Rockfrog Posted September 4, 2016 Author Share Posted September 4, 2016 Yeah already did that, just need to add the wiring. Picked up some pigtails for them off eBay a while back so they'll be a simple plug in once wired. Got tired of staring at two dark holes ... Was beginning to think I should turn them into intake ducts ... So I filled them before I got all "Honda up in here". Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 I missed your JK bumper.......... :doh: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted September 5, 2016 Author Share Posted September 5, 2016 They should be fairly easy to add to near any bumper. When you have a set in your hands they have a flat mount on the bracket. Making a spacer to set them back accordingly would be the hardest part. The stock brackets even have an aiming mechanism (up and down). I'm probably going to fill them with a set of LED bulbs and use them for DRL's. Now I just have to figure out what to do with the rear bumper .... Taking it off is going to be a fight, and it's banged up to hell and back. Not sure if it'll come off cleanly enough to be fixable. The receiver hitch sandwiches it in and I'm daily certain at least 6-8 bolts are going to give me hell coming off. If they don't snap outright. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted September 6, 2016 Author Share Posted September 6, 2016 Looks a little better with the lights in. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted September 19, 2016 Author Share Posted September 19, 2016 So ... Started tackling the ebrake cable, and decided I was going to swap the door seals at the same time. Well .... Things changed quickly after the carpet came up. It's not as bad as some others I've seen, but I'm going to have to tackle the drivers side floor repair eventually. For now I scraped, vacuumed, hammered, scraped and vacuumed some more. Ended up with four holes, one about a 1/4", and the rest around 1/8"-3/16" varying. But she's thin. After cleaning all the loose/layered rust ... I doused it all in Blue Steel rust converter, and then rubberized rocker guard. The carpet was cut out just below the center console so it spaced correctly. Waiting for it to cure before continuing with the ebrake cable swap. Door seal swap went well, and decided to change the interior color to a charcoal and light grey mix. Plastic trim will be charcoal, headliner, and parts of the dash will stay the lighter grey. Stuff was all grungy anyway, was never going to get it clean again without coarse sandpaper. Not sure how I tackle the door panels ... All charcoal, or a mixed pattern maybe. And a front brake line has decided to weep, so, YJ brake lines will replace those. Makes it ready for the front end work later on. Just have to locate my spare 89 down AMC knuckles to get started on the ZJ LP30 swap. Hoping to get the trailer out of the driveway soon so I can roll the truck forward and start the engine/trans swap. No room right now, tools are at the wrong end of a 24' trailer. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted September 19, 2016 Author Share Posted September 19, 2016 And now that it reaaaallly raining, turns out my rear window leaks, hence the water in the floor board ... Yay. Any suggestion on fixing that without pulling the rear window? Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88whitemanche Posted September 20, 2016 Share Posted September 20, 2016 And now that it reaaaallly raining, turns out my rear window leaks, hence the water in the floor board ... Yay. Any suggestion on fixing that without pulling the rear window? Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk I guess to truly fix it right is to remove the whole back window...when I went from a full window to my sliding window the shop wire brushed it and added some rust inhibitor....the rust was pretty bad and I'm sure it's the reason for the leak in the passenger side floor board... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted September 20, 2016 Author Share Posted September 20, 2016 I squeezed some urethane into the gap under the rubber gasket. Pulled the edge back and globbed it in along both sides and the top. Hopefully that'll do the trick for now. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted September 20, 2016 Author Share Posted September 20, 2016 Got bored and wired up the lights while the last of the rocker guard dried .... Didn't have a switch I liked (want to use a stock style switch) so I popped the fan lead out, and wired the fog lights to the old EGR solenoid. So, I essentially did a simple DRL for now. Anytime the engine is running, the fog lights will be on. Eventually I'll add a switch, and install the fan switch where the ECT used to live to control the fan relay. But I got larger fish to fry right now. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted September 20, 2016 Author Share Posted September 20, 2016 Well at least I got goods light ... Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted June 10, 2017 Author Share Posted June 10, 2017 So this happened today. And looks like I haven't update poor old Ratmanche's build in a while or twelve. For the last few weeks I have been assembling parts, cleaning said parts and getting ready for the driveline swap. 2wd go bye bye, hello 4wd with flavour. Engine is from a 97 TJ, AX15 from a 93 XJ, NP 242 from a 92 XJ, front axle is from a 95 ZJ, added a 1.5" spacer to the fronts, seeing how it sits. If I like it I'll pull the springs from my XJ and swap them in. I have 6" springs to go into the XJ anyway. Lucked out and my JY ZJ CV axles came with new unit bearings, scored knuckles and brakes for $30. Tossed in new Ball joints "since I was" but I think I may have killed the driverside axle seal ... Have to see when I fill it up. Easy enough to fix later on anyway. Be while yet before she sees the pavement again. With this motor I chose to step back in a way. Used a 2.5L throttle body since I was curious how it would effect things. Seeing as it's the same bore as the stock Renix TB. Hoping I can get back into the 20's mpg wise ... something I haven't done since the 4.0 HO TB/head and 99 intake went on (been averaging about 18mpg with power on the upper end). Thinking I might help things by keeping the intake velocities higher going into the 99+ manifold. From what I've gathered, the 97+ dual pattern cam, and stock sized throttle body, should work with the newer manifold to keep the power down low, sacrificing a few HP off the top. I can live with that, I rarely push her past 3200 run anyway. Easy enough to swap back to the 4.0L throttle body anyway. And the 97 TB has the MAP mounted off the TB ... so two birds one stone if/when I swap it back. Still a bunch of interior work and wiring bits to sort (going to run the wiring through the 97's wiring channelfor a cleaner look). I want to clean things up under the hood. Might get to swapping a dash in (have a 92 parts XJ with a mint dash) but may jam and just get it driving again ... I miss driving my old tart. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted June 10, 2017 Share Posted June 10, 2017 Well, that's some major progress. I am curious how the fuel economy aspect works out. If it does, for research's sake, could you try swapping the bigger 97 TB on to see if it hurts it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted June 11, 2017 Author Share Posted June 11, 2017 With the 4.0L TB I ran on the previous motor, I was averaging 18mpg running between Duncan and Campbell River once a week. With the old Renix TB I was seeing 21 mpg on the same trip. Which is kinda what got me thinking. Easy enough to swao so I figured now was a good time to try. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted June 12, 2017 Author Share Posted June 12, 2017 Odd ... Double posted. Anyway, those newer injector connectors are stellar, simple squeeze and disconnect. No messing with a pick to snare the little retainer clip (never was comfortable just yanking those wires - just begs for an AMC harness nightmare). Much more secure and easier to get at. See pics below. Tapatalk is having it's way with me today it seems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted June 12, 2017 Author Share Posted June 12, 2017 Bit more work in the engine bay, went quadding over the weekend to "get my head straight". Just got back to the MJ today. Updated the injector connectors for those off the 97 TJ harness that came with the motor. Stretched the temp sender wire to the front, rebooted and stuffed it all inside the late model harness tray. The Renix harness is obviously routed a bit different and a bit shorter so I side tapped the tray (read cut a hole out the side). I'm hoping once I tackle the C101 I can route it all the way to the back like the last models do. Basicly a wiring day, still have to rewire the back up switch on the AX15. Just need to find out if the HO and Renix backup switches are both a simple switched negative or are they a positive/negative circuit (meaning I need to be sure on what wire goes where). Other than that and routing a new circuit for the 4wd light I should be ready to fire by the weekend. Amazing how much $#!& gets done when your employer of 23yrs sends you packing "without reason" ... Joy! Yeah, that was what they actually wrote. Once sentence. But, enough of that, we speak Jeep here. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted June 12, 2017 Share Posted June 12, 2017 Amazing how much $#!