thejim42 Posted August 8, 2014 Share Posted August 8, 2014 I have been fighting with the drum brakes in my 88 2wd with the d35 for a week now. Ive only done drums a couple times on my old trucks (94 f150 and 99 Dakota). THe passenger side appears to be fine and everything when together like it was supposed to and no issues there. The driver side has been the devil. The front shoe will not seat where it is supposed to and after having the self adjuster and bottom spring come lose while driving I have it all put together, adjusted all the in and now it is dragging so bad that when o got 2 miles down the road to Walmart the driver side is smoking. Am I missing something here? I've never had issues like this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyluvv Posted August 8, 2014 Share Posted August 8, 2014 Did you put the wrong shoes on? There is usually a primary and secondary shoe. That means there is a long shoe and a short shoe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted August 8, 2014 Share Posted August 8, 2014 Yeah, the shoes for each side have a "front" and a "rear" for lack of a better term. That would cause your issues as would a problem with an e-brake cable or the adjuster hanging up. I would also be concerned about how much trouble you had getting the shoe to seat. It has perhaps popped out and will not return, thereby pressing against the drum. Where a sticking caliper would cause these symptoms on the front I have never heard of a wheel cyl causing this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thejim42 Posted August 8, 2014 Author Share Posted August 8, 2014 I have the shoes on right. I only did one side at a time, the short shoe is in the front, driver side has a new parking brake cable and wheel cylinder, new hardware and self adjuster. Compared the old stuff with the new and it all matches up. I can get the front shoe to seat but it doesn't stay there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted August 8, 2014 Share Posted August 8, 2014 I can get the front shoe to seat but it doesn't stay there. I can't visualize what this means. And the Bendix drum brakes that AMC used are (IMHO) infitely easier to work on than the accursed 9-inch Chrysler drum brakes. Post a photo of where the front shoe won't seat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpdriver1 Posted August 8, 2014 Share Posted August 8, 2014 turn the drum? recently put new rears on the wife's durango w/new drums -- couldn't get the drums on --- had em turned and still dragged and smoked. found the adjusters were too long. removed 1/8" works fine now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thejim42 Posted August 9, 2014 Author Share Posted August 9, 2014 The front shoe won't stay where it should. It wants to pop up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted August 9, 2014 Share Posted August 9, 2014 I think it has popped up and is rubbing the drum. Yeah one side at a time to keep the other as a reference is how I do them, too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thejim42 Posted August 9, 2014 Author Share Posted August 9, 2014 How to I keep the shoe from popping up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted August 9, 2014 Share Posted August 9, 2014 What does "popping up" mean? Did you use new attaching hardware, including new hold-down pins and springs? Are you certain that the spring retainer cups are properly seated at 90-degrees to the head of the pin? If you bought new hardware, are you sure it's for a Dana 35? The D35 brakes are 10"x1.75". The D44 brakes are 10"x2.5". Hold down pins for the D44 brakes are too long for the D35. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thejim42 Posted August 9, 2014 Author Share Posted August 9, 2014 I have the right pins, everything is on like it should be and popping up means exactly that. A virtical movement upwards form where it should be. The top of the shoe should sit on the peg right above the wheel cylinder. It doesn't want to stay there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted August 9, 2014 Share Posted August 9, 2014 I have the right pins, everything is on like it should be and popping up means exactly that. A virtical movement upwards form where it should be. The top of the shoe should sit on the peg right above the wheel cylinder. It doesn't want to stay there. Your wheel cylinder is shot, the pin will not retract on that side. I experienced this on my old D35. They are $10 at OReillys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thejim42 Posted August 9, 2014 Author Share Posted August 9, 2014 Its a brand new wheel cylinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted August 9, 2014 Share Posted August 9, 2014 Post a photo. It should be impossible for the shoe to work its way off that peg (stud). Are you certain you have the springs installed correctly? Did you use new springs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thejim42 Posted August 9, 2014 Author Share Posted August 9, 2014 Everything is new Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thejim42 Posted August 11, 2014 Author Share Posted August 11, 2014 I think I'm going to put zj disc brakes on my jeep instead. I'll just put the drum stuff on the shelf for now. D35 to d35 should just bolt right up, just gotta get the right hoses Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue XJ Posted August 11, 2014 Share Posted August 11, 2014 Post a picture and we can help, I have an idea of what you are talking about, but can't picture how it is actually happening, a picture would make this much easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metrictonner Posted August 11, 2014 Share Posted August 11, 2014 If you have the correct leading and trailing shoes figured out (short liner leader, long trailer) and you got the 1.75 vs 2.5 on both PINS and SHOES, then check to see that the parking brake lever and its retainer clip are on the trailing shoe top hole. I've been running mine without the spring washer so I don't think that could be a problem. A lot of times the parking brake cable guide, again on the trailing shoe, will pop out of its hole when you mount the trailing spring. I have to glue mine into place so that I get a good spring mount without pulling the guide out of the hole in the shoe. When the parking brake strut, the wheel cylinder plungers, the shoe springs and the cable guide are in place the shoes should automaticly snap into position. I CAN'T IMAGINE ITS POSSIBLE TO INSTALL A SHOE UPSIDE DOWN... I can't even imagine doing the initial adjustment and getting a drum on unless the shoes are in position. The parking brake and adjustment stuff easily go in after you get everything else right. If the shoes aren't riding up on the backing plate sliders but are actually down between them and the backing plate flange how did you get the drum on? That flange rides in a groove that goes around the bake drum? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thejim42 Posted August 21, 2014 Author Share Posted August 21, 2014 Auto zone sold me a wheel cylinder that had a plunger installed backwards. All fixed now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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