AeroNautical Posted April 4, 2013 Share Posted April 4, 2013 I'm not entirely sure if this is the right forum to ask for write ups, but I'm looking for a step by step guide for upgrading my idiot lights to gauges. I know I'm going to need new senders for things like oil temp and tachometer, but other than that I'm in the dark. Any help is appreciated. Sorry if this is the wrong section. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relyt120 Posted April 4, 2013 Share Posted April 4, 2013 here's how it goes.... 1) get new cluster and senders 2) remove dash bezel(theres a couple of screws above the cluster)carefully they can break 3) remove the screws that hold the cluster in, i think there are 5 or 6 4) unplug the cluster, if you have a renix unplug the speedo cable. to remove the speedo cable you may need to unhook the other end of it which is at the tranny, or just give yourself some slack from the engine bay 5) remove the old cluster 6) reconnect everything to the new one 7) screw everything back together 8) install new senders 9) enjoy :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onlyinajeep726 Posted April 4, 2013 Share Posted April 4, 2013 There's a little more to it than that... OP, what engine do you have in your Jeep? Also, what year and what engine was in the Jeep you took the full cluster from? The reason I ask is because if for instance you have a 2.5/4 banger and the full cluster came from a 4.0/6-cylinder Jeep, then you'll need to calibrate the tachometer. I know that a full cluster from a 1990 XJ/MJ is your best bet since there is a little potentiometer that can be adjusted to make the tachometer read correctly. I just did this swap about a month ago. If both Jeeps are 6-cylinders (either 4.0/I6 or 2.8/V6) then you're golden. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyav8r Posted April 4, 2013 Share Posted April 4, 2013 Hear, Hear! Well and briefly spoken, Sir Tyler! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AeroNautical Posted April 4, 2013 Author Share Posted April 4, 2013 There's a little more to it than that... OP, what engine do you have in your Jeep? Also, what year and what engine was in the Jeep you took the full cluster from? The reason I ask is because if for instance you have a 2.5/4 banger and the full cluster came from a 4.0/6-cylinder Jeep, then you'll need to calibrate the tachometer. I know that a full cluster from a 1990 XJ/MJ is your best bet since there is a little potentiometer that can be adjusted to make the tachometer read correctly. I just did this swap about a month ago. If both Jeeps are 6-cylinders (either 4.0/I6 or 2.8/V6) then you're golden. I've got a 4.0 and it came from a 4.0 90 cherokee, so from what your telling me, I should be good to go. Thanks. here's how it goes.... 1) get new cluster and senders 2) remove dash bezel(theres a couple of screws above the cluster)carefully they can break 3) remove the screws that hold the cluster in, i think there are 5 or 6 4) unplug the cluster, if you have a renix unplug the speedo cable. to remove the speedo cable you may need to unhook the other end of it which is at the tranny, or just give yourself some slack from the engine bay 5) remove the old cluster 6) reconnect everything to the new one 7) screw everything back together 8) install new senders 9) enjoy :thumbsup: This is exactly what I needed, thanks. However, senders. Where do I get em? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relyt120 Posted April 4, 2013 Share Posted April 4, 2013 Either from a donor or the parts store, I would say to get from parts store. I got my temp sender from the JY and I am a little skeptical about its accuracy. oil sender i got from parts store was like $30 I actually was having an issue getting the temp one now that I think of it since they try to give you the OTHER temp sensor or just a temp switch. if you can find it get a new one. Hear, Hear! Well and briefly spoken, Sir Tyler! :yes: no need to complicate something that should be pretty simple There's a little more to it than that... OP, what engine do you have in your Jeep? Also, what year and what engine was in the Jeep you took the full cluster from? The reason I ask is because if for instance you have a 2.5/4 banger and the full cluster came from a 4.0/6-cylinder Jeep, then you'll need to calibrate the tachometer. I know that a full cluster from a 1990 XJ/MJ is your best bet since there is a little potentiometer that can be adjusted to make the tachometer read correctly. I just did this swap about a month ago. If both Jeeps are 6-cylinders (either 4.0/I6 or 2.8/V6) then you're golden. :yeah that: you are right, I read his request for a "step by step guide to upgrading" as a request for a step by step guide for installation. Parts selection is indeed an important part of it that I neglected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AeroNautical Posted April 4, 2013 Author Share Posted April 4, 2013 Alright, let me get this straight. The only senders I need are: Coolant Temp, oil pressure and tach senders Correct me if I'm wrong, but because the idiot cluster does already read oil temp, speed, fuel and battery current, they should work right off the bat, right? I'm also curious if I can set the odometer to my actual mileage, or if that's more work than its worth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted April 4, 2013 Share Posted April 4, 2013 Alright, let me get this straight. The only senders I need are: Coolant Temp, oil pressure and tach senders Correct me if I'm wrong, but because the idiot cluster does already read oil temp, speed, fuel and battery current, they should work right off the bat, right? I'm also curious if I can set the odometer to my actual mileage, or if that's more work than its worth. Yes, the odometer can be easily changed on clusters up to 1990. 1991+ the odometer assembly is plastic welded together so changing it to match the current mileage is difficult. The other option is to just swap the speedometer/odometer assembly with the correct mileage into the new cluster. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=76857 There is no oil temperature gauge or sensor. Only a new coolant temperature sensor and oil pressure sensor should be needed. The coolant sensor that needs changed is the one on the back of the cylinder head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AeroNautical Posted April 4, 2013 Author Share Posted April 4, 2013 Awesome, I lucked out there, it's a 90 cluster. You know, I have no idea why I thought it was an oil temp gauge. Brain stopped working there for a second. The back of the cylinder head you say? I bet that's a fun one to get to. And for the tach, is it plug and play? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relyt120 Posted April 4, 2013 Share Posted April 4, 2013 tach is plug n place, and the temp sensor isnt bad to get to at all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted April 4, 2013 Share Posted April 4, 2013 But the temp sensor sometimes does want to break off in the head when you try to unscrew it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
