suds1485 Posted April 28, 2014 Share Posted April 28, 2014 So 3 weeks ago i bought an 89 comanche short bed 5 speed with 91 thousand miles on it clean frame and good body. I paid 1000 doallars at police auction. I finaly got it home changed the oil and filter, drained the fuel and added new tried to start it, i had no spark. So i started to check things out so far i have replaced the CPS, Coil, Cap, Rotor, Wires and ICM was going to change the plugs but after i pulled one and i looked brand new i decided not to, after all that got it to start, but it would stall while driving. I replaced the the TPS and it was good to go or so i thought. It drove fine for three days. my brother had it on friday and said it ran great, actully better then his 90 cherokee when it was renix (we just swapped in everything from a 95 so i have an extra renix engine and majority of sensors) so saturday i go to drive it and it was running like total garbage and got worse till it stalled. now it starts runs so rough that it seems like i have muitple cylinders missing and there is no throttle input. I checked my fuel pressure its at 38 pounds. I'm going to change the spark plugs to see if maybe i fouled one or mutiple out while trying to get it to start and I'm going to change my fuel filter because i wanted to do it any way. So what should i check after i do the plugs and filter. I'm leaning towards something fuel related because it got so low (less then 1/8th) and i don't know the quality of gas that was in there. As far as service records or any history i don't know any. The only tring i know is that it sat for at least two years at the impound. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted April 29, 2014 Share Posted April 29, 2014 Drain out what's left of the two-year-old fuel, put in 5 or 10 gallons of fresh gasoline, and see what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suds1485 Posted April 29, 2014 Author Share Posted April 29, 2014 Drain out what's left of the two-year-old fuel, put in 5 or 10 gallons of fresh gasoline, and see what happens. i drained the fuel with a fuel pump that that i had and used a feul line down into the tank from the fill. i added $25 in fuel wet gas and octaine boost ran it then this started to happen i also put in 5 gallons in and its still doing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasbulliwagen Posted April 29, 2014 Share Posted April 29, 2014 You might try to jump the fuel pump ballast resistor too. It should be at the top of the left front inner fender, al little white ceramic thing with two wires. jump them to take that out of the equation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suds1485 Posted April 29, 2014 Author Share Posted April 29, 2014 You might try to jump the fuel pump ballast resistor too. It should be at the top of the left front inner fender, al little white ceramic thing with two wires. jump them to take that out of the equation. Ill give that a whirl. I did change that from the 90 it was working fine 3 days prior to putting it in the comanche. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suds1485 Posted April 29, 2014 Author Share Posted April 29, 2014 I changed my spark plugs. I noticed they were wet with fuel and stunk bad. I also jumped the resistor and had no change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted April 29, 2014 Share Posted April 29, 2014 If the plastic line from the throttle body to MAP sensor on the firewall is compromised in any way, the system will go full rich. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suds1485 Posted May 2, 2014 Author Share Posted May 2, 2014 ok so far i have changed (or swapped out with know working ones) all that i mentioned before (CPS, TPS, Cap, Rotor, Coil, ICM) now i have done MAP sensor, distributor, Fuel Pressure regulator injector's (6) and the rail. I'm beginning to think valve timing it sounds like the engine is running on 4 cylinders not 6. before i pull the timing chain and gears any suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasbulliwagen Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 Compression and leakdown test? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 Timing chain issues are EXTREMELY RARE in the 4.0s. Do a compression test and that will tell you, as suggested. How's thar vacuum line I mentioned early on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suds1485 Posted May 2, 2014 Author Share Posted May 2, 2014 Timing chain issues are EXTREMELY RARE in the 4.0s. Do a compression test and that will tell you, as suggested. How's thar vacuum line I mentioned early on? Vacuum line appears to be fine, no cracks and has a unrestricted flow. i will do a compression test prior to pulling anything apart. I will update when i get a chance to do the test. my work schedule is retarded on the weekends. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oddmodman Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 My vote even though you've already discarded it as a culprit, is plug wires. It's surprising how degenerated good wires can be on the inside even when they look fly on the outside. Kinda like some women... *cough... Use the set from your brothers for a test drive perhaps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suds1485 Posted May 3, 2014 Author Share Posted May 3, 2014 My vote even though you've already discarded it as a culprit, is plug wires. It's surprising how degenerated good wires can be on the inside even when they look fly on the outside. Kinda like some women... *cough... Use the set from your brothers for a test drive perhaps. it alredy has new wires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oddmodman Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 My bad, I mixed up 'plugs' and 'wires' in your original post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oddmodman Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 Idk, the only thing I can think of is that your injectors are wonky. Except for one more thing: when you replaced all your electrical parts did you have the battery unplugged? If so, when you went to start it did you let the key sit in the on position for atleast 30 seconds before starting? I know with other same-era OBD1 vehicles whenever you change a sensor you need to do the key thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 89 is still Renix. OBD1 was first used on '91 model year XJ's and MJ's. What Oddmodman's describing for an OBD1 Jeep seems to be a "reset the ecu" thing, which happens just by disconnecting the battery. The ECU has no permanent storage, so it loses everything when it loses power and pretty well has to retune itself, and will run a little rough while it does that. Don't know if Renix works the same way or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 89 is still Renix. OBD1 was first used on '91 model year XJ's and MJ's. What Oddmodman's describing for an OBD1 Jeep seems to be a "reset the ecu" thing, which happens just by disconnecting the battery. The ECU has no permanent storage, so it loses everything when it loses power and pretty well has to retune itself, and will run a little rough while it does that. Don't know if Renix works the same way or not. Renix ECUs go braindead every time you shut the vehicle off. No need to reset. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oddmodman Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 Wow I get edumacated every day. I always thought that everything before OBD2 was considered OBD1. I feel dumb. So yeah, good luck OP, lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 Wow I get edumacated every day. I always thought that everything before OBD2 was considered OBD1. I feel dumb. So yeah, good luck OP, lol. If Renix had an OBD rating it would be 0. LOL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suds1485 Posted May 8, 2014 Author Share Posted May 8, 2014 Today I went to start it for $#!&s and giggles and it starts right up. Idling nice and smooth. Went to hit the gas and it stumbled. So I made my ballast resistor bypass more perminate and it's running very nice. So I'm not really sure what it was with the exception of the ballast resistor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glundblad Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 For what it is worth, mine has low miles which means it sat quite a bit. It ran rough when I first got it. I tried everything. Finally, I gave up and took it to a dealer. EGR valve and solenoid did the trick. I would drive it 1,000 miles now with no concerns (except the AC doesn't blow cold :thumbsup:). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suds1485 Posted May 8, 2014 Author Share Posted May 8, 2014 For what it is worth, mine has low miles which means it sat quite a bit. It ran rough when I first got it. I tried everything. Finally, I gave up and took it to a dealer. EGR valve and solenoid did the trick. I would drive it 1,000 miles now with no concerns (except the AC doesn't blow cold :thumbsup:).I thought about that. But found that the erg isn't hooked up and the vacuum line is plugged. Anyway I went to start it today and it's doing it again. I feel it's something electrical at this point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Co.Jeep.Manche401 Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 Mine is acting the same way, just got her. I'm working on cruisers renix tips now, vacuum lines should be in from Napa later today, I bought the whole set, I'll let you know if mine changes at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suds1485 Posted May 30, 2014 Author Share Posted May 30, 2014 Finally fixed it. it was the crank position sensor. the harness melted causing it to short out. thanks for the help guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 Finally fixed it. it was the crank position sensor. the harness melted causing it to short out. thanks for the help guys! Good. Go to post 7 in my Tips link and you can see the proper routing... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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