badewolf Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 So i drove to the junkyard this morning, all was well, I leave, go to the gas station, turn the truck off for like 5 minutes, come out, start it up, go to reverse and it stalls, start it again and put it in first, stall. finally got the gas up high enough to where it didnt stall but it shook violently and acted like it was cutting out, died several more times trying to put it in first at stop lights before I limped it to Napa. Guy told me to change my dist cap and rotor, nothing, just changed the plugs yesterday. My fiancee had a job interview so i limped it back on the road, after first or second gear (cruising or highway speed) no problem. I'm seriously at a loss. Any help would be appreciated, I've heard this is a common issue with cherokees. maybe one of you knows. Also having a problem with the truck overheating, the resivour buble has expanded and almost cracked trying to get it home. Not sure if its only because i had to keep the gas so high? any ideas? :hateputers: :wall: :fs1: :headpop: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ComancheKid45 Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 Sounds like Heat Soak and air in the closed cooling system... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badewolf Posted May 30, 2012 Author Share Posted May 30, 2012 Sounds like Heat Soak and air in the closed cooling system... What is heat soak and how do i fix it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 See if the engine to trans bolts are loose causing them to move independently and away from your Crank Position Sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JENSSEN Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 Ballast resistor may have a hair line crack, more heat equals more expansion , hard wire the two wires going to it and live with a slightly louder pump. The ballast resistor is by the air box on the inner fender Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badewolf Posted May 31, 2012 Author Share Posted May 31, 2012 update. waited for engine to cool and still has the same symptoms. so not a heat issue. ugh gonna try these other things when its light tommorow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badewolf Posted May 31, 2012 Author Share Posted May 31, 2012 Ballast resistor may have a hair line crack, more heat equals more expansion , hard wire the two wires going to it and live with a slightly louder pump. The ballast resistor is by the air box on the inner fender Would u happen to have a picture of it, and where would the wires be coming from? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badewolf Posted May 31, 2012 Author Share Posted May 31, 2012 See if the engine to trans bolts are loose causing them to move independently and away from your Crank Position Sensor. i'll check in the morning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JENSSEN Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 Ballast resistor may have a hair line crack, more heat equals more expansion , hard wire the two wires going to it and live with a slightly louder pump. The ballast resistor is by the air box on the inner fender Would u happen to have a picture of it, and where would the wires be coming from? http://www.google.ca/search?tbm=isch&so ... ih=356#p=0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badewolf Posted June 1, 2012 Author Share Posted June 1, 2012 update, tried everything yall suggested, still nothing, doesn't even want to start now. Then I found this on the bottom right side of the block. Wtf is it? The people at Advance had no clue. :mad: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landlubber Posted June 1, 2012 Share Posted June 1, 2012 Bottom right? It is the knock sensor, should be on the drivers side of the block. Mine was smashed also, there are replacements. Don't remember the p/n off the top of my head. The connector is identical to the ones for the injectors. Replacement one. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=444341 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted June 2, 2012 Share Posted June 2, 2012 Ballast resistor may have a hair line crack, more heat equals more expansion , hard wire the two wires going to it and live with a slightly louder pump. The ballast resistor is by the air box on the inner fender Would u happen to have a picture of it, and where would the wires be coming from? 87 does not have a ballast resistor. Sounds like a timing issue to me (too far advanced) and a broken/disconnected knock sensor could definitely cause that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffN Posted June 2, 2012 Share Posted June 2, 2012 check fuel pressure, a lean condition can cause it to run hotter than normal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badewolf Posted June 4, 2012 Author Share Posted June 4, 2012 Update: Installed new knock sensor, bwd. Installed new positive and negative battery cables, double checked all my grounds and fuses. Changed the fuel filter, don't think pressure is an issue cuz it shoots fuel really well. All the bolts on the tranny are tight too. :wall: I'm at a loss here :hateputers: It does idle normally nolw, thanks to the new knock sensor :clapping: but still dies when i press the clutch. :fs1: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carnuck Posted June 7, 2012 Share Posted June 7, 2012 Ground on the block to frame is good? (not the battery one) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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