unit in it.  The white LEDs are killer.

 

 

Anyone considering a purchase of a Minuit Radio Emporium head unit should pull the trigger.  I can't express how happy I am with it.  So, with the radio in, and the fuel issues addressed, I turned to a lingering issue.  I had, a while back, broke my emergency brake cable that runs to the pedal.  I pressed it to hard and being as old as it was it broke.  So I got a new cable - note that part numbers are different for the front cable SWB vs LWB.

 

 

I am used to YJs, which run the cable up the frame rail, through the frame and up into the tub right under the pedal.  All the routing is under the vehicle.  For some reason I was expecting the same thing with the MJ.  I figured I'd be done in an hour or less.  I got under the MJ and disconnected the old cable then came to the shocking realization that the cable enters the cab through the back and runs under the carpet to the pedal.  Seriously?  So I had to do this:

 

 

Then I noticed a little rust forming on the driver's floorpan. 

 

 

Knowing Jeeps, and having dealt with severe frame rust issues on my YJ, I couldn't in good conscience install the emergency brake cable and cover this back up.  Especially because the carpet and padding was slightly damp, even though the MJ had been garaged for the past three weeks.  So I just had to pull the carpet to see the passenger side, which is always in better condition that the driver's side.  Right?  Wrong.

 

 

Yes, that is a shoddy patch job.  Yes, that is rust all over metal that was not properly cleaned or prep.  Yes, that is carpet padding stuck to the floor because it was put back in over wet paint.  Yes, that patch panel is epoxied in, not welded.  The PO disclosed to me that the original owner hit a stump with the MJ and did a poor patch job with undercoating at the back of the passenger side front wheel well.  It doesn't look bad from underneath, but it's covered with a ton of undercoating.  Apparently it was much more of a deal that the PO realized.

 

So, this is going to get fixed before the MJ comes back out of the garage.  She's been given priority over the YJ for the time being.  Will post again with updates as I have them.  Thanks for reading.

[kryptronic]

March 2018: Pennsylvania Personalized Plate Arrived

 

Silver Star spent the winter parked.  Over this past weekend I put the seat back in and put the MJ into service in the yard moving downed trees from the recent noreasters.  Then this came today courtesy of the commonwealth...

 

[kryptronic]

April 2018: New Emergency Brake Cable and Getting to Work

 

Happy one year anniversary!  I really needed to get the front emergency brake installed to continue work in the yard.  The old cable snapped last summer and I really needed it repaired to park on some of the steeper grades.

 

 

I was prepared for the emergency brake cable install to take a while after reading some horror stories in tech.  A 13mm wrench and about 15 minutes was all it took.  It was the front cable that runs to the pedal that got replaced.  Guesssing I got lucky.  The carpet was out but the bench was in.

 

Then the MJ got put to work.  The pines took a beating during the recent storms.

 

 

Cypress tress didn't do much better, either.  They'll be cut up and chopped later.  Heavy wood hauled all over wet steep grades with no issues.

 

 

I really love this truck, and I can't wait to get the build started.  It sat six months, and started right up, and ran hard like a champ for half a day.  

 

Gas sender seal is leaking gas.  Looks like I hosed up the install in the fall.  Ordering a new one and doing that over this coming week.

[kryptronic]

April 2018: Playtime with Lower Dash Panels and More Exhaust Work

 

So I got sidetracked from my YJ build working on lower dash panels for the MJ.  I needed a good winter project, and this fit right in.  I had the MJ's original burgandy lower dash panel, which was cracked at the bottom of the ashtray and up along the side and at the top as well; and two AMC black panels, one severely cracked at the bottom of the ashtray and both top corners of the ashtray, and one panel cracked and bent at the top right corner, but otherwise perfect.  All of them suffered from rusty backing plates.  Here they are before disassembly.

