comanche1989 Posted March 23, 2013 Share Posted March 23, 2013 I'm in the middle of repairing/replacing my floorboards, and I need to remove the frame stiffener that runs along the top of the "frame", and helps hold the floorboard down. How to I remove it? Thanks, Sam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
'87 fuel-miser Posted March 23, 2013 Share Posted March 23, 2013 get yourself a " spot weld " cutter ... harbor freight sells them :banana: . :MJ 1: . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepComanche89 Posted March 24, 2013 Share Posted March 24, 2013 Drill out the spot welds Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted March 24, 2013 Share Posted March 24, 2013 These should help give you an idea, your gonna need a mig too. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/how-i-just-put-new-floorpans-patched-holes-xj-lots-pics-372669/ http://comancheclub.com/topic/24600-project-1992-michigan-comanche/ For me personally i used a single sheet of 12g cold roll and two sheets of 22g for the really tight spots with lots of bends. Also invest in a nice BFH, could not have done it without one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted March 24, 2013 Share Posted March 24, 2013 get yourself a " spot weld " cutter ... harbor freight sells them :banana: . :MJ 1: . No offense Miser but harbor freight sucks giant donkey bowls. Blair is the only way to go, but don't fall for the "fancy" versions, their most basic spot weld cutter is hands down the best. http://www.blairequipment.com/Spotweld_Cutters/Spotweld_Cutters.html Skip to the bottom of the page, "Blair Double-End Spotweld Cutter 13224" these are the ones you want. Make sure to order an extra set of replacement heads or else you will find your self waiting for replacements halfway through the project. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87Warrior Posted March 24, 2013 Share Posted March 24, 2013 I used the Harbor Freight spot weld cutters. I think I used 4 of them for those pesky frame braces. Cost was still less than the above posted Blair products. The spot welds are a PAIN in the rear to find. There is no rhyme or reason for their placement so you must find them and curse when the brace doesn't pull up when you think it should. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanche1989 Posted March 24, 2013 Author Share Posted March 24, 2013 Thanks for all the replies. It sounds like a fun time. :shake: Can I just use a large drillbit instead of a spot weld cutter? I'm on a very limited budget. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biotex Posted March 24, 2013 Share Posted March 24, 2013 Thanks for all the replies. It sounds like a fun time. :shake: Can I just use a large drillbit instead of a spot weld cutter? I'm on a very limited budget. Yes you can, It would be best to purchase a drill bit with a shallower cutting angle (such as 150°) so you don't drill all the way through the bottom layer. It is still very doable with a standard 118° bit, just takes more finesse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87Warrior Posted March 24, 2013 Share Posted March 24, 2013 You can use a drill bit, but then you may have several holes to fill on the lower frame rail lip (what the braces are spot welded to) http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eighth-inch-double-sided-rotary-spot-weld-cutter-95343.html $5 isn't too much. A good drill bit that will last through all of the spot welds will cost much more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
'87 fuel-miser Posted March 24, 2013 Share Posted March 24, 2013 only suggested the "harbor freight " ones ( ftpiercefirecracker 1 ) because there readily available / close by ... yeah , you will chew up a few ... but it's better than nothing ! believe me , i only use harbor freight stuff when i absolutely have too !!! :banana: . :MJ 1: . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted March 24, 2013 Share Posted March 24, 2013 Ya the only reason i said what i said is because i too first used HF and i broke ALL of them within the first 2 spot welds. The teeth literally snapped off as soon as they made contact with the metal, :headpop: . When i got mine from Blair it came with three heads total which means 6 cutting sides, i still have 1 and a half good heads. And thats after cutting about 40 welds, for me personally i will never use anything else. :thumbsup: Blairs heads kept working even with only 3 teeth left on the bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimoshel Posted March 24, 2013 Share Posted March 24, 2013 Remove all the paint first. Get down to bare metal. The welds will show up easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepComanche89 Posted March 24, 2013 Share Posted March 24, 2013 ^^this, and yes you can use a drill bit as i mentioned. Didnt even know a spot weld cutter existed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92tanMJ Posted March 25, 2013 Share Posted March 25, 2013 here's a good write up the pictures are MIA http://comancheclub.com/topic/12915-putting-floors-in-that-rusty-mj-or-xj/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanche1989 Posted March 25, 2013 Author Share Posted March 25, 2013 Thanks for the replies all, I think I'll head to my local Harbor Freight and pick up a few of the cutting bits. I'll post end results in the pub sometime soon! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted March 25, 2013 Share Posted March 25, 2013 Wish you luck! :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92tanMJ Posted March 26, 2013 Share Posted March 26, 2013 Wish you luck! :-) x2! We'll be waiting for you to report back! :popcorn: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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