Jump to content

Help Wiring A Push Button Start Kit.

Zebvance
 Share

Recommended Posts

Zebvance MJ Junkie

Zebvance

Posted
Posted

My ignition solenoid locked up and I'm tired of dealing with it. I broke the key off in it in the on position. Therefore the steering lock issue shouldn't be a problem. I ordered this kit off ebay, and what do you know, no instructions. I know its universal but I at least expected to get a spec sheet on the switches. ya know like hook hot wire to this terminal and hook ignition wire to this one. Any way. I have taken picture of the kit I have. I am Area i need to hook up a switch to turn the ACC on the hit the start to start it. But how do I turn the jeep off? Hit the start again? Anyway I'm a little bit lost with this. I also want to wire a kill switch under the dash or something if someone does get into the jeep so they won't steal it. Shouldn't be a big issue anyway because when its not being wheeled it in the garage. I have looked around for some thread on this and haven't had much luck finding the info I need. I need to know what color wires are the ones i need in the steering column and what they do. I did find one thread on cherokeefourm but after more research seems it may not be right. Anyway pictures of wiring or anything else along with help would be greatly appreciated!!! Oh and have a 1988 Jeep MJ 4.0 auto.

 

The Kit:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/290789202248?_trksid=m570.p2045573.l4769&_trkparms=ga1m%3DT14%26ga2m%3DT11%26ga3m%3DT1%26ga4m%3DT3

 

 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Eagle Obsessive Comanche Disorder

Eagle

Posted
Posted

For starters (no pun intended), you didn't break your solenoid, because the solenoid is monted on the starter motor. You also didn't break your starter relay, because that's under the hood.  So you either broke your starter switch (which is located at the bottom of the steering column), or you broke the ignition key cylinder (which is mounted near the top of the steering column, where you insert the key.

 

Your kit includes two single-pole, single-throw toggle switches, one of which has a safety cover; a starter button (which is also basically a single-pole, momentary-contact switch); and two relays.

 

You don't probably need the two relays, since you already have a starter relay and a fuel pump relay in the vehicle that you can tap into. Basically, you'll use one of the toggle switches to power the fuel pump (through its relay) and the other toggle switch to power the ignition. The push button will power the starter. This presents three questions:

 

1) One of your toggle switches has a safety cover, which is to prevent accidental operation. Is it more important for that to be connected to the fuel pump, or to the ignition?

 

2) How do you control power to the accessory circuits?

 

3) How do you shut everything off?

 

So maybe you use the unprotected toggle switch to control the accessories, and the protected toggle switch to control both the ignition and the fuel pump. That would essentially mimic the factory setup. And you would be shutting things off by turning off the toggle switches. Turn off the switch controlling the ignition and fuel pump, and the engine stops. Turn off the other switch, and there's no power to the accessories.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Zebvance MJ Junkie

Zebvance

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I'm sorry should of clarify. The ignition cylinder is broken. From my understanding everything that turns on when you turn the key to the ACC position is suppose to turn on when you flip the protected switch. and then when you hit the start button it completes the same connection that the ignition cylinder does when you turn the key one more notch forward to crank it. The kit I have has one extra switch on it. A ton of the other ones just have the protected switch and the start button.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
gogmorgo Obsessive Comanche Disorder

gogmorgo

Posted
Posted

By best guess would be that the protected switch is intended for your "ignition" position, (when you turn the key to "run"), and the other switch is just an extra. On our fsae cars we use two switches on startup, one for the "ignition" and the other for the electric rad fan. We do it that way because the fan draws enough that we won't be able to provide enough current to the starter motor with it running... it's a tiny battery.

