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Posted

How do you remove the rear window? At some point, my rear window was replaced and wasnt sealed correctly, so now I have to redo it. How do I get it out without breaking it?

Posted

get a piece of small cable, about 2.5 feet in length. i forget what gauge cable. anyways, get that. remove the trim seal (black seal around window).

removing your interior trim will help.

 

poke the cable through the seal (may take a bit of effort or a poke it through).

 

then you will need to have a friend on the inside and move the cable in a sawing action, pulling it towards the sides. if you have a split rear you can do it yourself.

 

basically, use the cable as a saw, OR you can attempt to use a box-cutter. (very hard and you'll probably break it)

Posted

Mine was in with polyurethane and I couldn't get it out.

 

 

 

Took it to a glass shop, had them hot knife it. Cost $40 to do that and put the new one in. Worth it, IMHO. But, I'll never stand in the way of a DIYer.

Posted

pull the seal slowly...and when you put the new window in, scrape all the glue off the window and the frame. put the seal back on around the window...the seal is actually just a centering device that locates the window.

 

glue gets applied before you place the window in (obviously) and then just place it (with enough of the polyurothane glue) back in position, then take masking tape and tape it into position.

 

allow at least a day before MOVING the vehicle...it needs to dry before it can be driven. I'd allow 2 to 3 before planning to drive it, simply cause i drive with windows down and don't want it to blow off from air.

 

if you have a solid rear, now's the time to go to a split rear as well. even if you'd never use the split rear, it's worth it for the aesthetics

Posted

funny, I'm junking the pos split rear window(busted anyways) for a solid glass lol.when i get my glass guy to come swap em for me, ill try to snag some pics. also, you have to leave your windows cracked about 2 in to allow pressure of the cab to get out when u shut the doors so the window doesnt pop back out. also put tape from the body to the glass in each corner to keep it in there also.

Posted

Mine is split rear, and I am reusing it. The problem is that it leaks because some mentally challenged individual didnt use the PU glue, they used some black $#!& that highly resembles black rtv, and WAY too much of it too. I destroyed the molding strip trying to get it off because it too was firmly glued in place, so ill have to come up with something for placement, probably some 3/8" shims for now unless I can locate a good seal either new or used. I doubt highly that this is available anymore from the dealer, but ill check. Anyone know if there are any aftermarket ones available?

Posted

You might find it in here, I looked quick and didn't see the molding -

 

http://www.teamcherokee.com/

 

Sounds like they used silcone to set the old, use some acidtone(sp) to clean it up. But don't spill any on your paint.

 

And most glass men use paino wire to cut thru old sealant. Hot knife is the best for one person.

Posted

I was able to buy the rear window gasket from my dealer about a year ago. I dobt there's been a run on them, so the warehouse may still have them.

Posted

that, or i'm sure one from a jy that's good would be cheap...they don't usually go bad and are easily removed from one that hasn't been changed

Posted

thanks guys, I got it out with a razor knife. I guess I will have to call county chrysler back and see if they have that seal. I called today for prices on all of the weatherstripping for the door windows, and the inner belts are 17, outers are 19 and 23 (wtf?) and the 1 that seals in the fixed wing windows are 79 each side :grrrr:

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