Lurker and Gleaner New Guy

[90 work truck]

My name is Mark, Just wanted to take a minute and thank everybody for all their GREAT write ups.

 

 

I've always had Jeeps from Cj's XJ's Tjs etc etc.

Got my first MJ about 2 years ago, found this site and have been doing a lot of mods/upgrades (Thanks cruiser!)

So I've been Lurking and Learning, Gleaning (ok creatively acquiring ok  ok  Stealing Ideas on what other folks have done.

 

One of the last upgrades was a lift from Dirk at DPG offroad (found out about him here) and is my new favorite online supplier!

When I'm able to post in classified I'll have a bunch of oe suspension parts CHEAP or FREE

 

I also need to figure out how hosting pics is done so I can get a picture of "Old Paint" on here

 

Thanks Again,

Mark

P.S. if you can't tell, never belonged to a forum before

[Dzimm]

My name is Mark, Just wanted to take a minute and thank everybody for all their GREAT write ups.

 

 

I've always had Jeeps from Cj's XJ's Tjs etc etc.

Got my first MJ about 2 years ago, found this site and have been doing a lot of mods/upgrades (Thanks cruiser!)

So I've been Lurking and Learning, Gleaning (ok creatively acquiring ok ok Stealing Ideas on what other folks have done.

 

One of the last upgrades was a lift from Dirk at DPG offroad (found out about him here) and is my new favorite online supplier!

When I'm able to post in classified I'll have a bunch of oe suspension parts CHEAP or FREE

 

I also need to figure out how hosting pics is done so I can get a picture of "Old Paint" on here

 

Thanks Again,

Mark

P.S. if you can't tell, never belonged to a forum before

Welcome aboard! To post pictures you have to use a hosting site or Tapatalk on mobile. Visit the "forum probems" section for a writeup on posting pictures.

[90 work truck]

Thanks, will do

[cruiser54]

Welcome Mark. 

[90 work truck]

Thanks Much Cruiser

I'd like to run an issue by you all(maybe I Should switch to DIY or tech ?)

My "old paint" won't get warm enough, engine temp or heat, I've flushed the system for probably the 6th time in 2years just did the Preston, CLR vinegar.

 

Just changed thermostat to 195 degree Mopar, (tested first) works great, I was hoping when I pulled the old one I'd find it stuck open, no chance stuck closed on the stove would open 1/16-1/8

 

Water pump seems fine plenty of flow in the Mac's alum pressure bottle, and I get a surge after scrunching upper rad. Hose.

 

After running in drive way for a 1/2 hour the outside of the pressure bottle only. Shows 188 degree and the air from register 101 thought I read heat from register should be 144?

Pointing laser at block between plugs is 160ish? After 1/2 hour. My laser is new a Milwaukee tool and works well on other known items

I'm using a laser thermometer(have idiot lights) was hoping could get it running closer to standard, my searches here show 210, that that would be better for the engine and the mpg and my toes!!

 

Heater core is squeaky clean, I'm afraid to try to break free the sender/sensor that I'd break it off so I've been burping system by. Watching in pressure bottle as cools down and filling to 1/2 any thoughts?

[cruiser54]

Thanks Much Cruiser

I'd like to run an issue by you all(maybe I Should switch to DIY or tech ?)

My "old paint" won't get warm enough, engine temp or heat, I've flushed the system for probably the 6th time in 2years just did the Preston, CLR vinegar.

 

Just changed thermostat to 195 degree Mopar, (tested first) works great, I was hoping when I pulled the old one I'd find it stuck open, no chance stuck closed on the stove would open 1/16-1/8

 

Water pump seems fine plenty of flow in the Mac's alum pressure bottle, and I get a surge after scrunching upper rad. Hose.

 

After running in drive way for a 1/2 hour the outside of the pressure bottle only. Shows 188 degree and the air from register 101 thought I read heat from register should be 144?

Pointing laser at block between plugs is 160ish? After 1/2 hour. My laser is new a Milwaukee tool and works well on other known items

I'm using a laser thermometer(have idiot lights) was hoping could get it running closer to standard, my searches here show 210, that that would be better for the engine and the mpg and my toes!!

 

Heater core is squeaky clean, I'm afraid to try to break free the sender/sensor that I'd break it off so I've been burping system by. Watching in pressure bottle as cools down and filling to 1/2 any thoughts?

Go drive it.

[90 work truck]

Will do,Thanks

[90 work truck]

Cruiser took your advice, took it out on the interstate for 1/2 hour, I do most of my driving in town rarely get it over 40 mph, helped some, got back in town (Racine,WI) pretty flat here, but found a hill as I went up the hill w/laser. Thermo pointed at heat vent would climb to 120s then when I got level or went down hill would go back to 110-115. Popped hood and was getting 185-190 ish on the outside of the Macs pressure bottle..

