Dzimm Posted June 22, 2017 Author Share Posted June 22, 2017 So I got some time to get the flexplate changed out. I pulled the trans on Tuesday and got the plates changed. I did break the TV cable in the process but a new one is on the way. The job was made much easier thanks to my new impact from Amazon. I was a little worried it wasn't going to be as good as it said it was but I was mistaken. This thing is amazing. Popped lug nuts off no problem and didn't even sweat over the flexplate bolts. It's rated at 240 lbs and honestly, I could see it doing around 200 no problem. I just wish it was a little shorter. For anyone without an air compressor, this is a great option without breaking the bank. Today I spent my time reinstalling the trans. I've got it up to within ~1/8" of flush with the block. It is going much smoother than the first time I installed it but I'm doing it solo this time so it's much more tedious. Tomorrow hopefully I'll get it aligned just right so it will slide on all the way. Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ComancheCrusher9800 Posted June 23, 2017 Share Posted June 23, 2017 Man this is a nice thread Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted June 23, 2017 Author Share Posted June 23, 2017 Man this is a nice thread Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk Thanks! There's plenty more to come. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ComancheCrusher9800 Posted June 23, 2017 Share Posted June 23, 2017 That's some stuff I want to do one day Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted June 24, 2017 Author Share Posted June 24, 2017 Ok so I have officially decided that it is impossible to get the torque converter completely seated with only 1 set of hands. If anyone wants to come out this weekend and help me get this damn trans installed I'm offering cold beer and various flavors of deer brat and deer dogs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted June 24, 2017 Author Share Posted June 24, 2017 Well the trans is finally back in. I ended up taking it completely out and pulling the TC back out and starting completely over. It all went back together without issue and is now in place. Tomorrow I will be pulling the pan to hook up the new TV cable and starting it up! I did get a little side tracked and installed the cowl intake. It definitely is made for 91+ Jeeps but I made it work. The cowl is slightly different in the years before 91 so the filter doesn't exactly fit. I was able to get it to fit well enough and it should work just fine. All I have left to do is put the bolts in the black shroud on the firewall and maybe paint the stainless. Not sure I like it in there. Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted June 25, 2017 Author Share Posted June 25, 2017 Got the new TV cable installed and finished mounting the cowl intake bracket. Turned the key over and it started right up. Idles a little rough and occasionally backfires out the exhaust but it finally idles! My spark plugs are completely black and probably fouled due to the engine not firing correctly with the Renix flexplate. I need to change the oil again since there is still some fuel in it, and get some new plugs and it should be good. I ran it for about 5 mins today and it smoothed out quite a bit over that time and didn't throw any codes, so that's good. It sounds really good too. The cowl intake is a little louder than I expected but that's okay with me. The exhaust is fairly quiet but has a nice throaty sound to it. I would have run it longer but I don't want to start destroying things with the thin oil. If I have time tomorrow I will change the plugs and oil. I also started on some body work. Cleaned up the drivers side of the bed and used a wire wheel to get the factory decals off. I found some small holes hidden under the paint and decals where it started rusting so I'm gonna have to take this truck down to factory primer and bare metal to find and fix all the tiny rust holes and to get an even coat of paint since there is so many layers of primer/paint already on it. Sometime this week I need to get my driveshaft to the shop to be shortened so I can install that, along with doing axle services so I can get this thing on the road. I'm hoping to drive it by this weekend but well see if I have enough time throughout the week. I am building a computer for a friend later in the week so that will eat up at least a day or two getting that all set up for her. I will get some more progress pictures and hopefully a video of it moving under its own power soon! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted June 27, 2017 Author Share Posted June 27, 2017 Success! The plugs did the trick. It runs super smooth, doesn't make any bad sounds, and the only code that showed up after 30 mins was for the lower O2 sensor that I am not using. There is a small oil leak that I think is coming from the oil filter area that I need to investigate. Here is a video of the truck running. