dinghyboy Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 It looks like I need to remove my oil pan. I have seen several posts implying there may be a clearance issue in getting the pan off if the truck still has original suspension height. One post had mentioned a method to do it, but now I can't find the post. I know to raise the truck and support it by the frame and let the axle hang down, what else do I have to do? Thanks for any guidance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 At stock height, it's worth it to just completely remove the front axle in my opinion. It takes less than an hour with basic hand tools to remove the axle and will save you lots of headache. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biotex Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 I may be wrong, but I'm thinking you would need to lower the pan enough to get to the oil pump bolts. Once the pump is off, the sump is no longer an issue. I personaly have not tried this approach, but I believe it is the method you were refering to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hitman72 Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 Just did mine the other day. Took me 8 hours haha. I did not take the axle all the way out just undid the lower control arms and dropped it all the way down. Then unbolt the bump and wiggle the pan out. 2 hours to get the axle out (not really working to quick) and in 30 min to get the bolts out 2 hours to get the pan off (had to work a razer blade all the way around) 2 hours toclean the mating surfaces rest to install the pan and all. Note: make sure pan is straight and that the bolt holes are flush. Rtv on the four corners. And its a great time to do the RMS. Any other questions let me know.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biotex Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 great time to measure the slop in your timing chain also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hitman72 Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 great time to measure the slop in your timing chain also. absolutely. found mine was a little loose ;) IMAG0174 by Dallas_Downing, on Flickr IMAG0175 by Dallas_Downing, on Flickr sorry did not mean to jack the thread OP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dinghyboy Posted March 5, 2013 Author Share Posted March 5, 2013 great time to measure the slop in your timing chain also. Just to show my ignorance. When you drop the oil pan, is the timing chain exposed? I would have thought I'd have to remove the timing cover to see that. How you check the slop in the timing chain. Do you just check to see if it's loose on the lower gear? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hitman72 Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 exactly, when you remove the pan it exposes the lower gear (just part of it) and some of the chain. Just enough to get your hand in there and move feel it and take a look at it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hitman72 Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 you will be looking from the rear, forward at it. If that makes sense. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biotex Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 Exactly, with the partial chain exposed, you can measure the deflection. The FSM lists the max deflection, and if you are beyond or at it, it would be best to plan on a replacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 I'm with Darren, with stock suspension, remove the front axle. I did mine a month or two ago with the axle in place, but my truck has a bit of lift. Use anaerobic RTV. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted March 6, 2013 Share Posted March 6, 2013 Why remove the front axle? Put jack stands under the frame behind the lower control arm brackets, remove tires, put the lug nuts back on over the rotors, and let the axle droop down to rest of the rotors. That will give 5+ inches of extra room. If the steering linkage gets in the way some from too much suspension drop then jack the axle up slightly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1987Comanche Posted March 6, 2013 Share Posted March 6, 2013 I may be wrong, but I'm thinking you would need to lower the pan enough to get to the oil pump bolts. Once the pump is off, the sump is no longer an issue. I personaly have not tried this approach, but I believe it is the method you were refering to. I've done this 4 or 5 times. Put a set of jack stands under the LCA mounts, let the suspension hang free, drop the pan, use a combination wrench on the oil pump bolts, and drop the pump into the pan. You can change the RMS this way in about 3 hrs if it doesn't require too much cleaning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now