Zebvance Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 So I have a 1988 jeep Comanche that Has been converted to 4x4 with Cherokee axles, I have a np231 and a Auto trans but not sure which one. The jeep has 6-7 inches of lift in the rear and has a custom made aluminum drive shaft. I just put on iron man motor mounts and a new trans mount and now the seal around the slip yolk shaft is leaking so while I'm already Going to have to fix it I figured I would go ahead and do a Sye. So here are my questions How much is it going to cost? Where should I order from? How hard is it to install? Is the hack n tap worth doing? What are yalls thoughts on a hack and tap? What kind of drive shaft am I going to need? Can I use the from drive shaft from a 07 4 door jk? ( I might be able to get one for free) And last, I plan on swapping a ford 8.8 in in the Near future,will the drive shaft I get for the Sye be long/short enough for the 8.8? Thanks in advance for the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zebvance Posted July 30, 2012 Author Share Posted July 30, 2012 For got to mention, the mj is a short box Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bounty Hunter Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 Performance Offroad Center (PORC) has the best price on a sye kit. It's a relatively easy install, just invest in a set of split ring pliers (ends look like a knurled duck-bill). JK shaft won't work. Look at using a TJ or XJ front driveshaft. Consider a new transfer case chain if your t-case has 70k miles or more, new chain is only $70. The 8.8 with flange adapter should work with the driveshaft you build for the sye. You're better off installing the 8.8 at the same time so you can properly adjust pinion angle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cody4359 Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 i have a advanced adapters sye, it was my sencond choice to the JB conversions sye which was on back order when i needed one. while its apart, throw in a terra 2 low. twoards the bottom of the page is the terra 2 low, cheapest place i could find it and it has free shipping http://sams4x4store.com/TeraFlexDriveTrain.htm the hardest part of the install is messing with the snap rings. invest in a quality heavy duty set. and you can install it with it in the truck to save time. just keep in mind that if you do a sye, its going to move your yoke ahead a few inches, meaning that you will more than likely need to get that fancy aluminium driveshaft lengthened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zebvance Posted August 3, 2012 Author Share Posted August 3, 2012 i have a advanced adapters sye, it was my sencond choice to the JB conversions sye which was on back order when i needed one. while its apart, throw in a terra 2 low. twoards the bottom of the page is the terra 2 low, cheapest place i could find it and it has free shipping http://sams4x4store.com/TeraFlexDriveTrain.htm the hardest part of the install is messing with the snap rings. invest in a quality heavy duty set. and you can install it with it in the truck to save time. just keep in mind that if you do a sye, its going to move your yoke ahead a few inches, meaning that you will more than likely need to get that fancy aluminium driveshaft lengthened. Holy crap! I wish I could afford to put that terra 2 low in it, I might as well just get a dana 300 and adapter plate for that price Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 i have a advanced adapters sye, it was my sencond choice to the JB conversions sye which was on back order when i needed one. while its apart, throw in a terra 2 low. twoards the bottom of the page is the terra 2 low, cheapest place i could find it and it has free shipping http://sams4x4store.com/TeraFlexDriveTrain.htm the hardest part of the install is messing with the snap rings. invest in a quality heavy duty set. and you can install it with it in the truck to save time. just keep in mind that if you do a sye, its going to move your yoke ahead a few inches, meaning that you will more than likely need to get that fancy aluminium driveshaft lengthened. He will need more than that driveshaft lengthened. Without e slip yoke, the driveshaft now needs to have a slip joint in it. In a Cherokee you can usually get away with a stock front driveshaft. In a Comanche you will need to have a front shaft lengthened, or have a custom one built. Neither of those two options is cheap. Nothing wrong with a slip yoke eliminator on a Comanche. Although they're not normally needed they are still a good upgrade. But I would not install one simply because the output seal is leaking. I would replace the $10 oil seal which takes all of 5 minutes, 4 of which is getting the old one out. Holy crap! I wish I could afford to put that terra 2 low in it, I might as well just get a dana 300 and adapter plate for that price If you want to have 2wd low range functionality, I think the $242 listed on that site is quite affordable. Did you perhaps look at the price for the 4-lo (4:1 low range) kit? That one is almost $1200. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 I just put on iron man motor mounts and a new trans mount and now the seal around the slip yolk shaft is leaking so while I'm alreadyGoing to have to fix it I figured I would go ahead and do a Sye. So rather than just replace a $10 seal you're going to drop several HUNDRED dollars on an SYE and have to modify that expensive new driveshaft you just bought? Doesn't sound like a great plan to me. I'd buy a new seal, spent 15 minutes installing it, and call it good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zebvance Posted August 3, 2012 Author Share Posted August 3, 2012 This is the set up I have now and outlines in the picture is the seal that is leaking. The drive-shaft was on the truck when I bought it and I have the receipt for it and it only ran about 100 bucks, It is also aluminum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zebvance Posted August 3, 2012 Author Share Posted August 3, 2012 i have a advanced adapters sye, it was my sencond choice to the JB conversions sye which was on back order when i needed one. while its apart, throw in a terra 2 low. twoards the bottom of the page is the terra 2 low, cheapest place i could find it and it has free shipping http://sams4x4store.com/TeraFlexDriveTrain.htm the hardest part of the install is messing with the snap rings. invest in a quality heavy duty set. and you can install it with it in the truck to save time. just keep in mind that if you do a sye, its going to move your yoke ahead a few inches, meaning that you will more than likely need to get that fancy aluminium driveshaft lengthened. He will need more than that driveshaft lengthened. Without e slip yoke, the driveshaft now needs to have a slip joint in it. In a Cherokee you can usually get away with a stock front driveshaft. In a Comanche you will need to have a front shaft lengthened, or have a custom one built. Neither of those two options is cheap. Nothing wrong with a slip yoke eliminator on a Comanche. Although they're not normally needed they are still a good upgrade. But I would not install one simply because the output seal is leaking. I would replace the $10 oil seal which takes all of 5 minutes, 4 of which is getting the old one out. Holy crap! I wish I could afford to put that terra 2 low in it, I might as well just get a dana 300 and adapter plate for that price If you want to have 2wd low range functionality, I think the $242 listed on that site is quite affordable. Did you perhaps look at the price for the 4-lo (4:1 low range) kit? That one is almost $1200. See I was unaware that I wouldn't just be able to run a front Cherokee drive shaft, that's what I was planning on doing. To my only option with a sye would be to get one custom made or lengthen? I also when to my local transmission shop and asked him what his suggestions were. I trust this guy, I have a few friends that have gotten there gears, lockers, manual trans , and transfer cases rebuilt buy him, He has the cheapest price on labor in town and his stuff holds up with no question. He told me that because of the lift, even with the new drive shaft I really still need a sye or the seal is going to keep going out, he said there is to much stress on that seal from the pressure and angle the drive shaft is at. He said he would replace the seal for about 100$ parts included if I wanted and he would install the sye with new drive shaft, parts Not included for 250$ labor. I didnt think that was to terrible.... Now if i did just do the sye, and get a new drive-shaft do you think I would be able to sell the old one on here? and if I could what would be a fair price to ask? Also yes I was apparently looking at the 4:1 kit, yea 242$ isn't that bad, how ever How low will it be after I gear? And what will my top speed be in 4hi? I tend to cruse down the beach at about 30 mph in 4hi. would I still be able to do this with that kit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skidoo_j Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 i have a advanced adapters sye, it was my sencond choice to the JB conversions sye which was on back order when i needed one. while its apart, throw in a terra 2 low. twoards the bottom of the page is the terra 2 low, cheapest place i could find it and it has free shipping http://sams4x4store.com/TeraFlexDriveTrain.htm the hardest part of the install is messing with the snap rings. invest in a quality heavy duty set. and you can install it with it in the truck to save time. just keep in mind that if you do a sye, its going to move your yoke ahead a few inches, meaning that you will more than likely need to get that fancy aluminium driveshaft lengthened. He will need more than that driveshaft lengthened. Without e slip yoke, the driveshaft now needs to have a slip joint in it. In a Cherokee you can usually get away with a stock front driveshaft. In a Comanche you will need to have a front shaft lengthened, or have a custom one built. Neither of those two options is cheap. Nothing wrong with a slip yoke eliminator on a Comanche. Although they're not normally needed they are still a good upgrade. But I would not install one simply because the output seal is leaking. I would replace the $10 oil seal which takes all of 5 minutes, 4 of which is getting the old one out. Holy crap! I wish I could afford to put that terra 2 low in it, I might as well just get a dana 300 and adapter plate for that price If you want to have 2wd low range functionality, I think the $242 listed on that site is quite affordable. Did you perhaps look at the price for the 4-lo (4:1 low range) kit? That one is almost $1200. See I was unaware that I wouldn't just be able to run a front Cherokee drive shaft, that's what I was planning on doing. To my only option with a sye would be to get one custom made or lengthen? I also when to my local transmission shop and asked him what his suggestions were. I trust this guy, I have a few friends that have gotten there gears, lockers, manual trans , and transfer cases rebuilt buy him, He has the cheapest price on labor in town and his stuff holds up with no question. He told me that because of the lift, even with the new drive shaft I really still need a sye or the seal is going to keep going out, he said there is to much stress on that seal from the pressure and angle the drive shaft is at. He said he would replace the seal for about 100$ parts included if I wanted and he would install the sye with new drive shaft, parts Not included for 250$ labor. I didnt think that was to terrible.... Now if i did just do the sye, and