dirty88comanche Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 after changing the radiator from hittin a telephone pole I'm still having some problems the stearing messed up i can live with, as well as the door hinges being @#$%ed on my driver side. but shes still over heating. i don't really have any mechanic skills, thats part of my joining the marines, but i know tools and can learn pretty well and a mechanic of 6years in the family. its my first truck and id like to keep it for the fact its my first one and its a hard find around this area in good condition. and mess around with it while I'm the military when i let it sit and idle for about 3 mins, the needle start to hit the red around 220ish, and any longer its in the middle puchin 260. along with this my coolent resivore bubbles and looks like its boiling and starts to leak out of the cap. its like its just pissing fluid out. i tryin to keep this running as a daily driver untill i ship out, or worst circumstance find someone intrested as a parts truck cuz the motor still hasnt hit 100,000 its at 98,700ish and going pretty strong. i don't wanna see her go to a scrap yard. shes too much thank you in advance for everyone throwin out some ideas and solutions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rokhound Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 are you sure you did not mess up the water pump or may be it is your thermostat or both Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 You may simply have bubbles in the cooling system. A technique for bleeding the 4.0L is to get the rear of the truck higher than the front (facing down a driveway, put the rear up on stands, etc). Doesn't have to be much more than a few inches of difference, but the goal is to get the bubbles to gather at the rear of the engine block. Now loosen the temp sensor (located at the drivers side rear at the top of the head) just enough to let air escape. I'd advise doing all this with the engine off and cool (so when you fire it up and something goes wrong, you aren't showered with 260* coolant). Now have someone fire up the engine and wait until the air stops coming out. Tighten up the sensor and add more coolant. Eye protection is strongly advised. Full face shield is preferred. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duner Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 Follow Pete's advice and bleed through the coolant temp sensor. I don't usually run the engine while doing this, I just open it up after the engine has warmed. Also check the radiator cap on your surge tank my MJ eats those things up. If they're not sealing it will never hold temp. Please don't give up on your MJ now the cooling issue is just a temporary inconvience. The closed system works well but does not tolerate any system pressure leaks and it can always be converted to the later open cooling system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mj2stay Posted March 22, 2007 Share Posted March 22, 2007 Going into the military, GOD BLESS YOU !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted March 22, 2007 Share Posted March 22, 2007 after THREE MINUTES of idling you hit 220... thats no cooling problem my friend, sounds fine to me. is your electric fan coming on when it gets hot? if not you can wire up a switch to turn it on. as long as you can drive without it hitting 220 you should be good, mine will kill 240 if i let it idle without the electric fan on, but the fan will keep it right at 210 (operating temp). check the pressure bottle for cracks, and after the jeep gets warm (but before the cap starts peeing) cut if off and listen for leaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ifixit8 Posted March 22, 2007 Share Posted March 22, 2007 it really sounds like an air bubble. bleed it and you should be good. and thanks for serving the country for us!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JOMJ87 Posted March 22, 2007 Share Posted March 22, 2007 Are you joining now or coming to the sand box??? If you are going to basic Let me know where you get stationed. You may be in SC or NC and we can wheel together... :cheers: Cole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirty88comanche Posted March 22, 2007 Author Share Posted March 22, 2007 about an hour after i put this up i got a call back from a shop. i picked up a new thermostat and replaced it. i haven't driven it since, but i hope it solves the problem. if not I'm gunna try the air bubble solution when the weather breaks a little bit more. thanks everyone for your help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87manche Posted March 22, 2007 Share Posted March 22, 2007 when you install that new t-stat, drill a small hole between the mounting surface and the pellet. THis will aid in the water pump displacing the air in the head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carnuck Posted March 22, 2007 Share Posted March 22, 2007 I park on a loading ramp with the nose on as high an upward angle as I can get and let it sit for awhile. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted March 22, 2007 Share Posted March 22, 2007 I park on a loading ramp with the nose on as high an upward angle as I can get and let it sit for awhile. some people take the temp sensor at the rear of the head out, and park with the nose down making that the highest point in the system while they fill it. that method usually gets all the air out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now