dotis Posted April 15, 2007 Share Posted April 15, 2007 Got my truck running it had sat for a year, after some fixing it runs great, I put a hundred or so miles on it, and it runs good, so yesterday I decided to change the oil and filter, did so every thing was great for 5 miles or so then my valvetrain started making a lot of tapping noise, I know they make some noise normaly, but why did it start up after I changed oil and filter, I used Napa 10W40 and Fram filter. Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dotis Posted April 15, 2007 Author Share Posted April 15, 2007 It's a 1986 2.5, 5 speed BTW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87manche Posted April 15, 2007 Share Posted April 15, 2007 change the filter. the general consensus is that fram sucks. I personally had valvetrain noise in a chryco 2.5, changed to a Wix filter and it went away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted April 15, 2007 Share Posted April 15, 2007 the general consensus is that fram sucks. :huh???: the truth is that fram sucks. Oil filters at least. I'd try getting rid of that filter and then go from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted April 15, 2007 Share Posted April 15, 2007 Yes...change that filter. Fram is known for bad oil flow/pressure due to poor construction. If that does not do it, I had the same "valve noise" issue when I bought mine and it turned out to be a broken valve spring. The guy sold it cheap because he was told it needed $1500 worth of engine work ;) :D ...but I knew better . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 the general consensus is that fram sucks. :huh???: the truth is that fram sucks. Oil filters at least. I'd try getting rid of that filter and then go from there. Does it really matter that much? I mean, I'm one of those guys that says 'oil is oil...' and mixes brands. I run fram filters because they are cheap and have the grippy part on them so I can change my oil easier every year or two. I did notice the MJ had some hardcore valve noise on startup last week. Or maybe the idler pulley is trying to seize again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 I guess it doesn't matter much until it's your truck on the side of the road with 0 oil pressure. :( Been there, done that, learned my lesson about cheap filters. Oil is oil, but you really do get something for your money when it comes to filters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87manche Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 the general consensus is that fram sucks. :huh???: the truth is that fram sucks. Oil filters at least. I'd try getting rid of that filter and then go from there. Does it really matter that much? I mean, I'm one of those guys that says 'oil is oil...' and mixes brands. I run fram filters because they are cheap and have the grippy part on them so I can change my oil easier every year or two. I did notice the MJ had some hardcore valve noise on startup last week. Or maybe the idler pulley is trying to seize again. yes it does. My first car was a plymouth sundance, with the chryco 2.5L first oil change I did was with a fram filter cause I didn't know any better. After that oil change it had nasty valvetrain noise at startup and higher RPMs. Changed out the filter and the oil again, noise went away. Obviously the fram was limiting oil flow to the top end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fiscus Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 I am not sure about limiting flow during driving, but I am 100% sure that Fram oil filters have no check valve & allow all the oil that should be collected in the oil pump & filter (for the next time you start your motor) to flow backwards into the pan while the truck is off, essentially starving your motor of oil for the first fews seconds EVERY time you start it up. A buddy had a new Fram filter on his XJ (didn't know better & had noises on startup), we went to take it off to replace it (not 2 minutes after the truck was turned off) and it was COMPLETELY empty of oil when we removed it. Fram also makes the Wal-Mart Generic brand & a couple other filters under different names. I would start cheap by spending another $12 to change your oil again & put a quality filter on this time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87manche Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 that was a problem with the one on the sundance as well. cold starts were horrendously noisy, but after I dissected it, I saw what the problem was. The cardboard that held the element open was not assembled correctly, and so half the filter element was collapsed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 I am not sure about limiting flow during driving, but I am 100% sure that Fram oil filters have no check valve & allow all the oil that should be collected in the oil pump & filter (for the next time you start your motor) to flow backwards into the pan while the truck is off, essentially starving your motor of oil for the first fews seconds EVERY time you start it up. A buddy had a new Fram filter on his XJ (didn't know better & had noises on startup), we went to take it off to replace it (not 2 minutes after the truck was turned off) and it was COMPLETELY empty of oil when we removed it. Fram also makes the Wal-Mart Generic brand & a couple other filters under different names. I would start cheap by spending another $12 to change your oil again & put a quality filter on this time. ... :nuts: i've used a few different types of filters and fram at least twice... but every single time i pull that stupid thing off it dumps 1/4 quart on the UCA and the ground. :headpop: they must be hit and miss bad... i try to buy Wix whenever possible or purolator i wish there was some way to change it without it getting everywhere Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87manche Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 http://madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/techni ... ersion.htm new style oil filter is horizontal, and you can run a larger filter with the SAE thread, rather than our odd metric one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjcanoe Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 Get rid of the Fram! May not be only issue, but for a LONG time now, they are not worth $'s. I've used Wix for over 17 years & NEVER had a failure. If you decide to change to another (WIX) & problem persist's, check oil pressure @ sender/switch fitting w/ manual guage. Lifters are last to be "fed" if I remember correctly, therefore suffer most fron inadequate pressure when pressure marginal. mjcanoe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted April 17, 2007 Share Posted April 17, 2007 why did it start up after I changed oil and filter, I used Napa 10W40 and Fram filter. Any ideas? Because you used a FRam filter, of course. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjcanoe Posted April 17, 2007 Share Posted April 17, 2007 Dotis, You don't need, MUST HAVE OIL PRESSURE when turning key to start/crank position. Engine oil pump will actually begin to generate oil pressure during start/crank mode. If filter bad or extreme wear in pump, crank or cam brgs, even occasional restriction, engine will almost immediatley begin to "make" some kind of noise, upper or lower. their is no "failsafe" pressure switch. mjcanoe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dotis Posted April 17, 2007 Author Share Posted April 17, 2007 Well, I have never experienced this before, but the oil filter guys were right, I swapped the filter from the fram, used a purolater, drove to work this morning and half way here, it just quieted down and is Much more reasonable. I still have some noise, but it is what I believe is normal, 100% better, thanks for all the input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjcanoe Posted April 17, 2007 Share Posted April 17, 2007 Dotis, Good for you. Don't know where you live or mileage on mj, but BG products make a good engine crankcase flush. I've had great success w/it in "degunking" engines. Also maybe a 20w-50 during summer mos. if in cold clime. Take care, mjcanoe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87manche Posted April 17, 2007 Share Posted April 17, 2007 I run a good 10w40 in the summer, and switch to 10w30 in the winter. 20w50 sent my oil pressures far too high, I was worried. If you plan on changing oil viscosities, and have just the dummy light, you might want to put a mechanical guage on there. With 20w50 my guage was over at 70 psi of pressure on startup, a bit much for my liking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duner Posted April 17, 2007 Share Posted April 17, 2007 Wow never really thought about the oil filter, you buy new parts and expect them to perform their jobs properly but my dad told me that he has had bad sparkplugs before from both champion and autolite with no visible damage to the plugs that just failed to spark. So I guess the oil filter is the same crap shoot and difficult to diagnose if the truck had been sitting for a year - change oil/filter start up and have problem, I would assume that the prolonged period of non-operatiion had caused the problem and not the oil filter. I will change brands just to be on the safe side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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