 

 

 

 

I disassembled all three panels, then blasted the backing plates with medium grit coal slag, and then coated them with Chassis Saver Sliver-Aluminum by Magnet Paints.  I love this stuff.  It's virtually indestructible. I've used it on a lot of various stuff on the YJ.  Blasted clean:

 

 

Coated in Chassis Saver, which actually has aluminum flake in it to help fill any rust-pitting.

 

 

Unfortunately, after a lot of work, neither of the black lower dash panels were going to be salvageable.  Which is a shame, because they're very rare.  With each crack repaired on the one, another crack formed.  Trying to bend and heat the corner on the other wouldn't remove the distortion from the bend entirely.  It was an exercise in frustration.  So, I had a crazy idea and decided to surgically cut them both in half, and use the good half of each to make one whole.

 

 

 

I cut along the top along a factory mold line, then through the thickest part of the side of the ashtray, and minimized the visible cut on the bottom.  I found the best way to bond the factory hard plastics was to use regular old Krazy Glue, then cut a channel along the seam on the back with a Dremel and fill generously with J-B Weld 50139 Plastic Bonder.  In the end the panel feels stronger and stiffer than it did from the factory.

 

 

I've put the black panel away for now, and will finish reworking what's left of that seam, and assemble it when I get to the MJ interior.  For fun, I decided to paint the burgandy panel black, so I did that as well.  SEM Color Coat 15013 Landau Black is a perfect match for AMC black.  And it goes on more like a dye then a paint, very thin.  Great product.  I've still got to install it.

 

 

Since I've owned the MJ there has been an intermittent sound (vibration noise, rattle, clunking all at once) typically heard/noticed at idle, especially when warming up.  It's been irritating, and trying to pinpoint the source of it was problematic.  It sounded like it could have come anywhere between the bottom end of the engine and the catalytic converter.  I finally posted something in tech about it and got a common sense response.  I noted in my post that I thought the catalytic converter was the culprit, and at over 230k miles, everybody agreed it was likely time to replace it, even if it wasn't the culprit.

 

 

That's what I was looking at.  After inspection, it looked like most of the noise was probably coming from the downpipe rattling against the transmission crossmember.  The transmission mount looked deflated and the exhaust insulator was worn.  They guys in tech were very helpful with part numbers, so I ordered a new transmission mount (Mopar 52002334) and a new exhaust insulator (Crown 53000101).  I also ordered a new high flow direct fit catalytic converter (Magnaflow 23229).  Our MJs have an exhaust flange on the downpipe, making the direct fit catalytic converter pretty much a requirement.

 

Upon removal I discovered the interior components of the catalytic converter were destroyed.  Chunks and bits of elements everywhere.  Sounded terrible when shaken.  With it removed I verified there was substantial play in both the transmission mount and exhaust insulator.  In hindsight, I think the mount on the transmission wore out, and at which point the downpipe started contacting the transmission crossmember, it literally shook the catalytic converter to bits from then on.

 

The install went very smoothly and in the end, I'm very happy to report this solved my intermittent noise/vibration issue.  Here's the transmission mount assembled with the new rubber:

 

 

There was about 1/8" clearance between the bottom of the downpipe and the transmission crossmember with a lot of play before installation, after adding the newer rubber, the clearance is 1/2" and has no real play in it. 

 

 

I had to use an extension pipe (Walker 42477) cut to fit to connect the catalytic converter to the muffler.  I think it would have fit without it if I didn't have to cut the old catalytic converter off the muffler for install.  I'm guessing a new muffler would not require the extension.

 

 

After spending some more time under the truck I'm beginning to seriously question as to whether I should completely tear it down to do a frame-up restoration or not.  It is so clean underneath, like no Jeep I've ever seen.  So glad she came from the south.  She's southern by the grace of God, I suppose.  So still debating on that.  Got a new friend.  He likes hanging out in the bed of the MJ.

 

 

I'm going to enjoy the MJ for a bit while I continue work on the YJ project.  So just planning on little things here and there for the MJ over the next few months.

