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5.5" $600 Mj Lift - Cheap, High Quality, 100% Complete Lift [Please Read Note]


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I actually went with the double sheer Rubicon Express track bar and bracket in the end. Looks beefy and was easy to install.

 

 

What means "double sheer" pertaining to a track bar?   :hmm:    I'm using the Teraflex bar because you can adjust it like a drag link w/o removing an end .

 

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Instead of a TRE on the body side they use an open hole kind of like the loop end of a shock so it is supported on both sides by a bolt passing through it.

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What are your experiences with that iron rock double shear track bar? http://ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=IROR&Product_Code=IR-STBCK&Category_Code=PFX

 

I need a new track bar to replace my other new track bar that's crap, and it can get a bit overwhelming with all the options. Price isn't really a problem, it just needs to fit tight and strong. I'm sick and tired of my current track bar shifting when I turn steeply, or hit the trails. The bolts are tightened down so much I'll need to cut em to get em back off, I swear. I've heard mixed reviews about this bar, saying the holes aren't properly matched to the bolt size.

Installed just fine for me and matched the hole size at the axle. However, if the mounting hole is wallowed out at the axle then it needs to be repaired.

 

Just installed mine, I am impressed. Built solid and no more clunking. Bolt matched perfectly to the axle side hole, zero play. I suppose the true test'll be on the trail, but so far I'm happy with it. 

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Interesting what's going on with the load sensing valve.

Yeah, funny story. The zip tie was temporarily holding the brake line bracket in place, it's since been replaced with bolts. The load sensing valve was untouched, but instead of creating a longer push rod, I just kinda placed it level and tightened the bolt on the diff cover down. It's an 8.25, so there is a lip on the cover that prevented the bracket from being flush. Hasn't moved, and it works just fine. 

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Interesting what's going on with the load sensing valve.

Yeah, funny story. The zip tie was temporarily holding the brake line bracket in place, it's since been replaced with bolts. The load sensing valve was untouched, but instead of creating a longer push rod, I just kinda placed it level and tightened the bolt on the diff cover down. It's an 8.25, so there is a lip on the cover that prevented the bracket from being flush. Hasn't moved, and it works just fine. 

 

 

Why didn't you just use a little longer bolts and a couple of standoffs between the cover and valve bracket thick enough to clear the cover lip? If the bracket holes don't line up with the diff you can use a bracket from the D44.

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