armyofchuckness Posted April 4, 2013 Share Posted April 4, 2013 So, I just got a cluster out of a pretty disassembled Cherokee in the junkyard. The engine had been pulled, so I have no idea what it had in it. All the electronics and badges I found indicated it was from the AMC years, but given this went to Ma Mopar, I wouldn't be surprised if many of those parts kept getting used in later years. It was definitely pre'91 though. Would there be any way of telling by looking at the cluster what the engine might have been? I'm guessing since it was pulled, it probably was a 4.0. If that's the case, I'll need some fixin' for my 2.5. Would a local auto electronics shop be able to recalibrate the tach, or is that something I have to send to a specialty shop? Thanks for all the great info! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted April 4, 2013 Share Posted April 4, 2013 i got my temp sensor from rockauto and my oil pressure sensor at autozone. both are easy as hell to swap in. along with the new cluster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AeroNautical Posted April 4, 2013 Author Share Posted April 4, 2013 Well, here's a problem: Unless >90 clusters were different on cherokees, i think they labeled the year wrong. Is there a way around this or should I just look for another cluster with the correct hook up points? The cluster on top is the new one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimoshel Posted April 4, 2013 Share Posted April 4, 2013 That top cluster is from a '91 and up XJ. Not sure if a '90 is the same or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relyt120 Posted April 4, 2013 Share Posted April 4, 2013 you'll notice that the new one does not have Speedo connector. You can't change that unless you go thru the trouble of installing the newer Speedo sensor or whatever and wiring it in. I'm not even sure that would work but it definately wouldn't be worth it. You need to get one that is renix and therefore has the Speedo connector. Also the housing should be blue like your old one if they don't label correctly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AeroNautical Posted April 4, 2013 Author Share Posted April 4, 2013 Good to know, and what better way to learn than with trial and error. The pull apart I took the cluster from labeled the Cherokee a 90, but I think they labeled it wrong. Next time I go I'll swap it out with an older one, hopefully they won't charge again. I ran into another problem though. One that relyt120 warned me about. I reinstalled my old cluster, but the speedometer stopped working. Where on the transmission is the other end of that speedo cable? I just hope I didn't snap it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AeroNautical Posted April 5, 2013 Author Share Posted April 5, 2013 Quick update, found the speedo cable, but found out why it stopped working. On the trans end, it receded into the sheath. I tried pushing it from the back of the cluster, but it doesn't come out. I can see it and it spins, so I know it didnt snap. How do I get it out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relyt120 Posted April 5, 2013 Share Posted April 5, 2013 I'm not entirely sure but I think you may need a new one. Hopefully someone will have a solution for you but afaik thats not good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AeroNautical Posted April 5, 2013 Author Share Posted April 5, 2013 I'm not entirely sure but I think you may need a new one. Hopefully someone will have a solution for you but afaik thats not good. I prematurely posted, but I fixed it. Some of the shaft was exposed behind the cluster, I had to pull the sheath up flush with the back of the speedometer, and the shaft poked it's head out the tranny end. It works now, but for some reason at lower speeds the needle shakes like hell. But, as long as it's accurate, I'm fine with that. I guess the next step is to find an older instrument panel. I'll keep you guys updated if I need more help, and none of you know how much I appreciate the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relyt120 Posted April 5, 2013 Share Posted April 5, 2013 if i were you i'd be on the look out for a spare speedocable, when that thing fails you won't be able to find one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted April 5, 2013 Share Posted April 5, 2013 If the speedo bounces at low speeds it means there's too sharp a bend or a king in the cable causing it to not spin freely enough and act like a spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AeroNautical Posted April 8, 2013 Author Share Posted April 8, 2013 if i were you i'd be on the look out for a spare speedocable, when that thing fails you won't be able to find one I'll keep an eye out, thanks. The last few I've seen were snapped. If the speedo bounces at low speeds it means there's too sharp a bend or a king in the cable causing it to not spin freely enough and act like a spring. Makes sense, I'll try to straighten it out a bit. Thanks. Also, since I have no use for that newer cluster, it's for sale here: http://comancheclub.com/topic/38193-gauge-cluster/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AeroNautical Posted April 13, 2013 Author Share Posted April 13, 2013 Let's go ahead and make sure these are right before I dirty em up: From the looks of it, the temp sensor seems wrong. Think it's time for NAPA to update their computers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relyt120 Posted April 13, 2013 Share Posted April 13, 2013 wrong temp sensor, the one you want has no wires on it, thats the one the parts store will try to give you but its not right Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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