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rim size for 33x12.50R15


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NO less than an 8in wide with min. 3.5 back spacing

 

anyway u look at it ur gona have to trim so deal with it jamminz.gif

 

well, the plan is TJ flares so hopefully i can make it work with that.

 

minimal of 3.5" back spacing? i don't understand how backspacing works, care to shed some light?

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Stock BS is 5.25". Wheels of the same width with 3.75" BS will put the stock width tire 1.5" out further.

 

And an 8" wide wheel would be good. Go too much wider and when you air way down, you'll start busting beads.

 

I'd go with a 15" diameter for a 33x12.5R15.

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hey whats with the tj flair setup, i see alot of guys doin it but I

 

think it looks realy stupid , the lines don't mach up at all no matter what

 

angle u look at it . why not go with the bushwacker flairs at least they

 

match , sure they cost quite a bit more but at least it won't look realy

 

stupid in the end .

 

am i the only one that notices this or what ?

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Stock BS is 5.25". Wheels of the same width with 3.75" BS will put the stock width tire 1.5" out further.

 

And an 8" wide wheel would be good. Go too much wider and when you air way down, you'll start busting beads.

 

I'd go with a 15" diameter for a 33x12.5R15.

 

smart-@$$ ;) i knew the 15" dia. part :D

 

9" is what i'm gonna do for rims i think, if it's available. possibly 10's. like i said, it's my DD too so i want the tires to wear evenly without constant pressure checks (in my dreams right?)

 

anyone suggest a cheap steel rim?

 

figure on 4" bs and TJ flares with a 6.5" or 7" lift will allow for good operatioin

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Yeah, the narrow wheel is kind of a wheeling thing for airing down. I don't know much about road use with width.

 

I like my Cragars very much:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

 

The center caps are sold seperate but make the wheel.

As well, that's the best new price I could find on any Soft 8 styled wheels.

 

If you call, you could probably get them with 3.5" BS and 9 or 10" wide if that's what you want.

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cragars are about the cheapest steel wheel you can find.

 

Since you're all about the anti trim, have you considered 33x10.5's?

BFG makes those in MT and AT.

Those on some rims with about 4" of BS should tuck into the fender.

 

with 15x8's and 3.75" of backspacing, my 34's tuck underneath the fender, this was at 3" of lift.

So, figure in your extra lift and you shouldn't have to trim anything.

 

Besides, skinny is cool :)

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I'm looking to run the same wheel size here. The only trimming you need to do is on the front fender (the rear wheel well is a large enough opening). Once you get the tire on, jack it up, see where it rubs, trim as needed, also you can adjust your bumpstops to limit travel so it doesnt contact sheet metal. For a DD thats no big deal, you won't need mad flex on a DD. I am looking to go with a 15x10 with 3.75 back spacing. Thats fairly common backspacing with any aftermarket rim. I plan on black street locks with a all terrain of some sort. I will be lifted approx 5", maybe closer to 5.5". You can check my pics in the project forum here, it shows how my lower front fender is trimmed some already, I don't plan on doing much more. I am redoing the front lift thats in it now, switching to a long arm set up (probably TNT), should level it out to match the SOA in the rear.

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I recommend an 8" wide rim with 3.5-4" of backspacing and a 33x10.5" tire. A 12.5" wide tire is reeealy wide for our little wheelwells and a 10" wide rim pushes the tire out even further and that's not a good thing for your fenders.

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cragars are about the cheapest steel wheel you can find.

 

Since you're all about the anti trim, have you considered 33x10.5's?

BFG makes those in MT and AT.

Those on some rims with about 4" of BS should tuck into the fender.

 

with 15x8's and 3.75" of backspacing, my 34's tuck underneath the fender, this was at 3" of lift.

So, figure in your extra lift and you shouldn't have to trim anything.

 

Besides, skinny is cool :)

 

I considered what I could get new for cheap...I HAVE 33x12.50's with 95% tread left that I got for $200. refuse to pass up that deal so they're mine now and that's what I got to work with...any money I have is going towards lifting this sucker and paying for it.

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I recommend an 8" wide rim with 3.5-4" of backspacing and a 33x10.5" tire. A 12.5" wide tire is reeealy wide for our little wheelwells and a 10" wide rim pushes the tire out even further and that's not a good thing for your fenders.

 

I already have the tires cause they are nice and cheap, so them are what i'm goin with.

 

9" rim is what I'll do as that seems to be a compromise between 10 and 8 for road and off-road driving.

 

this is a offroad truck that will be street-driven in the winter and bad weather, the 3800 is for nice weather (no more salt desired on that truck)

 

SO I am gonna be chopping the front fender like the 98 xj's, and putting 4 TJ rear flares on the truck...I already have two. when I do that, i will trim both front and rear flares as much as possible. making ridiculous bumpstops isn't really an option i think b/c it's gotta flex. hence the desired 6.5" of lift. it's dana 44 rear so with the stock 4wd springs and spring-over, i figure about 6" of lift there, meaning 6.5 to 7 in front to even it out. gonna build my own lower control arms (longarm style) and remove stock lower mounts, then temporarily at least, i will be running some normal adjustable UCA's with 6.5" springs, an adjustable track bar, home-made sway bar disconnects (stock trackbar location is desired to retain the skid plate), some YJ front brake lines (I hope), and a dodge dakota rear brake line (I hope).

ebrake will be modified to function, and I will probably have to get an SYE and longer driveshaft OR drop the tranny (it's a swb) to make this work out correctly.

