Jackrabbit41 Posted May 10, 2015 Share Posted May 10, 2015 So this Saturday morning I went and got a 2000 Ford Explorer 8.8 with a limited slip and 4.10s. So far I've degreased it and washed it, and pull off the diff cover. The gears are fine me no metal shavings anywhere. It has nice new rotors and pads. Now here's my questions, I know that the spring perches have to be moved to fit in my comanche, so should I get new ones or reuse the ones I'm going to cut off? How do I decide where the new ones go? What else do I need to do so I can put it in? Will the mj drive shaft fit up to the explorer diff? Should I get c clip eliminators? It's out so would it be worth it? Should I go with 1 piece axles? What diff fluid should I use? Thanks yall and I can't wait to paint it and get it in. Also should I paint it before I do the spring perches or after? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 10, 2015 Share Posted May 10, 2015 buy new perches. no, buy BETTER perches. longer ones that will help fight spring wrap. :thumbsup: While those are getting welded on, add a bit of bead to the differential-to-tube joints. it takes a lot to spin them, but it has been done so better safe than sorry. paint after it's all done. C-clips would only come into play IF you COULD break an 8.8 shaft. but you can't, so don't worry 'bout it. :D they are very stout. and it already has one-piece axle shafts. not sure what you're talking about there. :hmm: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 10, 2015 Share Posted May 10, 2015 also: http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-4980701-ford-8-8-1310-adapter-flange.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunnc1991 Posted May 10, 2015 Share Posted May 10, 2015 Everything you've asked has been covered many many times. Spend a little time searching and you'll find most, if not all your answers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted May 10, 2015 Share Posted May 10, 2015 http://www.billavista.com/Tech/Articles/Driveshaft_Bible/index.html Study before you set up perches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackrabbit41 Posted May 10, 2015 Author Share Posted May 10, 2015 So, do i just cut off the spring perch? is that all? I'm thinking about get this, http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/88SS-31.html, in this kit it has all those optional things, what are those? and is there anything other then spacers and the drive shaft adapter that ill need ill need? i've looked around a lot and the only thing i am confused about it relocating the spring perches (do i measure from the end of the housing in?) and if i need to cut off that other thing that looks like the spring perch. Is that the shock mount? thanks Thanks for the help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackrabbit41 Posted May 10, 2015 Author Share Posted May 10, 2015 And also I'm going to SOA so what does that change? Do I need to cut anything more off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted May 10, 2015 Share Posted May 10, 2015 That kit will work fine. You need to choose a way to adapt your drive shaft yoke to the 8.8 pinion yoke. There are several ways. To go SOA you will need to lengthen brake lines and some other stuff. Tons of info on here. One example is in my sig line but read a few and decide how you want to do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackrabbit41 Posted May 10, 2015 Author Share Posted May 10, 2015 On the 8.8, theres spring perches, but then theres some other flat things that look like spring perches too but there facing another direction that I'm not sure what they are. Anyone know? I don't wanna cut anything off I'm not supposed too. And how do I know where to put the spring perches. I can't find anything on that. Is it a measuring thing? or do i need to pull out the dana 35 to do it? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackrabbit41 Posted May 10, 2015 Author Share Posted May 10, 2015 This thing, the spring perch is the thing all the way to the right right by the jack stand, but then whats this thing right next to it? [/url]">http:// Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87Warrior Posted May 10, 2015 Share Posted May 10, 2015 That is the Ford swaybar mount. I left the mount on mine in-case I try to adapt the Ford swaybar to the MJ someday. Are you going SOA or staying spring under? If staying spring under, you will need to buy longer shock mounts as the ones with the RuffStuff kit are far too short. I stayed spring under and set my perches/pinion angles identical to the D35 I pulled from the MJ. I used Mobil 1 75w-140 synthetic fluid with the additive for the limited slip. Ford recommends 75w-140 for the 8.8 rear end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackrabbit41 Posted May 11, 2015 Author Share Posted May 11, 2015 That is the Ford swaybar mount. I left the mount on mine in-case I try to adapt the Ford swaybar to the MJ someday. Are you going SOA or staying spring under? If staying spring under, you will need to buy longer shock mounts as the ones with the RuffStuff kit are far too short. I stayed spring under and set my perches/pinion angles identical to the D35 I pulled from the MJ. I used Mobil 1 75w-140 synthetic fluid with the additive for the limited slip. Ford recommends 75w-140 for the 8.8 rear end. I'm going spring over SOA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackrabbit41 Posted May 11, 2015 Author Share Posted May 11, 2015 And so I can cut those off? I'm not gonna use a sway bar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 yes, all the 8.8 brackets can go. :thumbsup: to locate the perches side to side,first locate the center of the 8.8 by measuring between the brake backing plates and divide by 2. then find the distance between the stock MJ perches and divide by 2. then just measure off the centerline and locate your perches. finding the pinion angle is a bit more complicated. do you have an angle finder? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 that's an expensive kit. :eek: with some patience, you can make your own perches from 2.5x2.5 square tubing (1/4" wall). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackrabbit41 Posted May 11, 2015 Author Share Posted May 11, 2015 No but I'll get one. I won't be doing this for another month or so cause I'm cleaned out on cash And I think I might get my own welder eventually this summer once I start work again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackrabbit41 Posted May 12, 2015 Author Share Posted May 12, 2015 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 Yep. Fill it when welding the brackets on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackrabbit41 Posted May 13, 2015 Author Share Posted May 13, 2015 Yep. Fill it when welding the brackets on. Cool thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackrabbit41 Posted May 13, 2015 Author Share Posted May 13, 2015 Will I need new shocks if I go SOA for the back?And what about the parking brake cable from the 8.8? Will it fit to the comanche one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackrabbit41 Posted May 13, 2015 Author Share Posted May 13, 2015 Also another thing I didn't notice until more research tonight was the spring perch angle? How do I know what angle to put it at? I wanna go SOA 6 inch probably so what does that change? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 Also another thing I didn't notice until more research tonight was the spring perch angle? How do I know what angle to put it at? I wanna go SOA 6 inch probably so what does that change? Thanks I posted a link here for you to study. Guess you ignored that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunnc1991 Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 ^ That's my point, way too much info on this topic already. Just takes a little time to read up on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackrabbit41 Posted May 13, 2015 Author Share Posted May 13, 2015 I read it but missed that part. Sorry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 A couple bits of advice/tricks to welding the tubes to the cast housing. If you can, try to pre-heat the metal. Use either a high silica mild steel wire or 312L Stainless wire if you can, they are more forgiving and less prone to cracking when the weld cools and the tube and cast housing retract at different rates. Lastly, and it's harder to do with something so big, is finding a way to control the weld cooling. If you use the first two tips, this one shouldn't matter as much, but just be aware that welding mill steel on to cast can be a bit of a pain in the rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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