repetative clicking from left rear wheel when turning left

[Co-MAAAN-cheee]

I'm getting a clicking sound that tracks speed from the left rear wheel. Confirmed using a multi point chassis listening device. It gets most pronounced between 25. And 35 mph. I don't hear it on acceleration only coasting. I've been doing a slalom on a down hill grade testing various scenarios. There is no clicking when turning right. Sometimes I can hear when driving straight. Gets quite loud as soon as the truck starts veering left. Sound the same with our without brakes applied. With the listening device it sounds like something hitting the drum. I haven't taken our apart yet. I'm thinking maybe the bearing are loose and allowing thing to shift around. Anybody deal with the same thing?

[Jeep Driver]

I had a similar problem, believe it or not........it was a wheel weight smacking a brake cable.

[reubj]

My similar noise was a clicking from the right rear when making a left turn. The spring that supported the E-brake cable had broken which allowed the cable to swing over into the wheel as the truck turned.

[Co-MAAAN-cheee]

I checked that and found rubbing on the ebrake cable. I zip tied both out of the way and still getting the noise.

[Jeep Driver]

What wheels do  you have? Tires good?

 

I'd go through the brakes then.....take apart and inspect.

 

Could be a bad bearing or a crack in the drum or hub of the wheel or hub cap or center cap............who knows????? until you strip it down.

[Co-MAAAN-cheee]

I'll swap wheel to the front. That should eliminate tire, wheel, and hub cap right away. Thanks for the suggestion. I'm definitely not a pro.

[Co-MAAAN-cheee]

Put the truck up on stands, put it in to neutral and turned the wheels by hand. Moved the around to check free play. Passenger side felt tight abd when I pushed inboard or pull outboard while rotating I didn't notice any difference. On the drivers it felt to me like the bearings are loose. And when I pushed inboard and rotated I could here and feel what seems like gears rubbing together to hard. I'm thinking the bearings have gone bad and are causing the spines on the axle to get to far into the differential. I'm still going to swap wheels anyway just to he certain. If I'm right about bearings what should I check next?

[Co-MAAAN-cheee]

Swapped wheels. No change. When I had it open I saw uneven wear on the brake pads. I'm convinced its the bearings. Thinking I'll take it to the shop. Thoughts?

[Jeep Driver]

Last thing  you want to do is lose a wheel bearing.

 

If  you can't do it  yourself and you have a COMPETENT shop.......maybe it's time to get it there.

[cruiser54]

I had a similar problem, believe it or not........it was a wheel weight smacking a brake cable.

Mine also.

[Co-MAAAN-cheee]

The Shop first said nothing was wrong. After chatting for a while they decided to open the differential. Said it was shot and needs a new carrier. Rough guess before pricing parts was $800 parts a labor. Based on my investigation I believe something is wrong with the differential. They have been a reliable shop. What should I expect?

[Strokermjcomanche]

Id look for a known good used axle and put that in ,especially if you do it yourself . You could easily do it for half that and if you have a Dana 35 in the rear you could upgrade to a better axle .

[Jeep Driver]

Having done the 8.25 conversion myself, it is a chore, but I'd do it again.

 

 

Would I pay $800 to repair a D35? absolutely not.

 

You are in a lurch, not being able to fix this yourself. I'd look for other options though.

[Co-MAAAN-cheee]

Guys: After some research I believe I could do the work myself, and would like to, but, I hurt my knee replacing the leaf springs, so....

 

I've been kind of obsessive about maintaining original parts. This is a street truck. Interior and exterior nicely restored. I'm going to die with this truck. The drive train is all original with 135k miles. My plan has been to have it all rebuilt as needed or cash is handy. I have $2k budgeted to cover maintenance and repairs for the first 1/2 of 2015. I'm considering having them just rebuild the entire axle. Go ahead and do the wheel bearings, stuff like that. They do all the hard stuff and things that benefit from overlapping labor. Then I do a complete brake overhaul. Based on this, do you have thoughts on what I should ask them to quote?

[Jeep Driver]

If it were me, taking your stated position of retaining the original housing.

 

Shop and purchase ALL your own parts.

 

Deliver the parts with the truck and request a quote for labor ONLY!

 

Keep it simple.

 

Why do the brakes yourself when they have to do them anyway?

 

 

 

By the time you purchase new parts......

 

I have no idea why they say the carrier itself is bad- that said, I'd seek out a new trac-lok unit.

New R&P.

All new bearings.

New seals.

New drums and shoes.

 

 

On the cheap side- you'll be at $800 in parts

If you go with trac-lok you'll be at $1100 in parts

 

With $600 labor.

 

 

You'll be anywhere from $1200 to $1700.

 

Add 20-30% if they supply parts.

 

 

 

And you won't even get a kiss.........

