cruiser54 Posted May 29, 2015 Share Posted May 29, 2015 Not grinding brakes, but what has everyone done to improve them? I have my druthers on boosters and prop valve guts. MJs never had great brakes. Comments? Questions? Image Not FoundImage Not FoundImage Not FoundImage Not Found Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted May 29, 2015 Share Posted May 29, 2015 I did the 95/96 as I got the parts cheap and it was basically bolt on for my '91. The booster swap should honestly be the first upgrade any of us make. I cannot begin to explain what a difference it made in the truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted May 29, 2015 Author Share Posted May 29, 2015 I did the 95/96 as I got the parts cheap and it was basically bolt on for my '91. The booster swap should honestly be the first upgrade any of us make. I cannot begin to explain what a difference it made in the truck. I didn't want to believe that as I'm a 4 wheel disc kinda guy. You are 100% correct. Booster first. No question about it. I've done 95/96 and 99 to 04 WJ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJTIM Posted May 29, 2015 Share Posted May 29, 2015 I picked up a MC/booster from a 96 XJ. I am hoping to install it soon. My question is bleed the system. I have seen some youtubes that indicate that bleeding at the prop valve is all that is required. Is that true? Should I bleed the whole system instead? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
watchamakalit Posted May 29, 2015 Share Posted May 29, 2015 Always bleed the complete system. Starting at the furthest point away from the master cylinder and working your way closer. This applies to any time you open the system. Trapped air=improper brake function. I have found on older vehicles often it will make significant improvements to braking just by bleeding the old system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted May 29, 2015 Share Posted May 29, 2015 There is a special bleeding procedure for the MJ which you should follow if your rear proportioning/height sensing valve is still being used. And remember that the proportioning valve shown in the third of those three photos above is an XJ proportioning valve. The MJ front thingie that looks sort of like that does not disassemble the same way, it does not have that front plug and spring, and it is NOT a proportioning valve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted May 29, 2015 Share Posted May 29, 2015 I did the rear disks first in 07 using a Teraflex kit, which is basically a Ford Explorer conversion. The load sensing valve went unchanged, and it was a very good braking improvement. The next year I did the 96 XJ dual diaphragm install, and it got way better, perhaps even more of an improvement than the disks after I dialed the load sensing valve in using an adjustable rod. So if you're going to do one or the other, do the booster/master. The rear disks are gravy, and still a lot better than the drums. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJTIM Posted May 29, 2015 Share Posted May 29, 2015 Yes, I know the order: RR, LR, RF LF, open the RF bleeder to activate the load valve, repeat the RR, LR, RF, LF. Does the bleeder remain open during the 2nd phase? I can search for it the steps on here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dillithium Posted May 29, 2015 Share Posted May 29, 2015 I got a question. I have a WJ booster + MC lying around, been meaning to upgrade for a year now but haven't gotten round to it. Are the lines from the MC to the distribution block bubble flares or double flares? If the current line nuts are too far gone, what size do I need to buy to replace them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted May 29, 2015 Author Share Posted May 29, 2015 There is a special bleeding procedure for the MJ which you should follow if your rear proportioning/height sensing valve is still being used. And remember that the proportioning valve shown in the third of those three photos above is an XJ proportioning valve. The MJ front thingie that looks sort of like that does not disassemble the same way, it does not have that front plug and spring, and it is NOT a proportioning valve. Correct. The prop valve guts from a 94 to 98 Grand Cherokee are used in an XJ application only. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted May 29, 2015 Author Share Posted May 29, 2015 I got a question. I have a WJ booster + MC lying around, been meaning to upgrade for a year now but haven't gotten round to it. Are the lines from the MC to the distribution block bubble flares or double flares? If the current line nuts are too far gone, what size do I need to buy to replace them? At the block they are double flares. At the master, they are metric bubble flares. There's 2 different sizes at the distribution valve. Probably designed that way so some bonehead couldn't mix them up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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