get a new drive-shaft do you think I would be able to sell the old one on here? and if I could what would be a fair price to ask? Also yes I was apparently looking at the 4:1 kit, yea 242$ isn't that bad, how ever How low will it be after I gear? And what will my top speed be in 4hi? I tend to cruse down the beach at about 30 mph in 4hi. would I still be able to do this with that kit? The 2-low kit is not a re-gear. It's a set of levers that allow you to have 2wheel low. so you have 2h 4h n 4l 2l no gear reduction. It's great if have a locker up front, or solid passenger shaft etc. so you can launch a boat and still steer type thing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 Your driveshaft looks too short to me. see all that shiny area? that use to be on the other side of the seal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zebvance Posted August 3, 2012 Author Share Posted August 3, 2012 that could be from the shaft compressing in and out of the case though right? I have fully flexed out the rear on about 6 different occasions last time I took it out. Does anybody have measurements of the shaft fully extended out of the case and fully collapsed? I could measure mine and see how extended it is just sitting and know from that right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zebvance Posted August 3, 2012 Author Share Posted August 3, 2012 i have a advanced adapters sye, it was my sencond choice to the JB conversions sye which was on back order when i needed one. while its apart, throw in a terra 2 low. twoards the bottom of the page is the terra 2 low, cheapest place i could find it and it has free shipping http://sams4x4store.com/TeraFlexDriveTrain.htm the hardest part of the install is messing with the snap rings. invest in a quality heavy duty set. and you can install it with it in the truck to save time. just keep in mind that if you do a sye, its going to move your yoke ahead a few inches, meaning that you will more than likely need to get that fancy aluminium driveshaft lengthened. He will need more than that driveshaft lengthened. Without e slip yoke, the driveshaft now needs to have a slip joint in it. In a Cherokee you can usually get away with a stock front driveshaft. In a Comanche you will need to have a front shaft lengthened, or have a custom one built. Neither of those two options is cheap. Nothing wrong with a slip yoke eliminator on a Comanche. Although they're not normally needed they are still a good upgrade. But I would not install one simply because the output seal is leaking. I would replace the $10 oil seal which takes all of 5 minutes, 4 of which is getting the old one out. Holy crap! I wish I could afford to put that terra 2 low in it, I might as well just get a dana 300 and adapter plate for that price If you want to have 2wd low range functionality, I think the $242 listed on that site is quite affordable. Did you perhaps look at the price for the 4-lo (4:1 low range) kit? That one is almost $1200. See I was unaware that I wouldn't just be able to run a front Cherokee drive shaft, that's what I was planning on doing. To my only option with a sye would be to get one custom made or lengthen? I also when to my local transmission shop and asked him what his suggestions were. I trust this guy, I have a few friends that have gotten there gears, lockers, manual trans , and transfer cases rebuilt buy him, He has the cheapest price on labor in town and his stuff holds up with no question. He told me that because of the lift, even with the new drive shaft I really still need a sye or the seal is going to keep going out, he said there is to much stress on that seal from the pressure and angle the drive shaft is at. He said he would replace the seal for about 100$ parts included if I wanted and he would install the sye with new drive shaft, parts Not included for 250$ labor. I didnt think that was to terrible.... Now if i did just do the sye, and get a new drive-shaft do you think I would be able to sell the old one on here? and if I could what would be a fair price to ask? Also yes I was apparently looking at the 4:1 kit, yea 242$ isn't that bad, how ever How low will it be after I gear? And what will my top speed be in 4hi? I tend to cruse down the beach at about 30 mph in 4hi. would I still be able to do this with that kit? The 2-low kit is not a re-gear. It's a set of levers that allow you to have 2wheel low. so you have 2h 4h n 4l 2l no gear reduction. It's great if have a locker up front, or solid passenger shaft etc. so you can launch a boat and still steer type thing Ahh ok I see Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 that could be from the shaft compressing in and out of the case though right? I have fully flexed out the rear on about 6 different occasions last time I took it out. Does anybody have measurements of the shaft fully extended out of the case and fully collapsed? I could measure mine and see how extended it is just sitting and know from that right? that should be easy enough to test. flex out the rear and see how much goes in. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cody4359 Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 that could be from the shaft compressing in and out of the case though right? I have fully flexed out the rear on about 6 different occasions last time I took it out. Does anybody have measurements of the shaft fully extended out of the case and fully collapsed? I could measure mine and see how extended it is just sitting and know from that right? mine is 45" collapsed 49.25" extended with a sye, and SOA. had a custom cv driveshaft made out of 3" or 2.5" tube, forgot to measure when i was just out there. it wasnt cheap coming in at $380. your setup needs to be corrected, either lengthen your driveshaft ( around $100 at my place) and fix the seal, or get a sye and have a custom shaft made for $$$. as it was stated before, the terra 2 low doesnt change gearing, it just allows you to be in 2wd low range instead of 4low. i just find it fun to see how far you can go in 2wd. sounds like the guy in town has a good gig charging $100 to install a seal and $250 to install a sye :ack: when i did my sye, it took 2-2.5 hrs. take your time and have a little patience and i would say most people can do it. or prepare to be bent over and screwed without lube by your trusted mechanic :popcorn: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skidoo_j Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 that could be from the shaft compressing in and out of the case though right? I have fully flexed out the rear on about 6 different occasions last time I took it out. Does anybody have measurements of the shaft fully extended out of the case and fully collapsed? I could measure mine and see how extended it is just sitting and know from that right? mine is 45" collapsed 49.25" extended with a sye, and SOA. had a custom cv driveshaft made out of 3" or 2.5" tube, forgot to measure when i was just out there. it wasnt cheap coming in at $380. your setup needs to be corrected, either lengthen your driveshaft ( around $100 at my place) and fix the seal, or get a sye and have a custom shaft made for $$$. as it was stated before, the terra 2 low doesnt change gearing, it just allows you to be in 2wd low range instead of 4low. i just find it fun to see how far you can go in 2wd. sounds like the guy in town has a good gig charging $100 to install a seal and $250 to install a sye :ack: when i did my sye, it took 2-2.5 hrs. take your time and have a little patience and i would say most people can do it. or prepare to be bent over and screwed without lube by your trusted mechanic :popcorn: Replacing the seal for $100 is robbery, I guess it depends if the $250 included a rebuild when installing the sye. There's some decent liability there, and some stuff that a newbie could screw up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoryMJ89 Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 i have a rough country sye only cost about 180 190 everyone i know runs it no one has had a problem with it works perfect for me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 Your driveshaft is too short. So much of the slip yoke is sticking out that it probably has play in it, which will mess up a new seal in no time flat. A new seal BTW costs only about $10 and takes just a few minutes to install. The rear pinion angle would be correct for a driveshaft with a double cardan CV joint at the transfer case end, but is completely wrong for a single u joint driveshaft like you have. If you correct the pinion angle by rotating it down so it runs parallel to the transfer case output shaft your driveshaft will be even more too short. No reputable shop can build an aluminum driveshaft for $100. If that's all it cost they took and existing main tube they already had or the owner brought in, installed the u joints, attached the slip yoke and balanced it. If they had built a custom driveshaft it would have cost more and it would have been the correct length. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zebvance Posted August 4, 2012 Author Share Posted August 4, 2012 So if I put a 8.8 in the rear is it Possible that if I kept the set up I have now it would be perfect with the 8.8 because the yolk on the 8.8 sticksOut more than the Dana 35, therefore it would need a shorter driveshaft? But mine is already to short it would be perfect? Maybe..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted August 4, 2012 Share Posted August 4, 2012 yup. upgrading the rear axle goes well with lifting. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted August 4, 2012 Share Posted August 4, 2012 It would help,but still be too short. You need more than an inch to make it right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted August 4, 2012 Share Posted August 4, 2012 He said he would replace the seal for about 100$ parts included if I wanted and he would install the sye with new drive shaft, parts Not included for 250$ labor. I didnt think that was to terrible.... I think that's pretty terrible. $100 to replace the seal? Auto Zone has the seal for $7.19. As has been pointed out, it only takes a few minutes to change it. The worst part of the job is dropping the rear u-joint to pull the driveshaft. Pop the old seal out, press the new seal in ... button up the driveshaft and you're done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted August 4, 2012 Share Posted August 4, 2012 do make sure the u-joint goes back into the yoke in the exact same orientation it is now. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skidoo_j Posted August 4, 2012 Share Posted August 4, 2012 do make sure the u-joint goes back into the yoke in the exact same orientation it is now. :thumbsup: ???? do you mean the yoke into the transfercase or the u joint specifically? Or slip yoke to drive shaft for "phasing" what is the benefit or reason to do this? Secondly after looking at your picture of your pinion angle being 0 and not having a double cardon shaft you maybe getting additional vibes in the shaft causing that extremely extended yoke to burn that seal faster too. here's some reference for that http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/driveline/ http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-shaft/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted August 4, 2012 Share Posted August 4, 2012 I'm referring to the u-joint that connects to the rear axle. putting it in backwards can lead to vibes. u-joints don't like change. :yes: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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