Jump to content

Fuel Pump Ballast Resistor Upgrade


Recommended Posts

My engine has been cutting out randomly lately and I think I found the cause. The crappy spade connectors used on the fuel pump ballast resistor. These type of connectors suck for automotive or any other use that has inherent vibrations, as they tend to loosen up over time. Especially on circuits that can leave you dead in the water. I found an ignition ballast resistor with the same value as my old one (1.2 ohms) but it has the more secure ring connectors. I've been driving it for two weeks since I did this and it hasn't cut out yet. Just a tip for those who still have the ballast resistor in the pump circuit (as it should be). :yes:

Standard Ignition Resistor RU29T

CXleesn.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The ballast resistor has been MIA on the 87 since I bought it and I haven't noticed any problems, but then again, I don't drive it very much. If I really need one, I will upgrade with Don's idea. Does anyone know what, exactly, the resistor function is and why my truck runs just fine without it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Noise doesn't bother me, but I like anything that might lengthen the fuel pump lifespan by limiting the current through it and postponing that nasty job. I'd much rather replace the resistor than the fuel pump anyday. :thumbsup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can understand your point on that, Don. We still run a ballast resistor on my bro's '88....but keep a factory bypass jumper in the glovebox, because we trust the resistor about as far as we can throw it.

 

 

What did they do to counteract the lack of balast resistor in late 91+?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can understand your point on that, Don. We still run a ballast resistor on my bro's '88....but keep a factory bypass jumper in the glovebox, because we trust the resistor about as far as we can throw it.

 

 

What did they do to counteract the lack of balast resistor in late 91+?

 

The parts manual shows the ballast resistor was used through 1993. I think the XJ fuel pump changed in 1994 though and it didn't need current limiting. But not sure..........

 

And yes, I keep a jumper wire on board too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I always thought the ballast resistor was a Renix-only thing, but either way... I remove it when I see it... just a part waiting to fail and leave you stranded. I don't think there was ever any reason for it other than people complained about the fuel pump noise on the 87's so they band-aid'ed it on to quiet the pump down... In my opinion it doesn't have any effect on fuel pump life. :dunno:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I always thought the ballast resistor was a Renix-only thing, but either way... I remove it when I see it... just a part waiting to fail and leave you stranded. I don't think there was ever any reason for it other than people complained about the fuel pump noise on the 87's so they band-aid'ed it on to quiet the pump down... In my opinion it doesn't have any effect on fuel pump life. :dunno:

 

Yep, ballast resistors have no effect on electrical system loads. That's why automotive manufacturers hang ballast resistors in series with ignition coils, blower/fan motors, LEDs, CDI systems, and other applications. Ever hear of heat dissipation?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I understand what the function of a resistor is.

 

In this case, it lowers the voltage to the pump to reduce noise at idle and part throttle, not significantly lengthen the life of the pump, IMO. The load on the pump is not a factor, since the fuel pressure regulator will bypass any excess pressure above the preset and not allow the pump to struggle. It only SOUNDS like it's struggling because it's spinning faster and making more noise. Does it NEED to when the rig is just idling or at part throttle? No, but it's not hurting it... as long as the fuel pressure regulator is successfully doing it's job and bypassing excess pressure created by the fuel pump back to the tank. Without the resistor, it simply has to bypass a bit more pressure.

 

The ballast resistor is not a necessary part of the fuel pump electrical circuit, unless you are annoyed by the extra noise the pump makes without it. You can take it out like I do to avoid potential issues with the ceramic cracking and breaking or connectors becoming loose or corroded, you can leave it in and carry a spare jumper wire for when it fails, OR you can do what hornbrod did and replace it with one that's less prone to failure. It's up to you.

 

You should hear the externally mounted Airtex pump running at full 14.1 volts pulling from the fuel cell on my YJ if you wanna talk about loud. :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...