JeepFanactic Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 I have a 1987 MJ 2wd 5 spd while shifting gears the clutch pedal stayed on the floor and does not come back up. There is no leaking clutch fluid anywhere. Could this be the internal slave? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yxmj Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 No pedal to the floor means the piston in the master did not return....a healthy master will return even with no fluid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tugalo Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 could mean that the pedal has sheared off the actuating shaft, happened to me in traffic. Quick welding job and done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yxmj Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 Could be....but if the linkage was disconnected (or broken)...wouldn't the pedal be hanging there loose instead of being stuck to the floor :dunno: ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tugalo Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 pretty easy to check Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepFanactic Posted February 24, 2016 Author Share Posted February 24, 2016 No pedal to the floor means the piston in the master did not return....a healthy master will return even with no fluid It doesn't look to difficult to change but where would you bleed the fluid from? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yxmj Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 The master is not hard to change...remove the linkage under the dash....then it is 2 nuts and the line going in...done.....I do not understand the bleed question...are you asking how to bleed the clutch? If that is what you are asking look at your bell housing on the passenger side...there will be a tube with a little fitting on it that looks and operates just like a brake bleeder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COMJNUT Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 could mean that the pedal has sheared off the actuating shaft, happened to me in traffic. Quick welding job and done. That is what mine did, check out my build thread for pics. The master is not hard to change...remove the linkage under the dash....then it is 2 nuts and the line going in...done.....I do not understand the bleed question...are you asking how to bleed the clutch? If that is what you are asking look at your bell housing on the passenger side...there will be a tube with a little fitting on it that looks and operates just like a brake bleeder. Yup Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepFanactic Posted February 27, 2016 Author Share Posted February 27, 2016 I changed the master out and the clutch pedal still feels loose and not engaging. Could IT be that I didnt bleed it right or something else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted February 27, 2016 Share Posted February 27, 2016 You should bleed the full system through the slave cylinder, which should have a bleed nipple on the body. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepFanactic Posted February 27, 2016 Author Share Posted February 27, 2016 You should bleed the full system through the slave cylinder, which should have a bleed nipple on the body. I bleed it using the lines on the bell housing. Where is the nipple on the body? How do you bleed it through the slave cylinder? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yxmj Posted February 27, 2016 Share Posted February 27, 2016 Can you describe the process you are following to bleed?.....If you are using the bleed nipple on the passenger side like you say that is correct......but what is the method you are using to bleed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted February 27, 2016 Share Posted February 27, 2016 I bled the master cylinder first at the fitting, bench bleeding it. Then let it gravity bleed through the slave for 10-15 Min's (about 1/2 cup or less of old fluid. Then bled the system normally at the Bell fitting. When my pedal hit the floor it was a broken return spring in the master. Snapped in half internally. During the repair, I noticed it looks like the PO had the pedal assembly repaired due to a broken pedal at some point as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted February 27, 2016 Share Posted February 27, 2016 You should bleed the full system through the slave cylinder, which should have a bleed nipple on the body. I bleed it using the lines on the bell housing. Where is the nipple on the body? How do you bleed it through the slave cylinder? If you have an internal slave then it would be the lines you mention, so yea. Did you bleed a good amount of fluid through? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepFanactic Posted February 28, 2016 Author Share Posted February 28, 2016 Ok. while trying to bleed the master the pedal assembly broke off at the top. Whats the best way to get this fixed? Do you have to take the whole assembly out? This is driving me nuts. I wish I would of gotten an automatic instead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yxmj Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 Look above....COMJNUT gives you a link to a build that shows the fix Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COMJNUT Posted February 29, 2016 Share Posted February 29, 2016 for a single use one man bleeding system: 1. get some clear tube, make sure the inner diameter can fit over the bleeder nipple snugly 2. get a one-way vacuum check valve 3. cut the clear tube in two pieces, one short another long 4. put the short tube on the bleeder nipple, then the vacuum valve with the flow direction away from the bleeder nipple, then run the long tube up to the master (or run it into a bottle that you dispose of the fluid properly. If you run into a bottle, make sure there is plenty of fluid in the master throughout the entire process) 5. open the bleeder valve a little bit, doesn't need to be much, just to release the pressure of the fluid. 6. pump your foot slowly, long steady strokes, and not letting it recoil too fast. Do this until you see no more small bubbles, The one-way vacuum valve makes sure that the fluid only flows in one direction like a Diode on a DC circuit. 7. close off the bleeder valve 8. see if you can get back-pressure, if you can you're done, if not get a friend to help. I did this on mine, then had a ASE certified mechanic check it for me and he found no air bubbles in it at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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