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What I'm dealing with today.....opinions please.


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Fuel pump in the wife's 97XJ is fading fast and I need to replace it tomorrow.

 

Dephi complete unit is $199 at Autozone

or

Bosch at Advance, pump only, $105 after discount.

 

Neither is in stock and I'll have to see who can get me what.

 

Also, OReillys has their brand as a complete unit for $199 in stock but I'd rather go OEM

 

What has worked for you guys?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Bosch and Walbro are replacement pumps I have used in the past with success.  Walbro's are generally very loud (hence their Whinebro nickname), but are a good, cheap pump.

 

I can only name one brand that I would likely not buy again, unless it was the absolute only option and I needed it ASAP - Airtex.  After install the vehicle (98 Chevy Blazer) started and ran fine, but it took a lot longer to start up and was loosing pressure after the vehicle was shut down - faulty pressure regulator.  The fuel pressure regulator on that unit was installed directly on top of the pump assembly - much like your 97XJ fuel pump assembly is configured.  I searched online for this issue and found a few people that had complained about the regulator on Airtex pumps being bad right out of the box.  

 

My advice to you would be to test the pump prior to re-installing the fuel tank back into it's location.  See if the vehicle fires right up on the first or second crank.  If not, the pressure regulator might be bad and for such a simple item to swap out, Chryco certainly put it in a terrible service location.  I just did a pressure regulator install on my 01XJ last year and it was about a 1.5 hour job to remove/support the fuel tank just to do a 2 minute regulator swap.    

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I changed the fuel pump on my 88 comanche chief several years ago,  and I didn't have to remove the gas tank.

I remember it being a tight fit to get the assembly out and back into the tank, but it was possible.

Use a brass punch on the lock ring...you don't want to make any sparks.

 

hope this helps

steve

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I changed the fuel pump on my 88 comanche chief several years ago,  and I didn't have to remove the gas tank.

I remember it being a tight fit to get the assembly out and back into the tank, but it was possible.

Use a brass punch on the lock ring...you don't want to make any sparks.

 

hope this helps

steve

 

Except he's asking about a fuel pump for a 1997XJ.  On the XJ's you absolutely have to remove the tank unless you cut an access hole in the rear trunk floor.

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Not sure now where I purchased the Carter unit I installed on my 97'-XJ ~ 2yrs ago.

Part Number on the box in the garage is P75040M. Complete assembly. 

 

It was, as previously mentioned, not really a fun job getting the tank out and then the pump assembly was more fun.

 

The fuel feed line is plastic so be careful and it is not very long. Looks complicated to disconnect but don't over-think it. 

 

The complete assembly is held in by a HUGE nut ring that is plastic. I did have anything anywhere near that big and used 

a rubber mallet and screwdriver.  Since my XJ was not owned before me with any knowledge or care of the vehicle it had

so much dirt caked around it that after chipping, digging and scraping I still soak it with PB Blaster for a couple hours after

the first few tries. 

 

My only issue is that my fuel gauge doesn't seem to read correctly. The whole assembly is spring loaded and somehow I'm

pretty sure either I did something wrong or set it up incorrectly.  I've never run out of gas but I've never put more than ~16 

gallons in the when it reads empty. 

 

Good Luck!

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I ordered the Bosch pump only.

 

I drove it today and I can get about 2-3 miles before the pump heats up and begins to shut down. I pulled over and let it cool for about 5 minutes and can get a couple of more miles out of it. Rinse, repeat.

 

So, I'm only going to replace the pump.......hope it's the right decision.

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I changed the fuel pump on my 88 comanche chief several years ago,  and I didn't have to remove the gas tank.

I remember it being a tight fit to get the assembly out and back into the tank, but it was possible.

Use a brass punch on the lock ring...you don't want to make any sparks.

 

hope this helps

steve

 

Except he's asking about a fuel pump for a 1997XJ.  On the XJ's you absolutely have to remove the tank unless you cut an access hole in the rear trunk floor.

