Problem Reassembling Np231

[Oddmodman]

I'm putting my np231 together after the input upgrade, and it just won't quite fit. I had everything together except the output tower (whatever it's called), and realized that last c-clip snap ring thing wouldn't go on! So after cursing I tried to pull the shaft out a bit because all I needed was about 3/16 more till the clip's little valley was exposed. Gave it lots of love, but nothing will budge it. Wondering if I should put the ATF in, it that'll lubricate all the gears enough to budge it. I REALLY don't want to take it all apart. Took me all of today just to clean and reassemble. Anyone ever have this issue before?

[Oddmodman]

PS, the linkage is adjustable, it works, but adjusting it doesn't allow the shaft to budge either. Just something I forgot to mention.

[mvusse]

What year is your transfer case, and what year did the input shaft come out of?

[Oddmodman]

Tcase is '87, and input shaft is '90. I don't think it's the input that's the problem though. That went in without a problem. It's the main shaft that I need to move. 

[JeepcoMJ]

sounds like you've got one of the collars goofed up on the shift forks.

[Oddmodman]

I don't know. I inspected about 5 times before I put the two case halves together. I don't think so. I'll mess with it some more today. If I can't get it, I'll be forced to crack it again... :rant:

[Oddmodman]

Figured it out. So stupid. Resigned myself to cracking the case open after I had looked at the inside of my bad case. Turns out in my good case (the one I'm working on), I had put the lube pump on the inside of the smaller case half. It's supposed to go on the outside, in between the outer side of the smaller case half and the output tower!! So dumb. Btw, anyone have any methods of getting the old silicone off? I've been using a scraping razor, but it's only so effective, and I know not to use a steel wire wheel, though it's SO tempting. What do you guys use?

[JeepcoMJ]

I use a brass or stainless wheel on a drill.

[Oddmodman]

That's okay for aluminum? Even stainless? (I thought stainless was even harder than regular steel)?

[nitroxsteve]

I use a brass or stainless wheel on a drill.

I use the same just don't use a lot of pressure or speed and it will be fine. I also use a little brake parts cleaner on a rag to take off the residue.

[mvusse]

I use a wire wheel on an angle grinder. Like said above, don't use a lot of pressure.

[JeepcoMJ]

Stainless is harder, yes, but does a good job cleaning aluminum quick fast and in a hurry.

 

 

I actually use it to polish aluminum engine and chassis parts on my snowmobiles. No scratches, high shine.

[Oddmodman]

Huh. I tried with the wire wheel a little tiny bit and slipped once...big, deep scratches. So no more of that for me. Maybe I'll try your guys' method. I tried the brake clean with a rag before you mentioned it, but the rag soaked it up so fast it didn't work very well. It worked much better when I let the cleaner sit for a few seconds then scratch with my razor or fingernails, then cleaned it up with the rag. Anyway, I did figure it out, and it's back together for the most part. Still have to put the tower on. Thanks for the input!

[cruiser54]

Gasket scraper for me.

[Oddmodman]

I didn't know there was actually a devoted gasket scraper out there. Huh. Google! On a sidenote, I got the halves put together yesterday and realized I forgot to put the magnet inside. %$#@ :grrrr: , had to crack it open AGAIN. Now it's all nice and together  though  :clapping:.  Now I just have to find an absent slave hose thingie. Ugh.

[Bounty Hunter]

I use a wire brush, then follow up with brake cleaner on a rag to clean all the sealing surfaces.  Use the RTV very sparingly, 1/16" bead and spread flat with your finger.

[Oddmodman]

I think I used even less than that. Dad was very explicit about that part. Thanks :)