Open Diff Swap Or Convert To Limited Slip

[redwolf624]

i was thinkin bout convertin my truck to 4 wheel drive but it's too much of a cost for me right now when with gettin my taxes back next month, so i got to thinkin "let me atleast get away from my open diff" so i was wonderin what i can pull a rear axle off of and what kinda rear axle can i use with a 2.8 v6 and an AX-5 tranny, i currently have a dana 35 C with opens but i'm lookin for limited slip specially for when i do convert my MJ to 4x4, so main 2 questions, what axle would work with my 2wd set up now but also will work when i convert it to 4wd, and could a dana 35 C just be conveted to limited slip and still be good for 4wd?

 

Redwolf

[Eagle]

The factory offered a limited slip option with both the Dana 35 and the Dana 44 (and in the XJ with the Chrysler 8.25"). Jeep called it Trac-Lok. The units were made by Dana-Spicer and are readily available on the aftermarket. If you're buying new, the Dana Trac-Lok is the least expensive limited slip you can buy. It's also less aggressive than some others but, for street and moderate trail use, it's fine. I have Trac-Lok diffs in all my XJs and in the '87 MJ.

 

The Trac-Lok uses clutches (as do most limited slips), which requires an additive for the gear lube. If you find a Trac-Lok axle in a junkyard, it might still function but there's a good chance the clutch packs may be worn out. (They don't last forever -- 125,000 miles is probably the maximum life expectancy). Rebuild kits are available.

 

As with all MJ axle swaps, the easiest swap is going to be another Jeep axle because it'll have the same overall width. Unless it comes out of an MJ, though, you will have to weld on spring perches in the correct locations.

[redwolf624]

The factory offered a limited slip option with both the Dana 35 and the Dana 44 (and in the XJ with the Chrysler 8.25"). Jeep called it Trac-Lok. The units were made by Dana-Spicer and are readily available on the aftermarket. If you're buying new, the Dana Trac-Lok is the least expensive limited slip you can buy. It's also less aggressive than some others but, for street and moderate trail use, it's fine. I have Trac-Lok diffs in all my XJs and in the '87 MJ.

 

The Trac-Lok uses clutches (as do most limited slips), which requires an additive for the gear lube. If you find a Trac-Lok axle in a junkyard, it might still function but there's a good chance the clutch packs may be worn out. (They don't last forever -- 125,000 miles is probably the maximum life expectancy). Rebuild kits are available.

 

As with all MJ axle swaps, the easiest swap is going to be another Jeep axle because it'll have the same overall width. Unless it comes out of an MJ, though, you will have to weld on spring perches in the correct locations.

thanks eagle, is there a sepcial place to buy the dana trac-lok from or can any part store get it? also bein that the dana 35 was offered in limited slip could i convert my current dana 35 c to a limited slip?

 

Redwolf

[Eagle]

You can buy a Trac-Lok carrier assembly from any of the gear and axle places, such as Randy's Ring and Pinion, Dynatrack, etc. Installing a Trac-Lok will convert your open axle to a limited slip.

 

Just so you understand -- this is a complete carrier replacement, which means you are replacing the "big chunk" inside your differential. You will be unstalling a new carrier, new bearings, and new shims. It will require resetting the ring gear to pinion clearance and backlash. If you don't know how to do gear setup, don't fool around -- pay a professional (who has the right tools and gauges) to do it.

 

If you have to pay someone to do it for you -- it's cheaper to buy a junkyard axle if you can find one with the limited slip.

[87Chief]

Ford 8.8 out of most explorers

[Eagle]

Ford 8.8 out of most explorers

 

Which is too narrow, so it requires either aftermarket wheels or spacers, and it requires an adaptation for the u-joints. That's on top of welding on spring perches. And then you have to figure out how to rig a parking brake.

 

It's a decent axle, but it's not exactly a bolt-in.

[Blue88Comanche]

Keep in mind that if you buy just the LSD you will be getting a new gear carrier, that means the gears will need to be set up.  Best thing to do is try to locate an axle (D44, 8.25, or D35) that already has the LSD and have some one move the spring perches if needed.

 

If you know someone who can setup gears on the cheap then it's a toss up between the two options.  I paid $250 for a gear swap in the rear axle (not including parts).

[yxmj]

Before the debate goes too far perhaps the original poster could guide everyone's advice by giving 2 pieces of info.

1) what kind of budget do you have outlined for this modification.

