92tanMJ Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 Edit: 1992 4.0 ax15 4x4 - (already done the renix ground refresh) The Friday before last it was cold here and my truck, would not start. I took my battery to autozone and their tester was broken. I went home and used our battery charger. Well the next day I put the battery in and it fired up like nothing had happened. On this past Monday, I started up my truck and everything was normal, started up fine, was running at 210* and heated decently well for it being -15*F out (actual temp..I think it was -40 ish with the wind?) But anyways, I was driving my truck after it had warmed up for about 5/10 minutes and all of a sudden the temp spiked to 260*. And being that I was closer to my dads shop than my house I just opted to head to the shop. On the way there the truck died 3 times, each time it happened coming to a stop. Each time, the power slowly died out and then the motor cut out. However, I was able to do a "rolling stop" and clutch jump/jumpstart the truck running again. Once I got to my dads shop I got inside and the truck died. About three hours, later I filled it with coolant and tried to start it and nothing. I turn the key and the starter just clicks one. So I left it in there over night and was able to "thaw out" most of it. (My stuck door handle and stuff works now) So assuming that the overheating and dying are unrelated...I picked up a new battery and still nothing...The starter just clicks once.I was just wondering if anyone has run into this issue before and has any suggestions on where to start. Working two jobs and taking a 3-hour winter term class has me stretched pretty thin time wise…so I’m not being lazy with it, I’m just looking for suggestion on things to check. It sounds like the starter is bad, or something related to that because of the starter just clicking once. So I’m going to make sure the motor turns over by hand first, and then I’m going to check the batter cable at the starter and on the block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 1. over heating issue could be a bad head gasket, had same problem, would overheat and my power dropped and then dead. it took a while before the gasket completely went and i couldn't even have my truck running in the drive way without it overheating. 2. try beating on the starter with a hammer, don't bash it but give it a good few hits and then try and start it, i shut my truck off at a McDonalds and wen't to start, just clicked, try jumping it, nothing, beat on the stater, hey it started. might work, might not, worth a try Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92tanMJ Posted January 9, 2014 Author Share Posted January 9, 2014 1. over heating issue could be a bad head gasket, had same problem, would overheat and my power dropped and then dead. it took a while before the gasket completely went and i couldn't even have my truck running in the drive way without it overheating. 2. try beating on the starter with a hammer, don't bash it but give it a good few hits and then try and start it, i shut my truck off at a McDonalds and wen't to start, just clicked, try jumping it, nothing, beat on the stater, hey it started. might work, might not, worth a try I just rebuild is this past summer. I doubt that's the issue. Ive put on over 2k miles since then...but who knows its a Jeep right? I think my radiator has a small leak, but I'm not 100% sure. I did just replace the t-stat gasket because it was leaking..(incorrect install on my part, didnt wait long enough to flush the system) I have a brand spanking $130 ( :fs1: ) new battery so a jump shouldnt do anything. And the only reason I havent done that is because it JUST happened like no previous signs of being bad...like slow start, multiple trys, etc...but Ive never had one go bad (yet). But thanks for the reply, I'll add tapping on it to my list before buying a new one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oyaji Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 If you had marginal antifreeze for the extra-cold temperature that day, your radiator could have frozen while driving, blocking coolant flow and causing the engine to overheat. Regarding the starter problem, if tapping on it nets no results, turn the engine a bit by hand and try the starter again - sometimes the starter gear is off just enough to not want to engage the flywheel, and a lilltle movement is all that's needed to get it to engage properly. If still no-go, check the connections all the way down the current path to the starter, both positive and ground (including the starter mounting). Once you have the starter able to turn the engine, if it still won't start, it's time to troubleshoot - and don't skip a compression check. You might have gotten it really hot... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 As Oyaji suggested, try to turn the engine by hand. Do NOT assume that the overheating and no start are unrelated. The one followed IMMEDIATELY after the other, so they most likely are related. My guess is that by continuing to drive when you knew you were overheated, you seized the engine. If I'm correct, you now have a boat anchor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 I was driving my truck after it had warmed up for about 5/10 minutes and all of a sudden the temp spiked to 260*. And being that I was closer to my dads shop than my house I just opted to head to the shop. On the way there the truck died 3 times, each time it happened coming to a stop. Each time, the power slowly died out and then the motor cut out. However, I was able to do a "rolling stop" and clutch jump/jumpstart the truck running again. Once I got to my dads shop I got inside and the truck died. About three hours, later I filled it with coolant and tried to start it and nothing. I turn the key and the starter just clicks one. So I left it in there over night and was able to "thaw out" most of it. (My stuck door handle and stuff works now) So assuming that the overheating and dying are unrelated...I picked up a new battery and still nothing...The starter just clicks once. As Oyaji suggested, try to turn the engine by hand. Do NOT assume that the overheating and no start are unrelated. The one followed IMMEDIATELY after the other, so they most likely are related. My guess is that by continuing to drive when you knew you were overheated, you seized the engine. If I'm correct, you now have a boat anchor. This is what you need to do before anything else, if you can't turn that engine over with a breaker bar on the harmonic balancer bolt with relative easy then i am afraid Eagle's diagnosis