If you're still running the auto, I suppose you could use it for the neutral safety switch, but I don't really see anything else you'd need it for. I'd just either leave it alone or else find something else to do with it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Automan2164 Obsessive Comanche Disorder

Automan2164

Posted
Posted

Seems like a ton of more work than just replacing the original switch... If you were hell bent on not replacing the cylinder... Hell, you could probably pick up a new column out of the yard cheaper than that switch assembly. Bolt in, and easy to do so. Since yours is an '88, if you would have gotten the column, door cylinders, and glovebox cylinder out of an '91+ XJ you could have done away with the 2 keys as a bonus.


Rob

Link to comment
Share on other sites
zagscrawler Comanche Aficionado

zagscrawler

Posted
Posted

I personally would use the protected switch for the regular ON position circuit, the unprotected switch for the ACC position circuit (incase you want the radio and other small features without the comp and fuel system hot), and of coarse the start button for engaging the solenoid at the starter.  To turn it off you simple smack the protected cover down and it kills everything like the stock set-up would.  Also like said above if you cut into the wires at the steering column you shouldn't need to use the relay that came with the kit.  I don't know the wire colors at the stock ignition switch so maybe someone else can chime in with them.  There are a lot of wires there and they will likely not fit safely onto a couple of spades for the new switch. You could probably use some Bus bars from any local electronic stores (radio shack) to keep it all clean.  Automan said it best I'm afraid.  Its not a real easy job like a column swap could be, plus you get the security of the key again.   good luck with what ever you do.  :cheers:

Link to comment
Share on other sites
neohic Obsessive Comanche Disorder

neohic

Posted
Posted

Seems like a ton of more work than just replacing the original switch... If you were hell bent on not replacing the cylinder... Hell, you could probably pick up a new column out of the yard cheaper than that switch assembly. Bolt in, and easy to do so. Since yours is an '88, if you would have gotten the column, door cylinders, and glovebox cylinder out of an '91+ XJ you could have done away with the 2 keys as a bonus.

 

Rob

 

^Truth.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Eagle Obsessive Comanche Disorder

Eagle

Posted
Posted

Yes now I am realizing that but I'm up for the challenge. I like the idea of the upgrade. I have faith I'll get it working. No I just need to find diagrams to the wireing in the colum so I can see what wire are what.

 

I'm pretty certain someone (maybe Hornbrod?) posted a link to the entire electrical manual for the early MJs. The wiring diagrams you need will be in there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
zagscrawler Comanche Aficionado

zagscrawler

Posted
Posted

After thinking about what I wrote about using the unprotected switch for the ACC power I might be mistaken about how you could use buss bars to get voltage to all the separate wires.  I will have to grab an old switch and see if I can test a few things.  I'm worried about backfeeding voltage from the ACC switch over to the buss bar with all the other main functions, like ignition fuel system..?? Even without the buss bars you could backfeed voltage to unintended circuits without some fancy wiring. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Zebvance MJ Junkie

Zebvance

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok so after looking through that. I'm looking on page 98 and am confused. Looks like the key cylinder has on wire hooked up to it. am I wrong. Trying to figure out what wire to splice into for the ACC switch. and the Start button. It shoult be two wires I'm looking for right?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
gogmorgo Obsessive Comanche Disorder

gogmorgo

Posted
Posted

It just occurred to me that the reason there are two switches is that the protected one is a "power on" (a bit like a kill switch) and only sends power to the other two.

 

The "starter" diagram on page 21 is helpful, but you might want to try the "power distribution" on page 8. Looking at that diagram:

JGacFGc.png

 

You've got five wires at the ignition switch:

RED: 12V in

Orange: Apparently goes to power windows and the clock?

Yellow: Gauges and engine controls

DK GRN: The starter signal wire

BRN: your horn, interior fan, cigarette lighter, radio, turn signal, wipers... etc.

 

Depending on what you want for "ACC", I'd connect the brown and orange wires to that switch, although it looks like the stock position is just the brown.

For "RUN", I'd go orange, yellow, brown.

for "START" you want the dark green.

You'd of course be taking power to all the positions from the red wire.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing
×
×
  • Create New...