lovesjeeps Posted March 5, 2007 Share Posted March 5, 2007 I have an opportunity to buy a Ford 9" axle housing for my 89's rear end!. It is 63" from end to end. Is this the right length? I'm not too worried about being a little wide...But short wouldn't be good. Thanks for any help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted March 6, 2007 Share Posted March 6, 2007 In case you didn't realize it, the 9" might not match your wheel bolt pattern. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted March 6, 2007 Share Posted March 6, 2007 In case you didn't realize it, the 9" might not match your wheel bolt pattern. are 9" rears a 5 on 5.5 pattern? jw cause i have 2 american racing polished alloy rims that match the 5 on 5.5 ones that are on my DD. those rims will be going on the offroad one once i buy some better ones for my dd so i guess if fords are 5 on 5.5 then i get to keep them when i go with an 8.8 or 9" :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted March 6, 2007 Share Posted March 6, 2007 The truck ones are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted March 6, 2007 Share Posted March 6, 2007 I have an opportunity to buy a Ford 9" axle housing for my 89's rear end!. It is 63" from end to end. Is this the right length? I'm not too worried about being a little wide...But short wouldn't be good. Thanks for any help. Stock rears are like, umm, 60". What's it out of to be 63"? F-150? Typically a hair narrower is a LOT easier to deal with than too wide. You can throw spacers on a narrow rear, or leave it narrow to decrease turning radius. Too wide means running spacers on the front (your unitized hubs will HATE you) or swapping in a new front axle; a PITA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted March 6, 2007 Share Posted March 6, 2007 Typically a hair narrower is a LOT easier to deal with than too wide. You can throw spacers on a narrow rear, or leave it narrow to decrease turning radius. Too wide means running spacers on the front (your unitized hubs will HATE you) or swapping in a new front axle; a PITA. could run different rims front to back :brows: :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carnuck Posted March 6, 2007 Share Posted March 6, 2007 Some of the bigger Ford cars are too. When I get a chance, I'll be scrapping my buddy's '79 Lincoln (putting the 400 motor and C6 into his '88 Ford pickup that has a tired 351M and trans oil puking C6) and I get the 9" with 5 on 4.5" rear axle with disc brakes. I'm hoping gearing is fairly low. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted March 6, 2007 Share Posted March 6, 2007 Typically a hair narrower is a LOT easier to deal with than too wide. You can throw spacers on a narrow rear, or leave it narrow to decrease turning radius. Too wide means running spacers on the front (your unitized hubs will HATE you) or swapping in a new front axle; a PITA. could run different rims front to back :brows: :D Yeah, and two spares... Actually, if you just carry tubes it would work alright. It's still hack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted March 6, 2007 Share Posted March 6, 2007 Yeah, and two spares... Actually, if you just carry tubes it would work alright. It's still hack. what, you don't like mounting/de-mounting tires on the side of the road when you're late for somewhere? :nuts: (its gettin late sorry guys. :chillin: ill go to bed now.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted March 6, 2007 Share Posted March 6, 2007 Yeah, and two spares... Actually, if you just carry tubes it would work alright. It's still hack. what, you don't like mounting/de-mounting tires on the side of the road when you're late for somewhere? :nuts: (its gettin late sorry guys. :chillin: ill go to bed now.) When I'm late I just drive on it. As long as you go fast enough the centrifugal force causes the tire to expand like there's air in it. Barring this speed is well above what the 4.0 can muster with a long downhill and a few JETO (jet assisted take-off) packs, I can happily drive until the tire comes apart. Actually, I hate dealing with flats or dismounting tires, etc. If it goes flat - I put air into it and drive on it. If it won't take air, I put the spare on. OR I drive it to where I need to be (if it's close... I drove 4k with 2 blown beads... Not enough air to seat them). It is tempting to ditch my full-size spare in favour of a tube (or 6) though - just because the thing is such a PITA to have around. Other than then you have to debead the tire, which isn't too hard if it is in bad enough shape to be putting a tube in it. But, I know if I do this I'll put a nice 1.5' sidewall gash in a tire and render the tube fix useless. Anyways, I still think it's hack to run different rims. Unless you're talking a street vehicle. Or a vehicle that is, without a doubt, totally hack and proud of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carnuck Posted March 6, 2007 Share Posted March 6, 2007 There was a "universal" spare rim Ford used to have with 10 bolt holes. It fit both 5.5" and 4.5" 5 bolt patterns. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted March 6, 2007 Share Posted March 6, 2007 My old aluminum rims were drilled for both patterns, but they were like oblong holes. A PITA to put on, but I keep em in the shed in case any vehicle of mine ends up with different bolt patterns for a length of time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted March 6, 2007 Share Posted March 6, 2007 the one i'm talkin about is a hack...but it isn't going to be. with regards to your slotted rims Kassidy, those shouldn't be a problem at all to install...once on the studs they shouldn't move at all in any direction. i had a set like that on my sandrail at one point. they were great actually, because i could swap them out between my street rail and the one i took out in the dirt (type 1 vs. type 3 bug rear ends on them). [/i] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted March 6, 2007 Share Posted March 6, 2007 the one i'm talkin about is a hack...but it isn't going to be. with regards to your slotted rims Kassidy, those shouldn't be a problem at all to install...once on the studs they shouldn't move at all in any direction. i had a set like that on my sandrail at one point. they were great actually, because i could swap them out between my street rail and the one i took out in the dirt (type 1 vs. type 3 bug rear ends on them). [/i] Was just hard to line up with some larger tires on em. Alot of it may be I'm a lil guy and can't throw around a meaty tire very well, but two holes would go on and I'd have to fandangle on em all around to hook up on the other 3 holes without em falling off. I got upset at that and the weights turning into projectiles on the highway, so now I have Cragars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lovesjeeps Posted March 7, 2007 Author Share Posted March 7, 2007 Looks like I won't be buying the ford 9". Just found a matching pair of Dana 44's off a running 79 Wagoneer think this will be much better for my Truck. Picking up on Saturday! They are 3.73 with 6 on 5.5. So I will need new wheels. Ne1 need some steel Modular wheels (chromed?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted March 7, 2007 Share Posted March 7, 2007 Just a quick question, but is the '79 Waggy t-case a drivers or passenger side drop? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lovesjeeps Posted March 7, 2007 Author Share Posted March 7, 2007 The front D44 was a driver side drop. I'm looking into the rest of the donor vehicle to see what I can salvage. Any idea what Transfer case they used in the Grand Wagoneer? I know it had the 360 engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted March 7, 2007 Share Posted March 7, 2007 NP208J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lovesjeeps Posted March 7, 2007 Author Share Posted March 7, 2007 This is a 79 Grand Wagoneer. On the Jeep Tech web page it says it uses the BW Quadratrac. Does this mean the rear diff is not centered? If its slightly over to the Drivers Side can I still use it? I haven't seen the D44 for my self, so I hope this doesn't ruin my project. But better to find out now before I spend the cash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87manche Posted March 7, 2007 Share Posted March 7, 2007 a slight pinion offset won't harm you. The 8.8 doesn't have a centered pinion and works just fine. the MJ driveshaft is pretty long, so an angle isn't as severe as what it would be on a shorter Jeep. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted March 7, 2007 Share Posted March 7, 2007 Being slightly to the drivers side might cause a conflict with the gas tank. Don't know for sure since I don't know how much offset the waggy stuff is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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