cvic90 Posted May 31, 2016 Share Posted May 31, 2016 I finally got around to putting the lift on at work today. Since we weren't busy anyway. I pieced it together because I wanted more than an add a leaf but wanted parts that I picked out. 3" Pro Comp front springs, Extended stainless brake lines, some older teraflex lower adjustable arms, Skyjacker M95 shocks and some S10 ZR2 crew cab rear leaf springs. I used all 3 leafs from the ZR2, just cutting the mounts off the mains. I added them to the MJ main and overload. I also replaced all the plastic leaf sliders. I got 3" in the front of course and 3.5" in the rear so far. Once its drivable again I'll flex it and load a bit to see how it settles. But, I'm really happy how it turned out. My front brake lines are weird and needed crush washers at the caliper banjo block so I quit for the day and went to orielly and found a crush washer kit. $13 later I had the 2 I needed and about 50 I don't. Decided since I was having to take another day for the lines, I'd go ahead and put my WJ Booster/Master cylinder and wilwood proportioning valve in also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benjy_26 Posted May 31, 2016 Share Posted May 31, 2016 Nice stance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted May 31, 2016 Share Posted May 31, 2016 I am curious as to how it rides as I would like to get about that much lift out of mine out back. right now my truck is nearly level and I am looking to lift the front another inch and the rears have been perplexing me up to this point as I don't want to drop more cash on new leaf springs when these are pretty new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvic90 Posted June 1, 2016 Author Share Posted June 1, 2016 I am curious as to how it rides as I would like to get about that much lift out of mine out back. right now my truck is nearly level and I am looking to lift the front another inch and the rears have been perplexing me up to this point as I don't want to drop more cash on new leaf springs when these are pretty new.I have barely more in the entire lift than a new set of military wrap lift leafs cost. I'm still working on the brakes right now so I'm not sure how it will ride. The shocks were most likely factory (and severely blown) so it will hopefully be a bit less floaty. I got the Wilwood prop valve, WJ booster and master cylinder in tonight. Bent the rear and passenger front lines to fit perfect. Had to make a new driver line for the valve since it was so much higher now. Just have to rebend the WJ master cylinder lines to the prop valve, cut and add fittings and flare the ends then bleed the system. It will be slightly easier to bleed when I end up putting the WJ calipers on in a few months. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvic90 Posted June 1, 2016 Author Share Posted June 1, 2016 It's back on the road finally. Turned out fairly nice I think. It rides very firm, it soaks up big dips and small bumps very well though. It drives a lot better now. And when I get out I don't have to stand up now, I just slide out. It's just the right height so far. The rear is about 1.5" higher than the front. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dustyinthedirt Posted June 3, 2016 Share Posted June 3, 2016 was the brake coversion very hard? been thinking of doing this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvic90 Posted June 3, 2016 Author Share Posted June 3, 2016 was the brake coversion very hard? been thinking of doing thisI had already bypassed the rear load prop valve because it didn't work and I had no rear fluid flow at all. The wj booster requires some slight work to install mainly a cutoff wheel to trim some of the bracing on the firewall. There wasn't room for my clutch line so I bent it to go over the booster and trim the lip above the booster. I did have to open up the bottom half of the firewall hole for the booster to fit into it. I read this thread about it. http://comancheclub.com/topic/24430-wj-booster-and-master-cylinder-upgrade/ I used a wilwood adjustable proportioning valve. I removed the old return line for the rear load valve and cut it up for a driver side hard line and was able to cut and re-bend the wj master cylinder lines to reach the prop valve. Just make sure you get the hardware with the booster and master cylinder. They are different. I didn't have any but it's the same as most Honda bolts so I had plenty of extra laying around. Brake pedal feel is much better now. I just have to get the prop valve adjusted properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted June 3, 2016 Share Posted June 3, 2016 Did you go with some used S10 leafs? I noticed even new ones are pretty darn cheap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dustyinthedirt Posted June 3, 2016 Share Posted June 3, 2016 Thanks for the info! sweet rig! