reubj Posted February 24, 2014 Share Posted February 24, 2014 This has happened couple of times: I would accidentally stall the engine while parking. The engine re-starts easily but at a very high idle, 2000 - 3000 RPM. I would turn off the engine for 30 seconds or so and re-start it with the same high idle issue. Under any other situation the engine re-starts fine hot or cold, after a short trip or long trip. I've tried searching this scenario with no luck. Any help is appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88whitemanche Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 It can be your tps that needs to be adjusted or there's a vacuum line loose somewhere that's causing the high idle... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 When my TPS was going out it would start and idle at 25-3000 from time to time ... usually several stop/starts would mellow it out as it was getting sticky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reubj Posted February 25, 2014 Author Share Posted February 25, 2014 The only time this ever happens is when I re-start it immediately after stalling it out by trying to creep up a hill or something. If I turn it off with the key then immediately re-start it does fine. Not sure what stalling has to do with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 Click on the link in my signature and do #1, 3, and 5 for starters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aaronbtxnc Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 Please update with solution as I have this same problem, not necessarily after stall, but if truck is warm and restart. Only happens occasionally on mine, not predictable at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 Please update with solution as I have this same problem, not necessarily after stall, but if truck is warm and restart. Only happens occasionally on mine, not predictable at all. Do the stuff in post 5. There's no silver bullet cure for this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reubj Posted February 27, 2014 Author Share Posted February 27, 2014 Please update with solution as I have this same problem, not necessarily after stall, but if truck is warm and restart. Only happens occasionally on mine, not predictable at all. I will definitely post when/if I find a solution. I wonder if the powerlatch relay may have something to do with it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 Please update with solution as I have this same problem, not necessarily after stall, but if truck is warm and restart. Only happens occasionally on mine, not predictable at all. I will definitely post when/if I find a solution. I wonder if the powerlatch relay may have something to do with it? No. Start with post 5. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reubj Posted February 27, 2014 Author Share Posted February 27, 2014 Please update with solution as I have this same problem, not necessarily after stall, but if truck is warm and restart. Only happens occasionally on mine, not predictable at all. I will definitely post when/if I find a solution. I wonder if the powerlatch relay may have something to do with it? No. Start with post 5. First thing on my to-do list this weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 Please update with solution as I have this same problem, not necessarily after stall, but if truck is warm and restart. Only happens occasionally on mine, not predictable at all. I will definitely post when/if I find a solution. I wonder if the powerlatch relay may have something to do with it? No. Start with post 5. First thing on my to-do list this weekend. At the dealership in the day, we were replacing parts left and right, with a crappy factory tester guiding us and had repeat failures. We came to find out that the bulk of the issues came from poor grounds to the sensors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reubj Posted March 1, 2014 Author Share Posted March 1, 2014 Did the sensor test #5. No fluctuations. Reading .02 ohms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted March 1, 2014 Share Posted March 1, 2014 Did the sensor test #5. No fluctuations. Reading .02 ohms. Good. Do 1 and 3 next. Your TPS may be bad but you can check that later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reubj Posted March 1, 2014 Author Share Posted March 1, 2014 Okay. I went over all grounds and connections. Everything looks good. While I was at it I checked the TPS. Results were 4.86VDC and .75 VDC. I readjusted to get a reading of .82VDC. Took it out for a spin. Ran fine. Got back and popped the cutch to stall it out. Restarted, idle at 3000 RPM. Shut it off, waited a minute, restarted at 2500 RPM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87ComancheLB Posted March 1, 2014 Share Posted March 1, 2014 I had the same problem with my 87 Renix it would restart up at high rpm and I would constantly try and blipped the throttle trying to get it back down. I ended up replacing all the single port injectors to 4 ports and I believe I also had a small vacuum leak somewhere on the intake manifold to the head I replace with new gasket, anyways the problem is no longer there gone completely feels great I lived with this problem for a long time. Hope this helps. What's the most important tip you'd share with MJ owner...Bottom of page one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reubj Posted March 1, 2014 Author Share Posted March 1, 2014 I replaced the injectors a couple of weeks ago. I'll try to test for vacuum leaks around the intake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 Okay. I went over all grounds and connections. Everything looks good. While I was at it I checked the TPS. Results were 4.86VDC and .75 VDC. I readjusted to get a reading of .82VDC. Took it out for a spin. Ran fine. Got back and popped the cutch to stall it out. Restarted, idle at 3000 RPM. Shut it off, waited a minute, restarted at 2500 RPM. Describe "went over" grounds and connections. