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Posted

I'm in the middle of repairing/replacing my floorboards, and I need to remove the frame stiffener that runs along the top of the "frame", and helps hold the floorboard down. How to I remove it?

 

Thanks,

     Sam

Posted

These should help give you an idea, your gonna need a mig too.

 

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/how-i-just-put-new-floorpans-patched-holes-xj-lots-pics-372669/

 

http://comancheclub.com/topic/24600-project-1992-michigan-comanche/

 

 

For me personally i used a single sheet of 12g cold roll and two sheets of 22g for the really tight spots with lots of bends. Also invest in a nice BFH, could not have done it without one

Posted

get yourself a  " spot weld " cutter ... harbor freight sells them    :banana:  . :MJ 1: .

 

No offense Miser but harbor freight sucks giant donkey bowls. Blair is the only way to go, but don't fall for the "fancy" versions, their most basic spot weld cutter is hands down the best.

 

http://www.blairequipment.com/Spotweld_Cutters/Spotweld_Cutters.html

 

Skip to the bottom of the page, "Blair Double-End Spotweld Cutter 13224" these are the ones you want. Make sure to order an extra set of replacement heads or else you will find your self waiting for replacements halfway through the project. :thumbsup:

Posted

I used the Harbor Freight spot weld cutters. I think I used 4 of them for those pesky frame braces. Cost was still less than the above posted Blair products.

 

The spot welds are a PAIN in the rear to find. There is no rhyme or reason for their placement so you must find them and curse when the brace doesn't pull up when you think it should.

Posted

Thanks for all the replies. It sounds like a fun time.  :shake: Can I just use a large drillbit instead of a spot weld cutter? I'm on a very limited budget.

Posted

Thanks for all the replies. It sounds like a fun time.  :shake: Can I just use a large drillbit instead of a spot weld cutter? I'm on a very limited budget.

 

Yes you can, It would be best to purchase a drill bit with a shallower cutting angle (such as 150°) so you don't drill all the way through the bottom layer. It is still very doable with a standard 118° bit, just takes more finesse.

Posted

only suggested the "harbor freight " ones ( ftpiercefirecracker 1 ) because  there readily available / close by ... yeah , you will chew up a few ... but it's better than nothing !  believe me , i only use harbor freight stuff when i absolutely have too !!!   :banana:  . :MJ 1: .

Posted

Ya the only reason i said what i said is because i too first used HF and i broke ALL of them within the first 2 spot welds. The teeth literally snapped off as soon as they made contact with the metal, :headpop: . When i got mine from Blair it came with three heads total which means 6 cutting sides, i still have 1 and a half good heads. And thats after cutting about 40 welds, for me personally i will never use anything else.  :thumbsup:  Blairs heads kept working even with only 3 teeth left on the bit.

Posted

Thanks for the replies all, I think I'll head to my local Harbor Freight and pick up a few of the cutting bits. I'll post end results in the pub sometime soon!

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