 

[HOrnbrod]

It's good to see you will be able to salvage at least one black lower dash panel. 

[kryptronic]

11 minutes ago, HOrnbrod said:

It's good to see you will be able to salvage at least one black lower dash panel. 

I regret a not having a a second panel to ship you.  Luckily one made it and turned out great.  If I come across another I'll be sure to let you know.

[kryptronic]

May 2018: Lower Dash Panels Finished

 

So I've got spring fever and have been finding excuses to work on various Jeep projects.  Yesterday I finished assembling the lower dash panels.  Here are a few more shots.  I used stainless steel hardware instead of rivets to put everything back together.

 

 

I decided the true black panel didn't need paint.  I then located an old bottle of Armor All.  I gave both panels a good coating.  What fading there was present on the black panel went away, and the originally burgandy panel developed a sheen that matched the factory black panel perfectly.  They're nearly identical at this point.

 

 

I used headliner adhesive to reattach the speaker fabrics and velcro.  Notice the burgandy panel has the extra relay bracket attached, as that's the one that went back in the truck.  The black panel went into storage for when the interior actually gets converted over to black.  That relay bracket looks to be specific to the HO models.  The burgandy panel (bottom) had two additional holes not present on the AMC panel (top, showing holes drilled).

 

 

I realized I didn't provide any close-up shots of the black panel seem.  I had taken the better two halves of two black panels, cut them and sealed them together to create one good one.  Here is the backside seem, covered in a nice layer of JB Weld Plastic Bonder.

 

 

And the frontside seam, which is barely visible at the top of the ledge that forms the ashtray.

 

 

This shows off the visible portion of the seam.  It turned out great.  Replicating the factory leather pattern on the plastic was a time consuming process that was done with the plastic bonder and a utility blade.  It's practically invisible.  I'm stoked I don't have to paint this panel.

 

 

And here's a parting shot of the painted burgandy panel installed back into the MJ.  It's not the best look with the rest of the burgandy, but it will do for now.  I painted it mainly to see how closely the SEM Color Coat Landau Black matched the factory black.  It's dead on, so that's good news if I do end up having to paint any interior panels.  I might have to paint my center mini console as the black one I have isn't in the best shape, and will require repairs.

 

[Minuit]

Very impressive job patching up that lower dash panel!

[kryptronic]

32 minutes ago, Minuit said:

Very impressive job patching up that lower dash panel!

 

Thank you.  I can"t wait to start doing more to the truck.  I have big plans for it and just a few projects to clean up before I can devote full attention to it.

[kryptronic]

May 2018: Vacuum and Belt Chirp Fixes

 

I had a post in tech, and did alot of research on proper routing of the black HVAC vacuum line running into the engine bay.  It was broken when I got the MJ, and I routed it initially to the vacuum canister via the old cruise control servo connection.  Now it's routed to a check valve shared with a vacuum line running from the transfer case.  After my research, I believe this is correct.

 

 

I started driving the truck again a few weeks back, and it developed another case of belt chirp.  After alot of diagnosis, I tracked it down to the power steering pump pulley sitting about 1/16" out too far.  So I removed the auxilliary fan, and got out the pulley kit.

 

 

About 10 minutes later and no more chip.  Easy win, and I needed one.  Having the right tools always helps.

 

I am not a big fan of how the accessories are mounted on the XJ/MJ 4.0L platform.  

 

 

I'd like to go to something simpler, like on my YJ:

 

 

Would need electric fans, probably a battery relocation to make room for the higher alternator, air conditioning takes up space that might need to be reclaimed and I don't use it.  Just thinking out loud.  Hmmmm.

 

Since I got the catalytic converter replaced, I think underhood heat is reduced to the point where I'm reconsidering my earlier thoughts about scooping the hood.  I think the MJ was retaining heat in the exhaust due to reduced flow, causing (what I considered) higher than normal temps in the engine bay.  At this point, I think the stock hood will work and look just great without cutting holes in it.