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onlyinajeep726 Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 Run, Run, Rudolph Maybe it is age, maybe it is mileage, but we've seen a lot of Renix-era ('87-'90) Cherokees where the bolts holding the intake and exhaust manifold to the six-cylinder engine work themselves loose and cause the engine to race around 2,000 rpm. Prevention: Tighten the bolts, dummy! Cure: Tighten the bolts, dummy! Seriously though, if your Jeep isn't doing this yet, just check the bolts. If it is idling erratically, grab your 9/16-inch wrench, get the Jeep to operating temperature and tighten the bolts while the Jeep is hot. Be wary of over tightening, though-they like to snap. If you let the leak go for too long you might need to just bite the bullet and put in a new gasket, but often tightening is all that is needed. http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/154-1005-jeep-cherokee-xj-problems-and-fixes/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reubj Posted March 2, 2014 Author Share Posted March 2, 2014 Cruiser: When I bought the vehicle back in August I performed #1 and #3. This weekend I did the same thing. The truck idles and runs beautifully under all normal driving conditions. Only when the truck is stalled as I described does the high idle appear. Just a nuisance at this point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 Cruiser: When I bought the vehicle back in August I performed #1 and #3. This weekend I did the same thing. How about 5? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reubj Posted March 2, 2014 Author Share Posted March 2, 2014 Yep. Did that Friday. .02 Ohms, no fluctuations. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reubj Posted March 2, 2014 Author Share Posted March 2, 2014 Run, Run, Rudolph Maybe it is age, maybe it is mileage, but we've seen a lot of Renix-era ('87-'90) Cherokees where the bolts holding the intake and exhaust manifold to the six-cylinder engine work themselves loose and cause the engine to race around 2,000 rpm. Prevention: Tighten the bolts, dummy! Cure: Tighten the bolts, dummy! Seriously though, if your Jeep isn't doing this yet, just check the bolts. If it is idling erratically, grab your 9/16-inch wrench, get the Jeep to operating temperature and tighten the bolts while the Jeep is hot. Be wary of over tightening, though-they like to snap. If you let the leak go for too long you might need to just bite the bullet and put in a new gasket, but often tightening is all that is needed. http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/154-1005-jeep-cherokee-xj-problems-and-fixes/ How much stuff has to be removed to gain access to the intake / exhaust manifold bolts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 Run, Run, Rudolph Maybe it is age, maybe it is mileage, but we've seen a lot of Renix-era ('87-'90) Cherokees where the bolts holding the intake and exhaust manifold to the six-cylinder engine work themselves loose and cause the engine to race around 2,000 rpm. Prevention: Tighten the bolts, dummy! Cure: Tighten the bolts, dummy! Seriously though, if your Jeep isn't doing this yet, just check the bolts. If it is idling erratically, grab your 9/16-inch wrench, get the Jeep to operating temperature and tighten the bolts while the Jeep is hot. Be wary of over tightening, though-they like to snap. If you let the leak go for too long you might need to just bite the bullet and put in a new gasket, but often tightening is all that is needed. http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/154-1005-jeep-cherokee-xj-problems-and-fixes/ How much stuff has to be removed to gain access to the intake / exhaust manifold bolts? Nothing. But, if that were the sole issue, it would idle high all the time.... Never a bad idea to just snug them up a bit. You can also TEST for vacuum leaks with some carb cleaner sprayed around suspected areas while the engine is idling. You've done a great job of eliminating some possibilities. Now, your TPS could be bad, or out of adjustment. Most likely bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reubj Posted March 2, 2014 Author Share Posted March 2, 2014 Thanks everyone for the responses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 Thanks everyone for the responses. Thanks for sticking with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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