[Co-MAAAN-cheee]

Fyi the shop quoted me $1,300 parts and labor to completely rebuilt my Dana 35 axle with limited slip. $1,500 with posi. Brakes, all bearings, Carrier. I gave the go ahead on the $1,300.

[Eagle]

Fyi the shop quoted me $1,300 parts and labor to completely rebuilt my Dana 35 axle with limited slip. $1,500 with posi. Brakes, all bearings, Carrier. I gave the go ahead on the $1,300.

I apologize up front, but I am already concerned about this shop.

 

They quoted $1,300 with a limited slip. I assume that's a Dana Trac-Lok, which is what the factory used. It's about the least expensive limited slip you can get.

 

But what's this about another $200 for "posi"? "Positraction" was a trade name used by General Motors for their limited slip differentials back in the 1960s. It has come to be used as a generic name for a limited slip, much like "kleenex" has become synonymous with facial tissue, but when you try to distinguish between a Dana Trac-Lok and something else -- there ain't no "Positraction" that I'm aware of for the Dana 35 axle, and never has been.

 

Did they ever give you a satisfactory explanation of what's wrong with your diff? Did they tell you exactly what limited slip differential they're putting in?

[Co-MAAAN-cheee]

Thanks for the insight. I'll show him this post and ask him to provide better details. I will say, I went to high school with the manager, Bill. He's always been a decent guy. He's my neighbor. And the shop has been there for years and has a good rep. Bill isn't as technical as his mechanics, I notice he often talks in layman's terms. I asked him to keep the cost down. I have no interest in off road and Will use my 97 xj in the rare Snow fall here in Seattle. The stock diff lasted 26 years. Based on previous posts, I'm thinking $1,300 is a decent deal for parts and labor for an end to end rebuilt on the rear axle, even if they are providing the least expensive option. Last word, i work for an IT consulting company. We won't even do work for customers that won't buy the product from us. We can't hit our profitability goals on labor alone. I'd rather pay a bit more and know that Bill and his crew can make a decent living. Jeepdriver seems pretty learned, I'm right in his advice, price wise.

[Jeep Driver]

http://www.4wd.com/Jeep-Drivetrain-Jeep-Axles-Differentials/Dana-35-Trac-Loc-Limited-Slip-Differential.aspx?t_c=12&t_s=237&t_pt=5589&t_pn=D%2fS74210X&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping&emlprox=out&ppcfon=1&gp=1&gclid=Cj0KEQjwmLipBRC59O_EqJ_E0asBEiQATYdNh5CRK3W_vyBq_zzexawBK9Rs8lWjfaj8kDL1dZJ4bWoaAigj8P8HAQ

 

$350

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdh-73404-5x?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KEQjwmLipBRC59O_EqJ_E0asBEiQATYdNh8zN6yZbE3Fxt1uilzMgDUCb-yz6Apsl-PbVWPrIFbgaAnxv8P8HAQ

 

$272

 

http://www.jegs.com/i/Motive+Gear/683/R35RWT/10002/-1?CAWELAID=230006180000864797&CAGPSPN=pla&catargetid=230006180000849783&cadevice=c&gclid=Cj0KEQjwmLipBRC59O_EqJ_E0asBEiQATYdNh4fSOwVdDiT5H0uLrfAeu9OQw3rdmIUX6bn0896QzD4aAod48P8HAQ

 

$84

 

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetrain-Differentials/Dana-35-44-Rear-Axle-Shaft-Bearing-Kit.aspx?t_c=12&t_s=237&t_pt=5091&t_pn=CROD35WJ-ABK&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping&emlprox=out&ppcfon=1&gp=1&gclid=Cj0KEQjwmLipBRC59O_EqJ_E0asBEiQATYdNh88hqmPWj-GY_FR2TDPzF-9JjbjzfW4pqlfsDje4bAYaAmMw8P8HAQ

 

$104

 

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/drum-brake-service-kit-rear-dana-35-9x2-5-drum-16766-01.html

 

$187

 

Ebrake cables--  $30

 

DS Ujoints --$30

 

 

The above is for price and part comparison only-

 

Total parts $1,057

 

Assuming free shipping and no tax.

 

 

 

 

 

In my earlier post I was thinking of Detroit Trutrac which is the unit that I would use and is priced around $650.

 

 

 

Prices above......yes, you could shop and save but the prices are near actual cost and are Spicer brand.

 

When you take a repair from a repair to a restoration......in my opinion and practice........you replace everything with new, you are only retaining the housing. Why? $1300 for repair or $1600 to drive away with a completely new rear axle....? Saving $300 makes no sense when you are already spending $1300.....? right?

 

 

 

Now, investing that kind of money in a D35, that's another matter.

 

 

I suggested you buy all the parts so YOU know whats being installed in YOUR axle.

 

I would never leave that decision to a shop.......they do not care.......neighbor......school buddy.......or not.

