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Rust Treatment?


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1) abrade ro remove loose scale

 

2) coat with Ospho

 

3) coat with POR-15

 

Once you open the POR-15 you have to eitiher use up the can

or be prepared to sacrifice the unused portion as it will cure in

the can no matter how tight you hammer the lid.

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The absolute best way to deal with rust is through physical means. That means blasting, sanding, or wire wheeling...or any other means of physical removal. There are plenty of rust treatments out there, but physically removing it with mechanical means will always be better than chemically treating the area, lots of elbow grease is best. If you chemically treat an area then pay close attention to the manufacturers recommendations for coating and be ready for disappointment after you coat the area. No offense but I'm not buying any paint that says it can be coated over rust.....Its like saying you can paint red, white and blue over a democrat....it will simply never stick.

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RE: "...Its like saying you can paint red, white and blue over a democrat....it will simply never stick."

 

YAAA-HOO !!! Sorry for the off topic comment, but this one has put a smile on my face that will probably

last for days - thanks!

 

And, coatings will adhere well to the iron phosphate that Ospho converts the oxide to, I've seen it last

for years, but you can never do better than properly prepared (degreased, etched, and abraded) metal

that is totaly absent of any oxidation and carefully primed. You asked for a temporary fix because it's

cold outside, but why not just wait and do a permanent fix?

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If you just want something to cover it with till spring,

when you can better deal with it?

 

Do not use POR-15

 

If it adheres correctly,

POR-15 is a permanent fix.

 

You will hate trying to remove it in the spring when you're ready to really dig in.

 

For temporary rust prevention,

I just knock off what I can, and hit it with whatever paint I have handy.

Knowing that more rust will be there when I go back,

but not as much as if I left it unpainted.

 

Once you've has a chance to properly prepare the metal,

I completely recommend POR-15.

Just be sure to paint over it when your done,

because it doesn't have any built in UV protection like most other paints

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Once you open the POR-15 you have to eitiher use up the can

or be prepared to sacrifice the unused portion as it will cure in

the can no matter how tight you hammer the lid.

 

Not to disagree,

because I have had this happen to me too (which is why I always buy small cans)

 

But I just opened up 3/4's of a can I had sealed up well over a year ago,

and it was perfect still. :)

 

1)I had "re-canned" it, so maybe the new can sealed better

- the last two POR-15 cans I got had their lids bonded to the cans right from POR,

and I had to destroy them opening it

 

2)I used plastic wrap under the lid, as they recommend (to not bond the lid like above)

 

3)I had the can in my little shop fridge for the whole year+ like they recommend.

 

Hopefully I am just as lucky next time I try to use it again (1/2 the can left now)

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Comanche Country - preach on, brother! There's always the slight possibility one of them may saved by hearing the truth!

And, as Flint54 said, sorry 'bout the thread jack, never happen again (lie), mea culpa, putting on sackcloth and ashes, etc.

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I seen on powerblock: to keep POR - 15 after opening the can, clean the lid and can, use plastic from a plastic bag between the can and lid,

then fill the can with butane (before sealing lid) from a hand torch (unlit) since the POR - 15 cures in the presence of oxygen,

the butane displaces the O2 and because it is heavier, keeps it from curing.

Never tried it, but sounds legit.

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