Blaine Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 if i were to do that wouldnt there be a constant flow through the bottle? if so why couldn't i run hose from t-stat to lower core inlet then hose from upper core outlet to w-pump. it would be a full circuit. so whats the bottle for? reserve fluid or an overflow? srry for asking many questions btw just like to certain before i go and do anything Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 ok ok i thought about it, if i were to do it that way with my bottle it will eliminate that valve and if i were to over heat or what not it would piss out the bottle cap and not blow a hose off or worse. correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yxmj Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 Just my 2 cents......why don't you toss in a rad with a cap..and a reservoir (JY Cherokee??)....toss out the pressure bottle on the fire wall and the heater bypass valve...and your good to go with no problems. :dunno: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 don't have the resource right now, and don't feel like replacing a good radiator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yxmj Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 Understandable......maybe try to source something like this (or if you know a welder one could be made from a junked rad and a piece of pipe) http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/mor-63730/overview/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 nice, that would work this is a great ref. pic of what i might do, ive herd i should drill two holes 180 deg. from each other in the t-stat flange so that it can purge itself with this type of mod t, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 what i don't like is how does the coolant flow know when to flow through the core or the jug with them tee in there. like rockfrog said if i didnt put the tee in and just connected the upper jug hose direct to t-stat then lower hose to core and core to pump it would make a full circuit. i like that idea cause in this pic the coolant could still bypass the core go through the jug and to the pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yxmj Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 Ever wonder why they quit using that "Closed" system... :doh: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 yep, now i see. so what u think, use them tee's or just run t-stat hose to jug, jug to core and core to w-pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 There already is constant flow through the bottle. The valve is there to redirect it through the heater core when you turn on the heat. Otherwise coolant flows though the bottle ... it's a closed loop cooling system. It's not like the usual open loop system that runs an overflow bottle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yxmj Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 Sorry but to be honest the best advice I can give is get rid of that jug.....http://www.summitrac...63730/overview/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 And yeah .... now you know why I did mine the way I did instead of just replacing the rad. Well that and the seven cracks in the pressure bottle. Anyone need a good cap? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 to help visualize if i were to take all this cluster out and by new hoses could i run the *to t-stat* hose directly into the *upper hose* on the jug, connect *lower hose* into the core. then back to w-pump. so there would be no Tee's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 There already is constant flow through the bottle. The valve is there to redirect it through the heater core when you turn on the heat. Otherwise coolant flows though the bottle ... it's a closed loop cooling system. It's not like the usual open loop system that runs an overflow bottle. exactly so why did they use the tee's when u can just do what u said and make the circuit going through the jug see post#31 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 to help visualize if i were to take all this cluster out and by new hoses could i run the *to t-stat* hose directly into the *upper hose* on the jug, connect *lower hose* into the core. then back to w-pump. so there would be no Tee's Thats ecactly what I was trying to say earlier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 herd about this on here drilling the two holes the t-stat, how does that help get air bubbles out. does this affect the operating temp? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 i know, i know, srry. i understood how u wanted me to route the system i just didnt understand why i couldn't run it directly through the core, is it bec. the bottle will release pressure through the cap if it were to overheat and not blow a hose off or something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 anyone know about the questions in the two above posts #42 and 41 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue88Comanche Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 In 41, drilling a small hole in the thermostat will allow some air to pass through. On one of my more resent threads it was mentioned. There are some that have a little valve that does the same thing, but I could not get one from my parts store with that feature. So I went the small hole route. You will still need to bleed the air out of the system however. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 and how do u go about do that? filling the system, run my truck, check and refill and will them holes affect the warm up time and operating temp. ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 It goes like this (on a 4.0L but the heater plumbing is the same). I used all 5/8" hose here ... fits fine one circuit, bit tight but doable on the other. And no, the heat is not on all the time ... just saying Sorry to bring this up again, but i don't know if anyone answered this: how come i can't just run the hoses direct to the core like above, without running a return bottle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 Because your coolant expands at temperature. Without the bottle it will just go out to the ground. It could be done but you have to figure out the amount of expansion and under fill accordingly. That's how it was done decades ago. Just have to check coolant regularly. Its just not kosher to dump coolant into the environment. I originally modified a fast orange hand cleaner bottle at first ... sqeezed it in beside the air cleaner box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 oh duh, thanks for the input i guess ill stick with what was mentioned earlier in this thread and run through my OEM jug. and to properly fill my system after this mod, would i fill the rad. and my jug or leave jug empty for the expansion? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GirsMJ86 Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 Have some more pics, Blaine. Maybe this'll help shine some light on routing things. This is what I'll be doing to my '88 if it doesn't sell soon since I can drive it anyways until I replace coolant hoses, only I plan on grabbing a factory 91+ coolant bottle from a JY. http://comancheclub.com/topic/24848-open-system/?p=259597 http://comancheclub.com/topic/27068-closed-to-open-cooling-system/?p=278686 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 well i know how i want to route it, pretty much was explained earlier, but how would i go about filling the system. my plan is to run t-stat hose to upper inlet on my bottle, run hose from lower outlet of bottle to heater core, and the core back to w-pump. so with this mod would i just fill the radiator, or do i fill the bottle as well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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