 

Work continues on Wranglers getting finished before I start digging in deep with Silver Star. 

 

The YJ still needs some tub work and final assembly.  The TJ needs minor frame rust remediation and inner/outer frame painting.  The new JL has a Rubicon take-off suspension waiting to go on which will lift it around 1.5", which I'd like to get on before next winter.  My JK needs nothing, but I could always think of something...

 

I'm thinking at this point I'll be driving the MJ at least until the fall before I get to it.  I want it to get 100% of my focus.

[kryptronic]

June 2018: Vent Windows and 4.0L HO Badge Acquired

 

Just had to share.  Some more pieces of the puzzle arrived today.  Two pristine vent windows, and a 4.0L HO badge...

 

 

 

[kryptronic]

June 2018: Fuel Delivery & Inspection

 

For the past few weeks I've had an intermittent issue where the fuel rail was loosing pressure while driving, resulting in the MJ stalling.  To fix on the roadside, I had to dump what fuel was in the rail into a rag, and then she would start right back up.  Having already addressed the fuel pump by installing a new Bosch, and already having checked the relay and ballast resistor, I suspected the problem was the fuel pressure regulator.  Today I borrowed the fuel pressure regulator from Ghost, and had no issues.  I'll get a new one and put it in soon and return the borrowed unit to Ghost.

 

Today was also annual PA inspection day for the truck, hence the need to get the fuel pressure regulator fixed.  Silver Star passed without any issues.  The mechanic noted rust on the drivers front u-joint was causing it to wear, and suggested replacement.  He also noted I only drove the truck 600 miles in the past year, so he said I shouldn't worry about it anytime soon.  While the MJ was up on the lift, I took a good look at the rear main seal and rear Dana 35.  Both show evidence of slow fluid leakage, so I'll have to address those too.  And there was a major rainstorm on the way home, and I discovered the wiper motor needs to be looked at.  The different speeds are not functioning properly.  All in all, it was nice to have the truck pass the annual PA inspection - she's good for another year, and not much to do really.  She is a very solid driver at this point.

 

This coming weekend is the All Breeds Jeep show in York, PA.  It's the biggest show on the east coast, and quite a few club members are coming out to show their trucks and to sell and trade parts.  Krustyballer16 is bringing quite a few parts this way for me and others, one being a Dana 44 rear for Silver Star.  As there are several members showing their trucks to represent the club, I entered Silver Star, and she'll be there all weekend entered as bone stock without modifications.  I'm embracing the beater theme this year. 

 

She is a very solid driver at this point.  To quote one of my favorite characters, from one of my favorite films: "She may not look like much, but she's got it where it counts."

 

[kryptronic]

July 2018: Jeep Show and More Stuff Acquired

 

Silver Star began starting sluggishly and the radio would dim with the flashers on, so it was time for a new battery, and to check the alternator.  I purchased and installed a new Bosch size 34 battery to replace the worn size 58.

 

 

The alternator is fine, and she's starting right up again, but the voltage guage is reading low, so I have a thread open in tech to resolve that.

 

 

I had the truck at the All Breeds Jeep Show last month.  It was a terribly rainy weekend, and a great time.

 

 

Didn't win anything, but Alexia's truck placed second in the XJ/MJ modified class.  Krustyballer16 stayed the weekend, and brought a D44 for Silver Star from Indiana: 

 

 

He also bought a couple of factory bumpers for parts to help straighten mine out. The D44 is geared 3.07 with an open carrier, but will be regeared and will have a LSD.  The 4.10 XJ D35 I bought previously for the truck has been sold.

 

I also grabbed three 62mm High Output throttle bodies from Mean Lemons.  One is for my YJ, and both MJs will get one.  Superb quality and workmanship on these units.

