INjake89mj Posted October 4, 2016 Share Posted October 4, 2016 Getting everything together to get the Dana 44 under the 92 and ran into some questions. How do I tell if the clutches for the limited slip needs replaced? I haven't opened it up yet, so I don't know if there is any clutch material in the oil or not. I'm assuming this is the best way of knowing. My father-in-law has rebuilt a few limited slips for vettes, and he says that he uses a torque wrench on the axle shaft nut, with 1 tire in the air, and if the clutch slips at over 90ft lbs it is good (road racing applications). We do not have a way of measuring this correct? If we can measure this, at what ft lb torque should it slip at? The clutch kit is only ~$80 without spiders, but I just don't want to take the time and money to do it if it's not needed. Maybe I should just rebuild it for peace of mind and and chalk it up as a learning experience, but I though I would ask you guys first. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted October 4, 2016 Share Posted October 4, 2016 I had the clutch kit installed for peace of mind when I had mine regeared. You can get the kit for less tan $80 - do a search for Dana-Spicer 22233X. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted October 4, 2016 Share Posted October 4, 2016 If you don't want to do the clutch pack unless absolutely necessary, find some way to clamp the right wheel and the axle body so they can't turn. Find the socket that fits the nut on the end of the axle on the left side. Put a torque wrench on it and see how much torque it takes to turn the hub on the left side (if it turns, you've overcome the clutches). My recollection is that 25 foot-pounds or better is in-spec. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schardein Posted October 5, 2016 Share Posted October 5, 2016 If you don't want to do the clutch pack unless absolutely necessary, find some way to clamp the right wheel and the axle body so they can't turn. Find the socket that fits the nut on the end of the axle on the left side. Put a torque wrench on it and see how much torque it takes to turn the hub on the left side (if it turns, you've overcome the clutches). My recollection is that 25 foot-pounds or better is in-spec. I may be wrong, but both the Dana 35 and Dana 44 use one piece axle shafts I believe. No nut on the end of the axle, I don't think. Maybe you could use a lug nut? Not being centered, it would not be an accurate reading, unless that's the way the manual says to check it. INjake89mj, Also, this may not be a popular answer, but if you plan to do a lot of off roading, there are better choices for performance diffs and even though it's more money, if you have the axle apart maybe now is the time to do it. I'm guessing you are not planning for a lot of off road and budget is dictating use what you got. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marine1Texas Posted October 5, 2016 Share Posted October 5, 2016 You can always do the cheap locking both axles to gather by welding the spider gears. makes it a little harder to turn on the streets but you get good traction when your offroading Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted October 5, 2016 Share Posted October 5, 2016 I may be wrong, but both the Dana 35 and Dana 44 use one piece axle shafts I believe. No nut on the end of the axle, I don't think. You're not wrong. The only nuts on the axle are the lug nuts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
INjake89mj Posted October 5, 2016 Author Share Posted October 5, 2016 If you don't want to do the clutch pack unless absolutely necessary, find some way to clamp the right wheel and the axle body so they can't turn. Find the socket that fits the nut on the end of the axle on the left side. Put a torque wrench on it and see how much torque it takes to turn the hub on the left side (if it turns, you've overcome the clutches). My recollection is that 25 foot-pounds or better is in-spec. This is what I was after. Thank you, I didn't know what the in-spec breaking point would be. If you don't want to do the clutch pack unless absolutely necessary, find some way to clamp the right wheel and the axle body so they can't turn. Find the socket that fits the nut on the end of the axle on the left side. Put a torque wrench on it and see how much torque it takes to turn the hub on the left side (if it turns, you've overcome the clutches). My recollection is that 25 foot-pounds or better is in-spec. I may be wrong, but both the Dana 35 and Dana 44 use one piece axle shafts I believe. No nut on the end of the axle, I don't think. Maybe you could use a lug nut? Not being centered, it would not be an accurate reading, unless that's the way the manual says to check it. INjake89mj, Also, this may not be a popular answer, but if you plan to do a lot of off roading, there are better choices for performance diffs and even though it's more money, if you have the axle apart maybe now is the time to do it. I'm guessing you are not planning for a lot of off road and budget is dictating use what you got. You are correct they do not have a nut on the end of the axle, this is what makes it so hard to test. I would assume that the FSM would have a testing procedure? Maybe not. My "offroading" is going into the woods to get firewood, or trying to get to work when the snow is too deep. This truck is far from a wheeling rig, just a farm truck. I will more than likely just put the axle in the truck and see how it acts, if necessary I will pull the diff later, I just wanted to bench test all I could while I had this thing on the stand. thanks for the responses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yxmj Posted October 5, 2016 Share Posted October 5, 2016 Will this help? http://clubs.hemmings.com/potomacramblers/Tech%20Tips%20pdf_img/trak-lok_diff_5313-3.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
INjake89mj Posted October 5, 2016 Author Share Posted October 5, 2016 Will this help? http://clubs.hemmings.com/potomacramblers/Tech%20Tips%20pdf_img/trak-lok_diff_5313-3.pdf :bowdown: Printed and saved for future reference! Thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted October 5, 2016 Share Posted October 5, 2016 I may be wrong, but both the Dana 35 and Dana 44 use one piece axle shafts I believe. No nut on the end of the axle, I don't think. Maybe you could use a lug nut? Not being centered, it would not be an accurate reading, unless that's the way the manual says to check it. Right you are -- I keep forgetting that my '88 XJ is an AMC but it's not a Rambler. I believe the dealerships had a tool that bolted to three of the lug nuts with a nut in the center -- centered on the axle -- to attach the torque wrench for this test. Yes, you could do it with a lug nut, but you would have to allow for the offset. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
INjake89mj Posted October 6, 2016 Author Share Posted October 6, 2016 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted October 6, 2016 Share Posted October 6, 2016 SWEEEEEET! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1989 comanche mj Posted October 8, 2016 Share Posted October 8, 2016 It will probably need clutches, my 97 TJ did at less than 100k miles. Then the spider gears started chipping. With only 33 inch tires. I went with a truetrac differential. Its a weak carrier with tires larger than 31 inches. Yes my TJ came with a factory 44. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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