& gets done when your employer of 23yrs sends you packing "without reason" ... Joy! Yeah, that was what they actually wrote. Once sentence. Well, that's garbage. Hope you find something else soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted June 19, 2017 Author Share Posted June 19, 2017 So getting really close to finishing the engine bay. Just need to add fluids to motor, trans, trans case. Driveshafts are in, front is a bit too long, so I'll have to get that cut down before anything funky. Cleaned, painted and rocker guarded the crossmember and trans mount adapter for the AX15. Odd part ... The crossmember that was originally attached to my donor AX15, is exactly the same as the stock crossmember in my 88 with BA 10/5 ... I was always led to believe they were different. Bolted up just fine with a little wiggling of the driveline. Big question now is ... How to get the 4wd indicator light working. The 242 switch has a simple two wire switch on it (black and white, literally). Not sure if my 2wd 88 MJ is going to have a provision for a 4wd light. If anyone knows how to wire that switch in I'm all ears. Once I have it running it'll be time to gut the interior again, and start working on a dash swap (just swapping my cracked 88 for a mint 92 dash pad) and adding in the tcase shifter. Swapping a set of XJ Laredo wing backs (sadly they are 4dr seats) and building a proper speaker box for behind the seats (since I won't be able to fold them forward anyway). Again, another call for advice ... How to convert Laredo wing backs to folding forward ... Anyone? Is it even possible? Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted June 19, 2017 Author Share Posted June 19, 2017 Pictures to go with the above post. And the last two are of the rad in place with me bleed fitting. Since I had a TJ upper hose I managed to make it a slightly more streamlined version this time. Engine side is TJ, Rad side is stock XJ/MJ hose. And I started swapping in the dual diaphragm booster. Would up using the 98 ZJ version as it simply fit better with few modifications needed. The WJ booster I tried would fit up correctly due to the clutch slave hose and the firewall lip around the stick booster. Adding a 1/4" spacer didn't really make it any better. The ZJ booster (although physically near twice the size) fit right flush without the spacer (I had previously bent the upper lip up, but not the contour lip on the face of the firewall). So, now to make up bubble flare adapters. Might swap in the ZJ prop valve since I have all the pre-made lines though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted June 21, 2017 Author Share Posted June 21, 2017 Today's development ... Fluids in, all good to go. Battery in, no startup. It's got spark, and I tried to reset the distributor a couple times. So far I have been able to get it to run I keep the pedal pressed. So she's close. Won't run otherwise. Swapped back to 4.0L TB incase that was part of the issue. I'll get it running, then work the 2.5L angle. Any suggestions? Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DesertRat1991 Posted June 21, 2017 Share Posted June 21, 2017 Test the Throttle Position Sensor. You may have disconnected or damaged it while messing around with the throttle body. http://comancheclub.com/topic/11634-renix-throttle-position-sensor-tps-testing-adjustment/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted June 21, 2017 Author Share Posted June 21, 2017 I have it running, ish. If I give it part throttle it will run but backfires and runs rough. I might be a tooth off the mark this time. Too advanced? Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted June 22, 2017 Author Share Posted June 22, 2017 Well, this is as good as I can get it right now. https://youtu.be/_FrNDA1HzKg'> https://youtu.be/_FrNDA1HzKg It seems to be running super rich. I tried it with the O2 sensor unplugged. No change. It idles ridiculously rough, at first some of the lifters weren't pumping up. Motor (new to me) has sat a few years. It backfires out the tailpipe. The sucking noise is my PS pump running low (another day's problem). Before I called it a night I had full oiling at all rockers again. Is it possible there is a mismatch with the newer dual pattern cam and the Renix Dizzy. I couldn't get the dizzy as close to #1 as I remember being able to with the old motor. Guess I could knock the tabs off, set the motor to TDC again and set it dead on. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G00SE Posted June 22, 2017 Share Posted June 22, 2017 I wish I lived closer to you Rockfrog, I'd like to hang out with you to absorb some of your knowledge and experience with the MJ's to help with my build.... Enjoy reading your posts so keep them going... Thanks G00SE Sent from my LGLS990 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted June 24, 2017 Author Share Posted June 24, 2017 I fought the Jeep, and I won ... I fought the Jeep and ... I ... WON! Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted June 24, 2017 Author Share Posted June 24, 2017 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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