2) what mechanical skill set do you have on a scale from 1-10....1 being the ability to change a tire and 10 being the ability to pull rear end apart and put it back together.  :dunno:

[redwolf624]

You can buy a Trac-Lok carrier assembly from any of the gear and axle places, such as Randy's Ring and Pinion, Dynatrack, etc. Installing a Trac-Lok will convert your open axle to a limited slip.

 

Just so you understand -- this is a complete carrier replacement, which means you are replacing the "big chunk" inside your differential. You will be unstalling a new carrier, new bearings, and new shims. It will require resetting the ring gear to pinion clearance and backlash. If you don't know how to do gear setup, don't fool around -- pay a professional (who has the right tools and gauges) to do it.

 

If you have to pay someone to do it for you -- it's cheaper to buy a junkyard axle if you can find one with the limited slip.

thanks for clearin that up eagle

 

 

Ford 8.8 out of most explorers

 

Which is too narrow, so it requires either aftermarket wheels or spacers, and it requires an adaptation for the u-joints. That's on top of welding on spring perches. And then you have to figure out how to rig a parking brake.

 

It's a decent axle, but it's not exactly a bolt-in.

noted

 

Keep in mind that if you buy just the LSD you will be getting a new gear carrier, that means the gears will need to be set up.  Best thing to do is try to locate an axle (D44, 8.25, or D35) that already has the LSD and have some one move the spring perches if needed.

 

If you know someone who can setup gears on the cheap then it's a toss up between the two options.  I paid $250 for a gear swap in the rear axle (not including parts).

thanks for the info blue

 

Before the debate goes too far perhaps the original poster could guide everyone's advice by giving 2 pieces of info.

1) what kind of budget do you have outlined for this modification.

2) what mechanical skill set do you have on a scale from 1-10....1 being the ability to change a tire and 10 being the ability to pull rear end apart and put it back together.  :dunno:

budget is unknown but deffently the cheaper route and mechanical skill is bouta 5,

 

Redwolf

[Pete M]

consider a drop-in locker.  2-3 hundred to buy, should install relatively easy. :thumbsup:

[yxmj]

consider a drop-in locker.  2-3 hundred to buy, should install relatively easy. :thumbsup:

 

My sediments exactly.....lunchbox all the way  :thumbsup:

http://lokka.com/site/

[Blue88Comanche]

Lunch box locker + c-clip D35 sounds like a lot of fun.

But I agree, I have an Aussie auto locker in the rear and I like the added traction.

They are easy to install and relatively cheap. Just make sure the ring gear is put back on the carrier on at the same spot.. Mark the gear and carrier with some paint, a sharpie won't really work.

Edited January 23, 2014 by Blue88Comanche

[redwolf624]

consider a drop-in locker.  2-3 hundred to buy, should install relatively easy. :thumbsup:

 

consider a drop-in locker.  2-3 hundred to buy, should install relatively easy. :thumbsup:

 

My sediments exactly.....lunchbox all the way  :thumbsup:

http://lokka.com/site/

Lunch box locker + c-clip D35 sounds like a lot of fun.

 

But I agree, I have an Aussie auto locker in the rear and I like the added traction.

 

They are easy to install and relatively cheap. Just make sure the ring gear is put back on the carrier on at the same spot.. Mark the gear and carrier with some paint, a sharpie won't really work.

could yall tell me more bout the drop in locker and the lunch box locker, i've heard of em cause my dad wanted to put a lunch box in his tj but i don't know enough bout em, how good would they be with a 2wd untill it gets converted?

 

Redwolf

[yxmj]

Read this

 

http://www.offroaders.com/tech/Lunchbox-lockers.htm

 

Pay attention to the links at the bottom of the page there are a couple of descritions of how to install one.

[redwolf624]

Read this

 

http://www.offroaders.com/tech/Lunchbox-lockers.htm

 

Pay attention to the links at the bottom of the page there are a couple of descritions of how to install one.

thanks, that helps a lot  :thumbsup:

 

Redwolf

[FrankTheDog]

Lunch box locker + c-clip D35 sounds like a lot of fun.

 

An 86 Dana 35 shouldn't have C-clips. It should have tapered roller bearings similar to a Dana 44 for wheel bearings.

It's still a 27 spline axle though so don't go hammering on it. 

A LocRite or Aussie locker will give you a lot more traction in 2WD.

[yxmj]

 

Lunch box locker + c-clip D35 sounds like a lot of fun.