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=exZtL75aM1M It sounds a little "ticky" in the video but it doesn't sound that way in person. It also got much quieter under the hood after the electric fan and fan shroud were installed. I like that the exhaust isn't super loud but it does have a nice grumble to it. The cowl intake is a little louder than I thought it would be but I don't mind. I also changed the oil and serviced the rear axle. Looks pretty good in there but it would look better with a locker.... I had to modify the fan shroud to fit on the lower bracket. I could have modified that bracket but it was much easier to just cut the shroud. The holes are a little bigger than I needed, but it will work just fine. Here is a picture of the engine bay mostly put together. There will be a second fuse box where the can of Seafoam is, to run all the accessories, and a second battery where the stock airbox used to sit. I still have to hook up the heater core and finish installing the A/C components as well. I am going to Dynamic Drivelines in Des Moines tomorrow after work to drop off my driveshafts. The rear one needs to be cut down a few inches and I am just going to have them do all the u-joints on both the front and rear while they have it. Here is the measurements for my rear shaft if anyone is curious. Its with a 4.0, AW4, and C8.25. I am hoping the shafts will be done so I can pick them up after work on Wednesday, but well see. The computer parts will be showing up Wednesday though so I will have to get that computer together and running before I can install the shafts. Once the shafts are in, I get the NSS adjusted properly, and I convince the girlfriend to help bleed the brakes, I can drive this thing out of the shed! SO EXCITING! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted June 30, 2017 Share Posted June 30, 2017 Does that THOR intake use a 'regular' oiled cone filter? Is it going to rub the crap out of the valve cover, or is there something to stop that? It looks like it will since it only flexes at the throttle body end? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted June 30, 2017 Author Share Posted June 30, 2017 Does that THOR intake use a 'regular' oiled cone filter? Is it going to rub the crap out of the valve cover, or is there something to stop that? It looks like it will since it only flexes at the throttle body end?Yeah it's just a regular oiled cone filter. As far as the rubbing, it does contact the drivers side of the valve cover. It may be able to be adjusted by moving the boot up slightly on the throttle body, which I will probably do. If that doesn't work, I'll probably put a small dent in the tube over the valve cover to avoid it. It wouldn't take much "adjustment" to make it clear of the cover. Your mileage may very though, I have BD rubber engine mounts and this intake is marketed for 91+ and mine is a 90. The difference is in the cowl but it may play a factor since I had to rotate the tube upward slightly at the cowl. It seems as though the cowl on the newer trucks is slightly deeper on the bottom, which allows more room for the filter. I made it work but it is extremely tight getting that filter in and out. Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted July 11, 2017 Author Share Posted July 11, 2017 Finally got some time to post on the thread. Friday I went and picked up my driveshafts, and wow did he do a good job. Painted and everything. He even threw in 2 sets of ubolt style straps for free. On Saturday a buddy and I got the rear shaft installed, bled the brakes, and spent an hour adjusting my nss and throwing the one on from my white XJ before realizing my shift linkage was off by a gear.... Fixed that and then took her for a spin! First trip was down the lane and back. It seemed good so I swapped the wheels from the white XJ and went in to town get gas. Filled the whole tank up and have no leaks there. I did discover a small oil leak coming from the pressure sensor adapter but I believe I got that fixed. The only problems now is a leaky bleeder screw on the drivers front, and I had to pull the driveshaft back out to be shortened another inch. It was just short enough to work but too close to the tcase for comfort. I fear that if I bottomed the truck out it would slam into the tcase. I may need to install my tcase drop because I do have some slight vibes at about 30 mph but that may change after the shaft is the proper length. I'm really happy with the truck overall. It drives great, it's gone 40 miles so far and up to 65 mph with no death wobble and the alignment isn't too bad surprisingly. Only CEL is for the lower O2 sensor that I don't have. On Sunday I got the evap canister installed as well as the door speakers. I ordered my paint last night and that should be here on the 22nd. I'm still trying to figure out what to do for flares. I want flats but don't really want to spend the $400 on a set that only kinda fit in the rear. I found a thread about using Avek pvc board and they turned out really good but I can't find anyone who has it anywhere near me, so that's still up in the air. As for tires, I'll be running these until I save enough money to get both this and the Commander new ones. On this I'll be running 33x10.5r15 BFG ATs. Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted July 14, 2017 Author Share Posted July 14, 2017 Small update. The oil leak is fixed and it currently doesnt leak anything! The bleeder screw also seems to have stopped leaking but I'll keep and eye on that. The driveshaft is now the proper length and installed for good. I still need to install the front shaft but I'll get to it this weekend probably. I found the source of my vibrations to be the exhaust hitting the crossmember. I jammed a piece of wood between the exhaust and body in front of the crossmember, then used my floor jack behind it to bend the exhaust just enough that it doesn't hit it. Eventually I'll weld the hanger on properly. My new wiring harness from Meanlemons should be here Saturday. Hopefully I'll have time to get that installed. It feels good now that I can just do the fun stuff to the truck rather than all the "necessary to be on the road" stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyluvv Posted July 14, 2017 Share Posted July 14, 2017 The truck is looking great! I would run some CAD brackets up front. It looks like the axle is pulled back a little bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted July 14, 2017 Author Share Posted July 14, 2017 The truck is looking great! I would run some CAD brackets up front. It looks like the axle is pulled back a little bit. Thanks! Yeah I do see that now that you pointed it out. Not sure of I want to run drop brackets or source longer arms. Ill have to do some more thinking on that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyluvv Posted July 14, 2017 Share Posted July 14, 2017 They make it ride a lot better. If you runs short arms, even longer than stock, it will ride rough. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted July 14, 2017 Author Share Posted July 14, 2017 They make it ride a lot better. If you runs short arms, even longer than stock, it will ride rough. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk This is good to know, thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted July 16, 2017 Author Share Posted July 16, 2017 Got some goodies yesterday and got them installed today. I got some sway bar links and the tools to install them. That went crappy since I didn't have a big enough socket to remove the pressed in bolts. I tried using a timing sprocket and a piece of metal to try to push it out with the C-clamps. I spent about an hour trying to get the bolts out and eventually realized the nuts I grabbed happened to be the right ones for the factory bolts.... I just threw those on and called it good. I also received my wiring kit from Meanlemons. He made me a regular XJ kit and a custom kit to run my dual battery setup as well as my second PDC. It's great quality and a very fair price. I don't have my second battery yet so I just hooked up the factory wiring and the second PDC for now. The last thing I did was installed the front driveshaft. I need to find different ubolt straps for the yoke because the set I have doesnt fit right. The side of the nuts lock up on the yoke before getting all the way seated. Anyone done the ubolt conversion on a Dana 30 yoke? What ubolts did you use? After finishing all the work, I walked out of the shed and noticed this... I think I'm developing a problem.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cody4359 Posted July 16, 2017 Share Posted July 16, 2017 coming along nicely, how'd your dakota tank skid work out? I've had that tank for a few years and have been planning on making a skid but never looked that hard Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted July 16, 2017 Author Share Posted July 16, 2017 coming along nicely, how'd your dakota tank skid work out? I've had that tank for a few years and have been planning on making a skid but never looked that hard Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk The skid I have is actually a factory MJ skid. It is shaped like a tub to fit around the entire tank. My plan is to cut one end and lay it flat to protect the entire length of the Dakota tank. I haven't even started with it yet so I can't really answer your question. Just from looking at my picture below, the left side will be to the rear of the truck and this is likely the side I'll cut and lay flat. The mounts will probably not reach the factory mounting holes so I'll just drill some holes and bolt it in. Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeeppapa Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 Got some goodies yesterday and got them installed today. I got some sway bar links and the tools to install them. That went crappy since I didn't have a big enough socket to remove the pressed in bolts. I tried using a timing sprocket and a piece of metal to try to push it out with the C-clamps. I spent about an hour trying to get the bolts out and eventually realized the nuts I grabbed happened to be the right ones for the factory bolts.... I just threw those on and called it good. I also received my wiring kit from Meanlemons. He made me a regular XJ kit and a custom kit to run my dual battery setup as well as my second PDC. It's great quality and a very fair price. I don't have my second battery yet so I just hooked up the factory wiring and the second PDC for now. The last thing I did was installed the front driveshaft. I need to find different ubolt straps for the yoke because the set I have doesnt fit right. The side of the nuts lock up on the yoke before getting all the way seated. Anyone done the ubolt conversion on a Dana 30 yoke? What ubolts did you use? After finishing all the work, I walked out of the shed and noticed this... I think I'm developing a problem.... Ya I think allot of us have that same problem. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted July 25, 2017 Author Share Posted July 25, 2017 Some more progress has been made. I finally received all the paint for the truck. I got 12 cans of primer sealer, 12 cans of automotive primer, 12 cans of Deep Blue automotive paint, and 12 cans of automotive clear coat for a total of 48 cans. I'm hoping to get my prep work done throughout this week and paint it this weekend but we'll see how that works out. I also got a new transmission line to replace my bent and spliced line. I unfortunately ordered the return line to the trans (Dorman part 624-354), instead of the line from the trans to radiator like I needed. I still made it work by making my own bends and cutting the rubber hose to go to my new auxiliary transmission cooler. I ordered an auxiliary cooler kit from Amazon. There is a picture below. It fits really well on the truck. I mounted it as far to the drivers side it could go with the lines coming out behind the drivers headlight. I decided to set it up on the hot side before the radiator. So my fluid path goes from the trans to the aux cooler, then into the radiator, and back to the trans. I did this because I wanted to keep the trans fluid warm in the cold winter months and also take some of the load off the radiator when the fluids are really hot in the summer months. I've also been thinking about what I am doing for the rest of my dual battery setup. I have kind of decided that I want a pair of D34M Optima blue top batteries. As for the trays, I am waiting to hear back from Dirt Bound Offroad to see if their Optima battery trays will fit this model of battery since it isn't listed on their website. I have also gotten a quote for 5 33x10.5xr15 BFG AT KO2s, mounted and balanced, as well as an alignment for right at $1250. Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted July 27, 2017 Author Share Posted July 27, 2017 Well today I started preparing for paint. I got the last bit of bondo I wanted to do on the drivers side done and got all the rough edges smoothed out and decals removed. This way when I go to do the paint job for real, I just have to sand everything with high grit sandpaper and start painting. I plan on doing this same thing to the passenger side tomorrow and on Friday start removing lights, bumpers, and the tailgate as well as get the shed cleaned up and ready to start painting on Saturday. I'm very excited! Last night I got some blue leds ordered to convert my dash lights to blue and I ordered the rocker switch I needed to finish my off road light install. These should be here the beginning of next week. Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silky Posted July 27, 2017 Share Posted July 27, 2017 Hey Dzimm, I recently purchased my own Comanche, and I was looking at possibly doing a 97+ front end clip and fender swap.. does it just bolt right on or do you have to drill different holes? I like your build page ! Keep up the good work! :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted July 27, 2017 Author Share Posted July 27, 2017 Hey Dzimm, I recently purchased my own Comanche, and I was looking at possibly doing a 97+ front end clip and fender swap.. does it just bolt right on or do you have to drill different holes? I like your build page ! Keep up the good work! :thumbsup: Thanks and welcome to the addiction! Yeah the fenders and front clip will bolt right up to the existing holes. The only modifications you have to do is to adapt the wiring on the 97+ clip to work with the MJ wiring. Below is a link with the wire colors that need spliced, coincidentally that thread was started by the PO of my truck when he first did the front clip swap. Your wire colors may differ slightly from what's there but it's a good starting point for you. Good luck with your swap and if you have any more questions, feel free to ask! http://comancheclub.com/topic/17155-adapting-mj-headlight-harness-to-97-xj-harness/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted July 27, 2017 Share Posted July 27, 2017 I'm curious how well the clear coat will come out over the Rustoleum. Does it produce a harder finish that way? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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