AeroNautical Posted September 18, 2013 Share Posted September 18, 2013 I'm doing a pukey to ax15 swap, but am using the same cross member. I have a 1 inch t-case drop kit, so I'll need new bolts. The issue I'm having lies in two places. The stud that's in the frame, is it threaded or actually part of the frame? If it is threaded, the easiest way I'd imagine to remove it is to get 2 nuts to lock onto each other and just wrench it out. Next question is the third hole in the rear is not threaded. Since the cross member is moving back to that hole, what would be the best way to thread it? I've never threaded metal holes before, I don't want to mess it up. The bolt I removed already also has markings on it that don't fit sae or metric measuring. It looks like a crucifix with a number 2 below it. I'd guess it was grade 2, but that seems weak for a bolt that holds the tranny to the frame. Any help is appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParadiseMJ Posted September 18, 2013 Share Posted September 18, 2013 The stud question may be moot since you may have to move the cross member back...I know I did when I swapped the AW4. I cut the studs off and used the other set of holes behind it...I was going BA10 to AW4...I don't know if you'll have similar issues with the AX15. Is it longer than the Peugot?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimoshel Posted September 18, 2013 Share Posted September 18, 2013 There should be two studs. One on each side. Rather than cut them off I would remove them. You or the next owner may want to change something and will need the the hole. The double lock nut or a pair of vise grips should do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kolton Posted September 18, 2013 Share Posted September 18, 2013 Please don't do what my PO did to move the crossmember back... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AeroNautical Posted September 18, 2013 Author Share Posted September 18, 2013 I didn't want to cut it because I still need that hole. Glad I can remove it, but what about threading the rear hole? Bolt strength? Please don't do what my PO did to move the crossmember back... Cutting into a unibody doesn't exactly seem like the best idea, haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimoshel Posted September 18, 2013 Share Posted September 18, 2013 The hole should already be threaded. Use the bolts you removed. If they're in bad shape go to the hardware store and get new ones. Grade 5 minimum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87Warrior Posted September 18, 2013 Share Posted September 18, 2013 The nut in the frame is already tapped. But, it is probably rusted so badly the right sized bolt will not thread correctly. You will need a tap, 10-1.50 plug tap. This is the same tap you need for the rear frame bumper brackets and just about all of the other bolts in the 'frame'. When tapping, go slow, lubricate often and remove the tap on occasion to clear out shavings. Tap is on the left As long as the stock bolts don't break, this will be real easy. If they all break, that's just the way it works for me, you will have to drill out the bolt. I would suggest using class 10.9 (metric) for the bolt strength. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AeroNautical Posted September 19, 2013 Author Share Posted September 19, 2013 Awesome, thanks for the help. This really did answer all my questions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knkn9 Posted November 2, 2015 Share Posted November 2, 2015 I found this: http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1123213&page=3 Image Not Found Image Not Found Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted November 2, 2015 Share Posted November 2, 2015 Why do you want a transfer case drop? You don't need it, and it doesn't do good things for the motor mounts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackrabbit41 Posted November 2, 2015 Share Posted November 2, 2015 When I did my swap I had to move the cross member back a few inches so it would fit where those other holes are and then I drilled and tapped new threads into the holes. Then I threaded in some bolts and it's worked great so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikekaz1 Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 Fun fact. The manifold bolts are the same thread and length as the cross member bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schardein Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 Fun fact. The manifold bolts are the same thread and length as the cross member bolts. Not to stray to far off topic, but these^ also come with nice thick, large diameter washers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 The rear sets of holes on mine were not threaded. I made a mistake and threaded them to a standard thread size which I thought was the correct size (should of asked first instead of going off my own sense) and stupid me also made the mistake of threading my stock crossmember holes to that slightly bigger standard thread (don't ask why I did, I was very tired and upset at the time and wasn't thinking correctly) it really sucked putting the BA10 back in after my AX-15 ended up being bad. The bigger bolts made there be no wiggle room to line the holes up and thread the bolts. You live you learn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Htchevyii Posted November 7, 2015 Share Posted November 7, 2015 The rear holes on mine had holes with a round insert, but we're not threaded. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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