I Need To Re-Center My Steering Wheel

[Biotex]

I need to know how to get the wheel so that the big opening between the spokes is at the top. I added lift and track bar. Seems to drive nice, and we don't have a very good option for alignments in my town.

 

If I center it, then get an alignment, will it be off again? Or does the alignment shop take care of it all?

[87Warrior]

Adjust the toe via the tie rod.

 

....then

 

Adjust steering wheel center via draglink.

[sloride]

I wouldn't count on the alignment shop doing it for you.  I would get the alignment first and then pull the steering wheel off to relocate.  All you need is a steering wheel puller.  The wheel is splined with the shaft, just a matter of pull and relocate.

[mjeff87]

Shop should recenter the wheel as part of the alignment, but you can do it yourself.  Loosen the collar on the drag link (two pinch bolts hold it tight) and rotate the collar the same direction that you want to rotate the steering wheel.  Retighten the two bolts/nuts and you're done.

 

Jeff

 

edit:  realize that small rotation in the adjustment collar translates into much larger changes in steering wheel position.  You shouldn't need to adjust the collar any much more than 1/2 a turn to recenter the wheel...if you have to adjust more than that, something else is wrong....

[jimoshel]

I wouldn't count on the alignment shop doing it for you.  I would get the alignment first and then pull the steering wheel off to relocate.  All you need is a steering wheel puller.  The wheel is splined with the shaft, just a matter of pull and relocate.

 

Unfortunately many of the steering shafts are keyed and the wheel will only go on one way.

[jimoshel]

Shop should recenter the wheel as part of the alignment, but you can do it yourself.  Loosen the collar on the drag link (two pinch bolts hold it tight) and rotate the collar the same direction that you want to rotate the steering wheel.  Retighten the two bolts/nuts and you're done.

 

Jeff

This is the correct procedure.

[Biotex]

Thanks guys,

I was able to re-center it as posted.

[onlyinajeep726]

Get an alignment then adjust the steering wheel via that sleeve on the drag-link.  Centering the steering wheel will not affect alignment.  It only pushes the drop pitman arm thus turning the steering wheel accordingly.

[Biotex]

It only pushes the drop pitman arm thus turning the steering wheel accordingly.

 

 

Unless the steering wheel lock is engaged... :eek:

[Geonovast]

Even if you could pop the wheel off and put it on with it straight, that wouldn't straighten the steering box, and you'd be able to steer more one way that the other.

 

The turnbuckle is there for this purpose.  It's easy enough to straighten it after the alignment's done(which you can also easily do yourself).

[Eagle]

I wouldn't count on the alignment shop doing it for you.  I would get the alignment first and then pull the steering wheel off to relocate.  All you need is a steering wheel puller.  The wheel is splined with the shaft, just a matter of pull and relocate.

NO!

 

If you do this, the steering wheel will be off-center when the steering box is straight, and when the steering wheel is straight the steering box won't be. DO NOT DO THIS -- IT'S WRONG.

[Comanche County]

The steering wheel only goes on one way.  Like Jim said, there's a single large spline that keys in the steering wheel.  Older cars let you adjust it by removing and turning the wheel...my old mustangs were like that.  It was a bad idea anyway because you could end up with lopsided steering like Eagle said.  But on MJs, you adjust it as mentioned with the adjustment sleeve on the drag link.  Don't expect a shop to do it for you.  Most likely it will take a few tries to get it perfect which requires at least a few short drives around the block to see if the wheel is straight.  Most shops want you in and out as quickly as possible and won't do that.  A computerized alignment rack will get it close, perfectly straight sometimes but not always.

 

Align it yourself with a tape measure for toe and an angle finder for caster.  Adjust the caster with shims behind the LCAs.  Toe it in 1/8" and you need about 5-7* of positive caster (imagine the line running through the upper and lower ball joints like the rake of a motorcycle front fork, but steeper).  The lower ball joint should be forward of the upper, just barely. 

 

Don't worry about camber unless your axle is bent.  Only offset ball joints will adjust camber.