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvic90 Posted June 4, 2016 Author Share Posted June 4, 2016 Did you go with some used S10 leafs? I noticed even new ones are pretty darn cheap. Yes. I bought some used ones for $120 off eBay. Couldn't find enough info on new ones to be sure I was getting the right ones at the time so I just went with what I found. Not a decent u pull it close enough to me to go look either. Have to be the ZR2 springs though. They have significantly more arch. And if you use the shim spacers the s10 has you can adjust the height down maybe 1/2". I didn't have a long enough centering bolt so I left the shims out. I want to load it and drive it around some to see if it will settle any when I get new driveshaft joints installed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvic90 Posted June 13, 2016 Author Share Posted June 13, 2016 Made trip to a friend's 1.5 hour away to pick up a 94 4.0 HO w/ ax15 external slave 4x4 Trans from a wrangler. Rode great with and without a load at 70mph. Not sure if I can use them yet, it came with all 3 aftermarket mounts, plus new clutch, water pump, thermostat, alternator all done in last 500 miles. Exhaust manifold is cracked but I'll just get a header. Has anyone tried to use wrangler clutch master/slave cylinder set in a cherokee? I'm on my 2nd clutch master in the last week and it's annoying me greatly. It was great then yesterday it dropped to half pedal and I can pump the free travel and the pedal comes up. I'm afraid it's pulling air in from the cab area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireManDango Posted June 25, 2016 Share Posted June 25, 2016 Slap an ax15 in there. I have the same problem with my clutch and actually will be going to auto once I can find a tf999 or 32rh. That would be the way to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvic90 Posted June 27, 2016 Author Share Posted June 27, 2016 I have a 94 4.0 ho with a lunati cam and external slave 4wd ax15 Trans, new clutch, 242 with sye kit I'm going to install. But I don't have the money for a rear drive shaft and master slave parts right now since I'm working on getting the a/c going first right now. I'll probably change the slave out til I'm ready. Pedal changes every time temperature changes. Weirdest thing I've dealt with on a clutch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvic90 Posted July 9, 2016 Author Share Posted July 9, 2016 Got my A/C finally working today. Pulled and cleaned all the parts, replaced the expansion valve,new oil, and put on a compressor, lines and bracket from my 91 Briarwood xj. Good clean r134 system running cold now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvic90 Posted March 3, 2017 Author Share Posted March 3, 2017 The upper radiator hose and heater valve blew out in the Comanche while my brother was towing his xj home. So I got to swap in my open system I had laying around. Moved the coil and relays for the overflow to fit in the stock location over the spring mount. Now I've got all new hoses, pump, heater valve and thermostat. Meant to do it before it blew out but it's on now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A-man930 Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 Nice build dude. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comancheel Posted March 9, 2017 Share Posted March 9, 2017 What year of zr2 springs? And does it matter if it's crewcab or not? I've been searching for a alternative to add a leaf. Or spacer lifts for a long time. I found a set of zr2 springs, brand new for 200 each Canadian. The spring company says they are same width at 2.5inch but about a inch shorter. I'm hoping with these shackles I got that it won't matter. Also was gonna do a axle flip for lots of lift :) Any body have any luck, good or bad doin something like this? Also havnt figured out the front yet. I was originally gonna just axle flip and go zj springs with spacers till.i seen this thread. Now.i have hope.i.can go bigger in the front and not have a $#!&ty rear lift tryin gn to keep rideheight. The truck is pretty stock still. I'm stockpiling parts for a sb350 swap.mating to the ax15. Almost got.everything except a clutch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvic90 Posted June 13, 2017 Author Share Posted June 13, 2017 Got my zr2 springs from a 2002 crew cab I believe. Used Comanche main, cut the mounts off the zr2 main, pulled the leaf spacers and used all the zr2 pack with the Comanche overload. Really got about 3.5" staying spring under. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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