 

 

New to me chief hood stripes came in the mail as well. These are NOS stripes I got from mjtjnj, and will be used as a template to create sets for both trucks.

 

 

So lots of parts requisition has been going on while I finish the YJ.  

 

[kryptronic]

Not much going on right now.  I'd like to get Silver Star in the garage within the next couple of weeks to treat a few areas of minor surface rust on the tailgate and under the rear window before they are no longer minor.  I'll go over the whole truck to be sure everything is cleaned and coated, and will address a quarter-sized rust spot at the bottom of the passenger side rocker as well.  I can't have the truck go through the winter without having paint on all it's metal parts.  I've put it off too long.

 

[WahooSteeler]

On 5/27/2018 at 9:14 PM, kryptronic said:

May 2018: Vacuum and Belt Chirp Fixes

 

I had a post in tech, and did alot of research on proper routing of the black HVAC vacuum line running into the engine bay.  It was broken when I got the MJ, and I routed it initially to the vacuum canister via the old cruise control servo connection.  Now it's routed to a check valve shared with a vacuum line running from the transfer case.  After my research, I believe this is correct.

 

 

I started driving the truck again a few weeks back, and it developed another case of belt chirp.  After alot of diagnosis, I tracked it down to the power steering pump pulley sitting about 1/16" out too far.  So I removed the auxilliary fan, and got out the pulley kit.

 

 

About 10 minutes later and no more chip.  Easy win, and I needed one.  Having the right tools always helps.

 

I am not a big fan of how the accessories are mounted on the XJ/MJ 4.0L platform.  

 

 

I'd like to go to something simpler, like on my YJ:

 

 

Would need electric fans, probably a battery relocation to make room for the higher alternator, air conditioning takes up space that might need to be reclaimed and I don't use it.  Just thinking out loud.  Hmmmm.

 

Since I got the catalytic converter replaced, I think underhood heat is reduced to the point where I'm reconsidering my earlier thoughts about scooping the hood.  I think the MJ was retaining heat in the exhaust due to reduced flow, causing (what I considered) higher than normal temps in the engine bay.  At this point, I think the stock hood will work and look just great without cutting holes in it.

 

Work continues on Wranglers getting finished before I start digging in deep with Silver Star. 

 

The YJ still needs some tub work and final assembly.  The TJ needs minor frame rust remediation and inner/outer frame painting.  The new JL has a Rubicon take-off suspension waiting to go on which will lift it around 1.5", which I'd like to get on before next winter.  My JK needs nothing, but I could always think of something...

 

I'm thinking at this point I'll be driving the MJ at least until the fall before I get to it.  I want it to get 100% of my focus.

 

Krypto, how did you diagnose the power steering pulley to be out of line and more importantly, how did you fix it? Thanks

[kryptronic]

7 hours ago, WahooSteeler said:

Krypto, how did you diagnose the power steering pulley to be out of line and more importantly, how did you fix it? Thanks

 

I could see the belt laying diagonally across the water pump pulley and traced that to the power steering pump pulley.  I removed the power steering pump pulley with a special puller, cleaned everything up then reinstalled the pulley on the shaft in the right spot.  In my case a bunch of gunk on the shaft was keeping the pulley from being installed far enough onto the shaft to get everything lined up.

[WahooSteeler]

5 hours ago, kryptronic said:

 

I could see the belt laying diagonally across the water pump pulley and traced that to the power steering pump pulley.  I removed the power steering pump pulley with a special puller, cleaned everything up then reinstalled the pulley on the shaft in the right spot.  In my case a bunch of gunk on the shaft was keeping the pulley from being installed far enough onto the shaft to get everything lined up.

 

Interesting. I've eyeballed mine to see if it looks out of alignment and I don't see it. I have a very good eye for things out of square or linear alignment, and of course it still might be as I know it doesn't take much at all to throw it off......like your 1/16". I just ordered a Gatorback belt, hoping that finally does the trick.