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H3Resq's Family Wagon Xj Build.....


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I'll start a general once over tomorrow, grease, check fluids, etc. Sliders are bunk, so I'll fix those. The gas tank does not have a skid, I'll build that. Otherwise, I just plan to wheel it. Hunted for some time to find one that should be capable right out of the box beyond general maintance, repairs.

Steering, and bracing for it and track bar are all new, lower front links are new, uppers are rebuilt, rear springs are new, shocks are new, front locker is new and all this within the last year.... Motor was built with new long block 70k miles ago.

 

I don't like the rear bumper, or body damage so down the road I might address those things, but that's more about what I like or don't like, etc. Point is a solid family friendly wheeler, not a show truck, badass attention getter. (The MJ does all that) This is all about camping and family fun, and strong enough build to handle it.

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I noticed that too! I looked close and there is no damage to the inside on plastic or anywere so considering the outside markings and that it creased enough to chip paint it probably was not due to that. Although I have seen that done before.....so who knows. I'm not to worried about it. I drove it all day today and put about 60 miles on it. Been flawless thus far. I'm happy with a great buy on a rig with good parts and a really beat to snot body....

There's an interesting crease where the front and rear passenger doors meet.  Was a winch line wrapped around the B pillar?

 

Willy

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Well ya brought a xj Hmmmm......

The last coupla weeks i,v been working on what to do with diffs and front end bracing. So i was qiute stocked when i seen you XJ post.

The question has been answered in regards to steering box, thanks for posting the link. Is the track bar brace from the same supplier ?

 

As for the diffs, Talked to Currie quite a while ago about building me D44 front & rear, they suggested a 9in for the rear which i felt a little funky about as the D44 is such a iconic

diff for the MJ. But now ya got me second guess me self. If i was to do the rear 9in would also do the front.

So whats your opinon on these units, whats the clearance like sump to pumpkin ?

 

Enjoy the xj with Kate and the kids, i,m sure this will turn into a full on buid weld in sliders etc

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Well ya brought a xj Hmmmm......

The last coupla weeks i,v been working on what to do with diffs and front end bracing. So i was qiute stocked when i seen you XJ post.

The question has been answered in regards to steering box, thanks for posting the link. Is the track bar brace from the same supplier ?

So the steering box brace I have no idea what brand. bolts to pass side and wraps around neck of box. The track bar bracket brace looks to be rubicon exspress , I'll take a picture of the braces underneath and post them.

 

As for the diffs, Talked to Currie quite a while ago about building me D44 front & rear, they suggested a 9in for the rear which i felt a little funky about as the D44 is such a iconic

diff for the MJ. But now ya got me second guess me self. If i was to do the rear 9in would also do the front.

So whats your opinon on these units, whats the clearance like sump to pumpkin ?

What is interesting is looking at the Shaved 9's next to the 44's. While the 9's do have more clearance (because there shaved) they are a much wider base. So ya the 44 does hang a hair lower but the contact are is only about a 2 inchs wide, the 9inch on the other hand while slightly higher is about 6 inchs across the bottom. So it ends up being a give and a take. To see what I mean look at the pic of them in the garage. Notice 44 is lower but lowest area is actually very narrow compared to the 9.  The 9's I have are both currie hi9's, they actually use a ford 8.8 ring gear so the ring and pinion is not the same as a normal low pinion 44. Not a problem on front axle since its on the correct side of gears, but in the rear it, I would personally do a low pinion 9, because the high pinion rear is running the soft side of the gears, So probably not even as strong as my low pinion 44 on my Comanche.

ALSO...if your daily driving and specifically commuting on long freeway drives it is not recommended to run shaved 9 housings. They will run a little hotter and do not lube as well as unshaved version. I think Currie specifically recommends against commuting with there shaved axles. Well that is my 2cents.

 

Enjoy the xj with Kate and the kids, i,m sure this will turn into a full on buid weld in sliders etc

Thanks, kinda gonna be nice having something I don't even worry about damaging. Ya, I will probably do sliders and gas tank skid first, then probably a legit rear bumper....

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Well I took it out with Kate and the kids last night. Just ran up to visit some friends that were camping. So for the most part just gravel roads. Did of course lock in the hubs and run 4hi and 4low just to check everything out. IT DOES HAVE A ISSUE up front. Its a new one for me so I will have to look into it a little more. I will probably bust the front axle completely apart after my trip in the MJ to Rubi/Fordyce.

Here is what is happening in case anyone knows the issue. When hubs are locked in and jeep is in 2wd, there is a very light clicking coming from BOTH sides of front end. You only hear it when turning in either direction, going straight there is no noise. Also when cruising down road in 2wd with hubs locked in randomly will pull one direction or other.