 

An 86 Dana 35 shouldn't have C-clips. It should have tapered roller bearings similar to a Dana 44 for wheel bearings.

It's still a 27 spline axle though so don't go hammering on it. 

A LocRite or Aussie locker will give you a lot more traction in 2WD.

The OP's signature says it is a c-clip diff  :dunno:.....and from what my research shows the Lokka locker above that I link to.....is basically a different name for an Aussie

[HOrnbrod]

 

 

Lunch box locker + c-clip D35 sounds like a lot of fun.

 

An 86 Dana 35 shouldn't have C-clips. It should have tapered roller bearings similar to a Dana 44 for wheel bearings.

It's still a 27 spline axle though so don't go hammering on it. 

A LocRite or Aussie locker will give you a lot more traction in 2WD.

The OP's signature says it is a c-clip diff  :dunno:.....and from what my research shows the Lokka locker above that I link to.....is basically a different name for an Aussie

 

The "Dana 35C" in the OP's signature stands for custom, meaning it came from the Dana factory not completely assembled. The C has nothing to do with whether it has c-clips or not.

[yxmj]

 

 

 

Lunch box locker + c-clip D35 sounds like a lot of fun.

 

An 86 Dana 35 shouldn't have C-clips. It should have tapered roller bearings similar to a Dana 44 for wheel bearings.

It's still a 27 spline axle though so don't go hammering on it. 

A LocRite or Aussie locker will give you a lot more traction in 2WD.

The OP's signature says it is a c-clip diff  :dunno:.....and from what my research shows the Lokka locker above that I link to.....is basically a different name for an Aussie

 

The "Dana 35C" in the OP's signature stands for custom, meaning it came from the Dana factory not completely assembled. The C has nothing to do with whether it has c-clips or not.

Good to know....thanks for the clarification......so what is "custom" about that particular D35  :hmm: ....just because it came un-assembled  :hmm:

[HOrnbrod]

Good to know....thanks for the clarification......so what is "custom" about that particular D35  :hmm: ....just because it came un-assembled  :hmm:

 

Nothing is custom about the axle - they were all the same. It meant that the axle was delivered from Dana to AMC or later Chrysler as an incomplete assembly, then assembled at the Jeep plant to a complete axle unit with specified gear ratios, open or Trak-Loc diffs, etc. depending on the demand. Most likely to save $$.

 

Same thing as some of the Jeep export models designated as EXPs. They were shipped to certain countries as part assemblies then fully assembled at the host country plant.

[redwolf624]

 

Good to know....thanks for the clarification......so what is "custom" about that particular D35  :hmm: ....just because it came un-assembled  :hmm:

 

Nothing is custom about the axle - they were all the same. It meant that the axle was delivered from Dana to AMC or later Chrysler as an incomplete assembly, then assembled at the Jeep plant to a complete axle unit with specified gear ratios, open or Trak-Loc diffs, etc. depending on the demand. Most likely to save $$.

 

Same thing as some of the Jeep export models designated as EXPs. They were shipped to certain countries as part assemblies then fully assembled at the host country plant.

so what a minute horn, you're tellin me the C on my diff cover doesn't mean i have a dana 35C?

 

Redwolf

[HOrnbrod]

Yes, you have a D35C axle. C = Custom. You do not have a C-clip axle (if it's original). Those did not happen until 1990.

 

I have a 1991. When I had a D35 the housing was stamped D35C just like your axle. But since it's a 91, it has C-clip axles. Your's does not.

[yxmj]

FYI Red-wolf.....most would prefer a non c-clip.....so maybe you have better than you though  :thumbsup:

[FrankTheDog]

84-89 Dana 35's are non c-clip with tapered roller bearings and 10" brakes.

90-92 are C-clip axles with non tapered roller bearings and 9" brakes.

[redwolf624]

Yes, you have a D35C axle. C = Custom. You do not have a C-clip axle (if it's original). Those did not happen until 1990.

 

I have a 1991. When I had a D35 the housing was stamped D35C just like your axle. But since it's a 91, it has C-clip axles. Your's does not.

FYI Red-wolf.....most would prefer a non c-clip.....so maybe you have better than you though  :thumbsup:

84-89 Dana 35's are non c-clip with tapered roller bearings and 10" brakes.

90-92 are C-clip axles with non tapered roller bearings and 9" brakes.

sweet, things for clearin that up guys, i was convinced i had a dana 35 c, so does that change the lockers posted above?

 

Redwolf