is right and you now have yourself once serious paper weight. :( After all metal expands when it gets hot. That is propably why the power slowly died when coming to a stop. The tolerances were becoming so tight within the cylinders that engine couldnt physically keep running. Your lucky you made it as far as you did. I certainly hope that me and Eagle are wrong, but i have a bad feeling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92tanMJ Posted January 9, 2014 Author Share Posted January 9, 2014 Yeah, me too...Although the whole trip was less than 10 minutes. I have seen 4.0 take a beating..but we'll see tomorrow probably. I just havent had time to dick with it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted January 10, 2014 Share Posted January 10, 2014 it surely does take a beating, mine got so hot it was literally making metal on metal noises, with power loss, i came to a stop let it cool down and the damn thing started and ran and got me where i needed to go. i thought i had seized mine that day, thank god i didnt. hope it turns over for yea bud Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92tanMJ Posted January 11, 2014 Author Share Posted January 11, 2014 "So I’m going to make sure the motor turns over by hand first, and then I’m going to check the batter cable at the starter and on the block." I checked the motor and she cranks over by hand super easy no issues. So to continue with my train of thought, I'm going to check the positive cables (since the started clicks, the negatives are good), and if the cables are good then I'm going to toss in a new battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 I checked the motor and she cranks over by hand super easy no issues. So to continue with my train of thought, I'm going to check the positive cables (since the started clicks, the negatives are good), and if the cables are good then I'm going to toss in a new battery. Awesome opossum :thumbsup: very glad to hear that it wasnt what we all feared. Just for good measure when inspecting your battery cables, i would take the time and solder on some heavy truck battery terminal clamps. They are made out of hard aluminum not soft lead so they make a really nice and tight connection. I also like them better because can be removed and retightened dozens of times without breaking/cracking like the crappy lead terminals Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 I checked the motor and she cranks over by hand super easy no issues. So to continue with my train of thought, I'm going to check the positive cables (since the started clicks, the negatives are good), and if the cables are good then I'm going to toss in a new battery. Awesome opossum :thumbsup: very glad to hear that it wasnt what we all feared. Just for good measure when inspecting your battery cables, i would take the time and solder on some heavy truck battery terminal clamps. They are made out of hard aluminum not soft lead so they make a really nice and tight connection. I also like them better because can be removed and retightened dozens of times without breaking/cracking like the crappy lead terminals How do you solder copper to aluminum? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimoshel Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 You don't. You crimp them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 You don't. You crimp them. Correct. Look at the photo of the two straight connectors. The barrels are marked "1st Crimp" and "2nd Crimp" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 Awesome opossum :thumbsup: very glad to hear that it wasnt what we all feared. Just for good measure when inspecting your battery cables, i would take the time and solder on some heavy truck battery terminal clamps. They are made out of hard aluminum not soft lead so they make a really nice and tight connection. I also like them better because can be removed and retightened dozens of times without breaking/cracking like the crappy lead terminals You said it........:P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 I actually do solder on my cables to lugs, then use brass clamps. Much easier for me to disconnect and clean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 You can't solder aluminum terminals to copper cables except with a torch and lots of flux. Even then it will be a unreliable connection as corrosion will eventually result between the two dissimilar metals. This was proven beyond doubt back in the 60s and 70s when copper prices were crazy and contractors started using aluminum wire for new building construction. Lots of fires and lawsuits resulted. Agree with Jeep Driver; except crimping and soldering copper cable to copper lugs, then using brass clamps is even better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted January 12, 2014 Share Posted January 12, 2014 I will be honest i don't know a thing about soldering. I just took the terminal clamps, heated them up in my forge (same could be done with a torch), filled them to the brim with molten solder, and then jammed the cable ends down into the cups filled with molten solder. Obviously i stripped the cables back a half inch or so. After cooling, they seem to be bonded together just about as good as anything, no crimping involved, never even crossed my mind actually. They guys at the auto parts store, who are exceptionally knowledgeable, didnt even mention crimping. Sooooo :dunno: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92tanMJ Posted January 12, 2014 Author Share Posted January 12, 2014 Well in my case it was the factory starter that gave out....a moment of silence for her 22 years of service. I got a little bit excited when I saw it was made in cinci lol These are the terminals I use, I cut the POS stock ones off a long time ago. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Metra-Electronics-Stock-Gold-plated-positive-battery-block-terminal/_/N-25hn?itemIdentifier=374187_0_0_ http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Metra-Electronics-Stock-Gold-plated-negative-battery-block-terminal/_/N-25hn?itemIdentifier=388120_0_0_ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted January 12, 2014 Share Posted January 12, 2014 see something simple, exactly why i said tap on the starter to begin with, the brushes get crappy and stick and a little tapping freeing them enough to start the engine. That's what i did to see if my starter went bad and it was. all my truck did was click but as soon as i tapped on it it turned over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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