When I engage 4wd  It is quite going straight, once you start to turn in either direction it starts to click, its a very consistant click for the most part. Kinda feels like there is a bind, but I really just think the bind is usual to what you feel when front is locked up (This has a heavy spring Yukon limited slip up front)

I have already checked both U-joints and they ARE GOOD, checked the limited slip (one wheel off ground and used tourque wrench on wheel stud to get lsd to break loose(130lbs), also lifted front off ground and checked general rotation of tires while hubs locked in. It feels smooth and good, of course this is not under power though.

So basically in 4wd I get a clicking once I turn wheels in either direction but quite when going straight.

Any idea's guys? I have a couple, but will wait to say since I will be tearing it apart to see for sure either way. Really would like to know if anyone has had this scenario though and knows exactly what it is.

Cheeers, Jason

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So I went out yesterday and just drove it in circles a bunch in low range. I guess I exaggerated it as a pop/click type sound. Its more of a light bind and release type of feeling. Looked everything over real good and then just went ahead and tore into it. Everything is fine. What is going on is basically the springs stiffness is just right to be constant at the slip point of the lsd while turning, especially at low speed driving. I went ahead and put it all back together and will take it out for a run tomorrow and see how it does in actual trail situations. The end result is I will probably pull the LSD out and put an ARB in the front. I really want the easy steering and just be able to lock it on a need by need basis. Putting a $1000 locker in the front was not my plan for this, but to have on board air and nice steering, locker when I want it will be worth it. The biggest issue with ARB is that once you have one in the front of your rig there is nothing else you want. Until you have one you don't realize what your missing.....

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I just had a Spartan put in mine when I did all of my upgrades. I have had the same popping and binding feeling when accelerating around corners in 2wd or just take corners period. It almost feels like it quits turning until the pop. Had it taken apart and looked at and everything looks fine. Wish I would have just spent the money and got an ARB.

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Ya, a Spartan, ez-lock, Detroit etc. will have that. It is very common. Think of your locker like a freewheel/cassette on a bmx/mountain bike. When you coast it free spools and allows tires to move at there own speed. Once you put any power/throttle to it, it will lock up. The popping sound is just when your at a point were it is right in between grabbing teeth back.  So...the way to drive one is to just either be on constant light throttle around turn (but this will wear tires much faster) or coast turns until you straighten out. (this is frustrating because by exit of turns you going so slow) and then throttle.  If your don't have a smooth throttle foot through turns and in acceleration (especially in a manual trans) it will drive you crazy. You will figure out its sweet spot with time behind the wheel. There is nothing wrong with it.

I just had a Spartan put in mine when I did all of my upgrades. I have had the same popping and binding feeling when accelerating around corners in 2wd or just take corners period. It almost feels like it quits turning until the pop. Had it taken apart and looked at and everything looks fine. Wish I would have just spent the money and got an ARB.

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  • 2 weeks later...

The guy I got it from had it for about a year, so he probably dealt with same guy you did. It was a young kid he said.

I actually tried to buy that Jeep over a year ago for $5000, but the kid was a total flake and was acting real shady.

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Well Brandon and I had an adventure yesterday. We got to Evans, aired down to only 14lbs because well, I hate BFG's and don't trust there sidewalls, and second they are on a 10inch wide rim so they are bound to blow a bead. (anyone that wheels knows a narrow rim holds a bead much better, notice the little 7 inch wide wheels on my MJ)

Anyway, started running up lower 311 and the XJ does fine. Started running upper 311 and  Turned the tunes down and started noticing every rotation of the driver rear wheel would release a little air. Well, I guess I had not noticed the small slit in the curb guard. If this were the MJ I would simply have aired back up to 30psi and it would have stopped the leaking and we would have driven out. Well by the time we made it to the top of upper 311 we were running flat. What sucks it I FAILED, I know better but I FAILED. I didn't have a compressor, a spare, or my highlift. So....we made it out of trail and started the walk for service. Made it to the campground...I was able to get a text out and then we just started walking out. (we did have a backpack with cold water and snacks so we were fine, well except the fact were old and out of shape...lol.  Anyway we made it about half way to cement and Jamie came flying around the corner with my spare and the highlift off my MJ. The day saved. Took about 5 minutes to get the spare on. Point of story, go prepared. What should have been a 10 minute delay turned into about 4 hours and a sore knee and good nights sleep like a baby.

Just cause its Evans ( I consider easy wheeling ) or some old gravel road or whatever, always bring your stuff that you have. You just never know.

Anyway here are a couple pics. The XJ actually does really well, just had a bad tire....and confirmed again why I hate wide rims and BFG's...

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....and confirmed again why I hate wide rims and BFG's...

 

Agreed.  For some reason a lot of people have a love affair with BFGs.  I have no understanding why as I've seen them fail way more than any other tire on the trail.

 

Willy

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