[Co-MAAAN-cheee]

Jeep Driver: I think I understand where you are coming from. I'm coming from a different set of values and experience. Since you've invested so much time to help me understand your perspective I thought I would take a moment to share as best I can. I've enjoyed working on my truck, but, I enjoying having and driving it more. I bought it to restore to what I call "Good from a far, but, far from good" street driver. I have spend over $13K so far and I couldn't sell it for $5K. I'm not worried about the loss of capital/equity. I paid cash that I could afford. However, I'm not going to buy the best of the best and I'm patiently repairing things as they come up and doing it as thoughtfully as I can. I'm not going to take it off road. It's just too pretty for that. Next, I will always purchase parts and labor from a local company unless I have no other option. I care about my community and my neighbors and feel I have an obligation to support them through my purchasing. Even if it might cost a bit more. You seem very concerned about trust and care, and you suggest that Bill isn't trustworthy and lacks expertise. I going to bet that the guy taking your order over the internet cares less than Bill at Harlow Auto Repair, not to mention Bill knows I know where he lives. If he doesn't care about me I'm betting he cares about his reputations.

[Jeep Driver]

Please don't take what I said personally. I rarely post with the idea that I'm posting directly to the OP but to the next guy that reads your thread, be it six hours from now or six days from now or six months from now.

 

As for Bill, the next guy that takes his differential for repair may not find a Bill.

 

And there are other solutions besides a $1300 repair of a D35.

 

 

I too am in the same boat, nearly $14K invested.

 

 

 

As for local......there ain't much around here and even less of suppliers that know their @$$ from a hole in the ground......nope......no allegiance.

[cruiser54]

Please don't take what I said personally. I rarely post with the idea that I'm posting directly to the OP but to the next guy that reads your thread, be it six hours from now or six days from now or six months from now.

 

As for Bill, the next guy that takes his differential for repair may not find a Bill.

 

And there are other solutions besides a $1300 repair of a D35.

 

 

I too am in the same boat, nearly $14K invested.

 

 

 

As for local......there ain't much around here and even less of suppliers that know their @$$ from a hole in the ground......nope......no allegiance.

That's interesting Jeep Driver, as I tend to post the same way. Speaking to the whole group. 

[Co-MAAAN-cheee]

Not taking it personally. I too hope this serves a greater audience. Not everyone shares the same goals.

[Eagle]

Don't misunderstand my point: The Dana Trac-Lok is a clutch-type limited slip differential. While it's the least expensive such unit on the market, it's also what the factory used. I have Trac-Loks in three XJs and one MJ and I have no problems with it for my use. For a street-driven truck, it's a good choice.

 

That said, in generic terms it IS a "posi." Once you go beyond generic descriptions, "posi" is short for "positraction," which is a GM trade name. There has never been a positraction differential for the Jeep Dana 35 axle.

 

I'm all in favor of supporting local businesses -- right up to the point where they show me they don't know what they're talking about. Once they start blowing smoke I'm gone.

 

Non-Jeep related, a couple of years ago I needed some regrading and drainage work done in my yard. I brought in a local site and grading contractor. Small company, owner lives in town, good reputation. He came to the house, we stood in the driveway and I showed him exactly what the problem was and explained what I wanted done. I specified that the new material was to be 3/8" trap rock (broken stone).

 

A few days later I came home to find the work finished. It was ALL wrong. Rather than remove material to grade away from the house (which was what I had asked for), he built the grade up near the house -- thereby creating a building code violation. He didn't use 3/8" broken stone, he used "processed gravel" -- which is a mix of ungraded broken stone and stone dust. And his processed gravel had organics ("weeds") in it, because within two weeks after he was done I had grass and weeds growing in my driveway. And -- what he did failed to alleviate the flooding. I had to have another contractor come in the following year to make other corrections in order to offset what the first guy did.

 

Being a neighbor in no way equals knowing what you're doing.

[Co-MAAAN-cheee]

This will be my final post on this. Got my truck back from the shop and its running great. I'm sure that many of you reading this aren't prepared and/or willing to complete a total rebuild of a rear axle and therefore need to hire a professional. For me I've found that doing lots of research online and engaging in a thoughtful conversation with my trusted shop leads to many successes. Owning and operating an auto shop for 20 years doesn't require a person to be dishonest or incompetent and knowing the person in your community more often than not ensures honest dealing. A person wouldn't last long in business repeatedly cheating their neighbors. Certainly be sure to research the shop, ask around, Google them, sign up for angies list. Also, as to rebuilding a Dana35. Wikipedia says this about the Dana 35h It is "reliable in day-to-day street use, but notoriously the opposite when worked hard." My father runs Dana 35 in his wrangler and had been v off roading for years, and he know lots of folks in Yuma, az off roading with Dana 35. If keeping your truck original is important to you and/or your aren't going to push it hard there's nothing wrong with Dana 35.