Incommando Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 On 5/24/2014 at 2:27 AM, hornbrod said: On 5/24/2014 at 2:01 AM, Incommando said: I actually went with the double sheer Rubicon Express track bar and bracket in the end. Looks beefy and was easy to install. What means "double sheer" pertaining to a track bar? :hmm: I'm using the Teraflex bar because you can adjust it like a drag link w/o removing an end . Instead of a TRE on the body side they use an open hole kind of like the loop end of a shock so it is supported on both sides by a bolt passing through it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 Ah, okay. just looked up the RE1600 install instructions. It's clear now, it uses a Heim, but requires drilling out the bracket it looks like. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AeroNautical Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 On 5/24/2014 at 2:35 AM, Alexia said: On 5/24/2014 at 1:53 AM, PFCLeist said: What are your experiences with that iron rock double shear track bar? http://ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=IROR&Product_Code=IR-STBCK&Category_Code=PFX I need a new track bar to replace my other new track bar that's crap, and it can get a bit overwhelming with all the options. Price isn't really a problem, it just needs to fit tight and strong. I'm sick and tired of my current track bar shifting when I turn steeply, or hit the trails. The bolts are tightened down so much I'll need to cut em to get em back off, I swear. I've heard mixed reviews about this bar, saying the holes aren't properly matched to the bolt size. Installed just fine for me and matched the hole size at the axle. However, if the mounting hole is wallowed out at the axle then it needs to be repaired. Just installed mine, I am impressed. Built solid and no more clunking. Bolt matched perfectly to the axle side hole, zero play. I suppose the true test'll be on the trail, but so far I'm happy with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88Chief4x4 Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 Where did you weld your shock mounts too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AeroNautical Posted July 10, 2014 Share Posted July 10, 2014 On 7/7/2014 at 3:27 AM, 88Chief4x4 said: Where did you weld your shock mounts too? Welded mounts on the axle. Very easy to do, even with little welding experience. This is an old picture, I cleaned the welds up nice so they wouldn't rust, plus got new shocks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted July 10, 2014 Share Posted July 10, 2014 Interesting what's going on with the load sensing valve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AeroNautical Posted July 10, 2014 Share Posted July 10, 2014 On 7/10/2014 at 2:20 AM, hornbrod said: Interesting what's going on with the load sensing valve. Yeah, funny story. The zip tie was temporarily holding the brake line bracket in place, it's since been replaced with bolts. The load sensing valve was untouched, but instead of creating a longer push rod, I just kinda placed it level and tightened the bolt on the diff cover down. It's an 8.25, so there is a lip on the cover that prevented the bracket from being flush. Hasn't moved, and it works just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted July 10, 2014 Share Posted July 10, 2014 On 7/10/2014 at 5:17 AM, PFCLeist said: On 7/10/2014 at 2:20 AM, hornbrod said: Interesting what's going on with the load sensing valve. Yeah, funny story. The zip tie was temporarily holding the brake line bracket in place, it's since been replaced with bolts. The load sensing valve was untouched, but instead of creating a longer push rod, I just kinda placed it level and tightened the bolt on the diff cover down. It's an 8.25, so there is a lip on the cover that prevented the bracket from being flush. Hasn't moved, and it works just fine. Why didn't you just use a little longer bolts and a couple of standoffs between the cover and valve bracket thick enough to clear the cover lip? If the bracket holes don't line up with the diff you can use a bracket from the D44. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGHEEP Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 Quick question, is everyone still using the stock pitman arm with this lift? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 The stock pitman arm works fine on mine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee21490 Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 On 9/15/2014 at 12:17 AM, BIGHEEP said: Quick question, is everyone still using the stock pitman arm with this lift? Ayup. Works just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wombat Posted November 24, 2014 Share Posted November 24, 2014 The springs listed with the report are 100 bucks MORE then the advertised price...... Time to change the title Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wombat Posted November 24, 2014 Share Posted November 24, 2014 and so are the dropbrackets.. 100 bucks more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted November 24, 2014 Author Share Posted November 24, 2014 On 11/24/2014 at 3:29 AM, wombat said: The springs listed with the report are 100 bucks MORE then the advertised price...... Time to change the title Looks like all the long time deals going on are no more. Time to close it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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