 

OOps, I missed that

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Bosch and Walbro are replacement pumps I have used in the past with success.  Walbro's are generally very loud (hence their Whinebro nickname), but are a good, cheap pump.

 

I can only name one brand that I would likely not buy again, unless it was the absolute only option and I needed it ASAP - Airtex.  After install the vehicle (98 Chevy Blazer) started and ran fine, but it took a lot longer to start up and was loosing pressure after the vehicle was shut down - faulty pressure regulator.  The fuel pressure regulator on that unit was installed directly on top of the pump assembly - much like your 97XJ fuel pump assembly is configured.  I searched online for this issue and found a few people that had complained about the regulator on Airtex pumps being bad right out of the box.  

 

My advice to you would be to test the pump prior to re-installing the fuel tank back into it's location.  See if the vehicle fires right up on the first or second crank.  If not, the pressure regulator might be bad and for such a simple item to swap out, Chryco certainly put it in a terrible service location.  I just did a pressure regulator install on my 01XJ last year and it was about a 1.5 hour job to remove/support the fuel tank just to do a 2 minute regulator swap.    

 

 

What was the symptoms you were having that caused you to swap the regulator?

 

 

I swapped the pump tonight and the same problem persists.

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Could it be the CPS overheating? I began having a similar problem with my '88 MJ shortly after I replaced the CPS. It was okay at first, possibly because I replaced it in January. Once the weather warmed up, I would drive for 3 or 4 miles and it would just cut out. If I sat there for 30 to 45 minutes, it would start up and I could drive home.

 

I still haven't repaired it, so I don't know for sure that's the problem. I just parked it until I have time to deal with it.

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Bosch and Walbro are replacement pumps I have used in the past with success.  Walbro's are generally very loud (hence their Whinebro nickname), but are a good, cheap pump.

 

I can only name one brand that I would likely not buy again, unless it was the absolute only option and I needed it ASAP - Airtex.  After install the vehicle (98 Chevy Blazer) started and ran fine, but it took a lot longer to start up and was loosing pressure after the vehicle was shut down - faulty pressure regulator.  The fuel pressure regulator on that unit was installed directly on top of the pump assembly - much like your 97XJ fuel pump assembly is configured.  I searched online for this issue and found a few people that had complained about the regulator on Airtex pumps being bad right out of the box.  

 

My advice to you would be to test the pump prior to re-installing the fuel tank back into it's location.  See if the vehicle fires right up on the first or second crank.  If not, the pressure regulator might be bad and for such a simple item to swap out, Chryco certainly put it in a terrible service location.  I just did a pressure regulator install on my 01XJ last year and it was about a 1.5 hour job to remove/support the fuel tank just to do a 2 minute regulator swap.    

 

 

What was the symptoms you were having that caused you to swap the regulator?

 

 

I swapped the pump tonight and the same problem persists.

 

Symptoms were Jeep would take an unusually long time to fire after initial cranking.  The problem could be mitigated by cycling the key on/off a few times to let the fuel pressure build up prior to starting the vehicle.  After it fired up it ran perfect.

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Up stream O2.

 

I cannot believe what an effect a bad O2 will have.

 

Seems back to normal now.

only one O2. 

 

 

 

 

Read codes  on Sunday.

 

TPS code, replaced with new one.

 

Trans module error, I assume this was caused by TPS.

 

O2 code, bank 1, upstream.

 

 

 

I ditched the Cat on Saturday and welded a bung for the downstream O2, downstream was out of the Jeep while new muffler and pipe was welded. Downstream was also still clean and somewhat shiny, PO must have replaced before we got it.

 

 

I supposed the welding could have done in the upstream O2.

 

 

I did not immediately replace the O2 on Sunday because I could not believe it was the cause.

Symptoms was that of loss of fuel pressure.

 

 

 

Last night I read and read and read......dozens of threads.......all folks with the same symptoms. No real conclusions but O2 seemed to be a common denominator.

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