 

Above tells me I had air, I was concerned about torturing the idiot light sender, but got it ok( I didn't notice before I unscrewed it, but tightening it back up I have a gap of 3-5 threads between shoulder of sender and the block is that normal?) its not leaking and I don't want to snap it..

 

Bleeding the air helped a lot, but I still wasn't running hot enough to open stat, put some backing over 2/3 of the radiator (40 degree ambient temp today) That helped a lot as well.

 

I was getting 196 w/thermometer. At the thermostat housing 125-130 at heater vent. (These are all Idling in my driveway)

 

Then I had a thought.. .. . If blocking 2/3 of radiator helped what about the hood being open DUH closed the hood and watched the cab heat vent climb to 144 and stay, popped the hood and took temp at thermostat housing 210 degrees. 205 at Pressure bottle. Going to keep an eye on with Laser thermometer, any recommendation on accurate after market gauges?

My local advance auto has a 3 gauge cluster for $33.00 but I don't want junk, and not interested in doing the XJ swap.

[Pete M]

tech Qs should indeed go in Tech.   :thumbsup:

 

welcome to the addiction!

[cruiser54]

Cruiser took your advice, took it out on the interstate for 1/2 hour, I do most of my driving in town rarely get it over 40 mph, helped some, got back in town (Racine,WI) pretty flat here, but found a hill as I went up the hill w/laser. Thermo pointed at heat vent would climb to 120s then when I got level or went down hill would go back to 110-115. Popped hood and was getting 185-190 ish on the outside of the Macs pressure bottle..

 

Above tells me I had air, I was concerned about torturing the idiot light sender, but got it ok( I didn't notice before I unscrewed it, but tightening it back up I have a gap of 3-5 threads between shoulder of sender and the block is that normal?) its not leaking and I don't want to snap it..

 

Bleeding the air helped a lot, but I still wasn't running hot enough to open stat, put some backing over 2/3 of the radiator (40 degree ambient temp today) That helped a lot as well.

 

I was getting 196 w/thermometer. At the thermostat housing 125-130 at heater vent. (These are all Idling in my driveway)

 

Then I had a thought.. .. . If blocking 2/3 of radiator helped what about the hood being open DUH closed the hood and watched the cab heat vent climb to 144 and stay, popped the hood and took temp at thermostat housing 210 degrees. 205 at Pressure bottle. Going to keep an eye on with Laser thermometer, any recommendation on accurate after market gauges?

My local advance auto has a 3 gauge cluster for $33.00 but I don't want junk, and not interested in doing the XJ swap.

Cluster swap is very easy.......

[90 work truck]

I was under the impression after market gauges might be more accurate?

Any thoughts on having a few threads proud of the block on sender being normal? Seems tight and don't want to snap it off, don't leak, don't know if having the actual 1/8-3/16 up would affect idiot light

[cruiser54]

I was under the impression after market gauges might be more accurate?

Any thoughts on having a few threads proud of the block on sender being normal? Seems tight and don't want to snap it off, don't leak, don't know if having the actual 1/8-3/16 up would affect idiot light

Tapered pipe threads are supposed to be that way.

No leaky, that's just fine and will not affect performance in any way, shape, or form.

 

As for accuracy, who knows how accurate some cheapie chinese made gauges are gonna be?

 

I think you need to install a factory thermostat if you haven't already. 

[90 work truck]

Mopar 195 is in all is good, will keep an eye on it

Thanks much

[Minuit]

Perhaps I'm in the minority, but if you're getting 196 on the thermostat housing and your heater makes warm air I think you're good to go. Thermostat temperature is the ideal condition IMO. A temp of 196 indicates that your thermostat is doing its job and regulating the coolant temperature. My '91 runs at a steady 195-205, and the temp gauge (with Mopar sender - that's the key if you want it to be accurate) covers up the "2" in 210 at all times. To be sure, go for a drive and see if it's still at about 196 when you come back.

 

A stuck open thermostat would cause it to run WAY cool. A family member recently had a thermostat stick open and the highest it would warm up to was about 150 at the upper hose after idling for almost an hour, and what little heat it had when idling went away when moving.

 

I also think that swapping in a factory cluster is the best way to go - as long as you're willing to track down Mopar gauge senders. The aftermarket temp senders especially are garbage.

[90 work truck]

Thanks

[DirtyComanche]

Good aftermarket gauges are fine, if anything they're a little more accurate than you need. Cheap ones are not. The factory ones are plenty good though and can be had for relatively little money.