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That's probably the worst reason to use something. Just because you have it lying around, doesn't mean it's what you should use. If you really don't want to cut or smash your fenders, then that should take priority over using something that you happened to get a deal on. Sell the tires and put that towards a better fitting, better working set. With any luck you might gain money in the process. :D

I run 33x12.5s because I don't care about my fenders at all, and I have the cut, smashed, and now rusty fenders to prove it. Not to mention that my tires have suffered several deep cuts in the tread from their fights with the sheetmetal. I don't recommend them.

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That's probably the worst reason to use something. Just because you have it lying around, doesn't mean it's what you should use. If you really don't want to cut or smash your fenders, then that should take priority over using something that you happened to get a deal on. Sell the tires and put that towards a better fitting, better working set. With any luck you might gain money in the process. :D

I run 33x12.5s because I don't care about my fenders at all, and I have the cut, smashed, and now rusty fenders to prove it. Not to mention that my tires have suffered several deep cuts in the tread from their fights with the sheetmetal. I don't recommend them.

 

yeah, idk how much I'd gain in the process though? and I really like the 33x12.50 look. I wanted TJ rear flares all around anyways...and my truck is gonna be higher than yours, so i figure I'll give it a try, and if it decides not to work, i'll run it on the road til they wear, and buy the right ones, OR i'll sell them. either way, right now, these tires are what i'll be running in the badlands in august...

 

basically, I just don't have money to spend on new tires right now. I really wanted 11.50s but these will do. after looking at my rear flares (and the un-apparent rust underneath), they're getting cut out anyways. plus the front fenders are replaceable if i ever decide to go back to stock fenders.

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Well, it sounds like you mind is set regardless of our responses.

 

But I'll add mine anyhow. :D I agree with Pete. He is spot on with his explanations and reasoning.

 

One other thing that wasn't really mentioned was the much increased weight, leverage of such a wide tire/rim combination. You will end up with much accelerated wear on all parts.

 

In case you haven't noticed, I change tire ALLOT. I have had almost every conceivable combo on my MJ with many different heights and fenders trimmed and not trimmed, many different BS combos with different lifts and widths. Check out my mods thread..its in there!!

 

I recently swapped some new to me wheeling tires. 33X9.5's MT's on factory 7" alum rims W/5.25 BS. I was running 33X10.5 AT's on 15X8 AR alum W/3.75 BS. Even thou its MT to AT comparison, the 9.5's run WAY smoother!!! I think its due to the BS and less leverage. I am swapping the 15X8 rims W/3.75 BS with another set of 15X7 W/4" BS. Net result 1.25" LESS sticking out compared to same tire on 8" rim. Minute changes, yes. but I feel them BIG time in the way my MJ drives.

 

Just to reiterate my opinion, 33X12.5 are too wide, for MJ's & XJ's. If you must use them, go with a 8" wide rim with no LESS THAN 4" of BS. If your staying short arm, you are going to need to trim.

 

Good luck,

CW

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your points are well-taken and I will consider them...but for now, this is what I can do. I have 15x8's so that's what I'll run for now, i just don't want it to round the tread, and also don't wish to run too low of pressure as i hate feeling bouncy.

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Well, it sounds like you mind is set regardless of our responses.

 

But I'll add mine anyhow. :D I agree with Pete. He is spot on with his explanations and reasoning.

 

One other thing that wasn't really mentioned was the much increased weight, leverage of such a wide tire/rim combination. You will end up with much accelerated wear on all parts.

 

In case you haven't noticed, I change tire ALLOT. I have had almost every conceivable combo on my MJ with many different heights and fenders trimmed and not trimmed, many different BS combos with different lifts and widths. Check out my mods thread..its in there!!

 

I recently swapped some new to me wheeling tires. 33X9.5's MT's on factory 7" alum rims W/5.25 BS. I was running 33X10.5 AT's on 15X8 AR alum W/3.75 BS. Even thou its MT to AT comparison, the 9.5's run WAY smoother!!! I think its due to the BS and less leverage. I am swapping the 15X8 rims W/3.75 BS with another set of 15X7 W/4" BS. Net result 1.25" LESS sticking out compared to same tire on 8" rim. Minute changes, yes. but I feel them BIG time in the way my MJ drives.

 

Just to reiterate my opinion, 33X12.5 are too wide, for MJ's & XJ's. If you must use them, go with a 8" wide rim with no LESS THAN 4" of BS. If your staying short arm, you are going to need to trim.

 

Good luck,

CW

those 33x9.5 BFGs?

it's not a poular size.

I really like my 34x9.5 swampers, and I think I'll like them even more once they're on the new 15x7's.

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