JeepcoMJ Posted January 26, 2008 Author Share Posted January 26, 2008 scored another (nicer) cargo light today so I'll be replacing mine with this. I also got the switch panel, but gave it to TNT since I figured he'd want it, and I use cherokee switch panels painted black so I don't need it. anyways, either TNT will end up with the spare one, or I'll be putting it in another of my trucks. and, the truck they came off of I'm going to buy. 1986 comanche 4 cylinder 5 speed amc20 rear axle, 4.10 gears and factory split rear. so I will be getting my moeny's worth I think. I love a good day's work :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted February 19, 2008 Author Share Posted February 19, 2008 ah, progress none of this is permanently mounted...just test-fitting. and boy, does it look great :D rest of the pics are here http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/vie ... &members=1 anyways, for $35 a dakota rollbar that was previously in a comanche (after the dakota), fits perfect and my wallet can't argue. needs paint, and probably new lights (i'm not a chrome nut on this truck). i will need to get a spray-in bedliner done, or chop up the drop-in one...not sure which yet. the spare tire carrier is a removable piece with 1 wing nut and a padlock, so i can take it out and still use the bed. now, to get all this finished up and mounted in the bed, and pull the dent...hopefully Scorpio_Vette can have his guy JR spray it for me. the bottom 4" of the body will be black. any opinions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89eliminator Posted February 19, 2008 Share Posted February 19, 2008 i think it looks horrible, you should sell that rollbar... :brows: nah, just kidding, i think it looks awesome, but now I'm going to call you a copier for having a spare tire in your truck (by the way, where did you even get that from) :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted February 24, 2008 Author Share Posted February 24, 2008 so today I took the gas tank door into Monarch paint, and got them to color match the paint, and put it in aerosol cans for me...5 cans, will be ready on monday. $11.97 a can. I'm pulling the dent in the bedside myself, and will simply prime it, respray it, buff it, then clear it and buff it again. this will leave extra paint as well for my rockers and perhaps a set of half doors. also worked on the clutch issues today. found that the slave cylinder had become a bit corroded inside and was bypassing itself when the piston was compressed. SOOO i tore it all apart, and ordered a rebuild kit for it. i also "made" a clutch bleeder. this should be done for ALL AX5 external slave cylinders. used 1 exhaust ubolt clamp (forget what size) two long 1/4" bolts and nuts, bolt this to the clutch slave after it's all connected to the hardline in the truck, crack the bleeder a bit, tap the clutch twice, and stand and fill...gravity will bleed it Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found it was nice out so i was working on it outside mocked up my 33's on the front. Image Not Found Image Not Found good day. also got some things done on my cherokee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted February 24, 2008 Author Share Posted February 24, 2008 clutch now works with the rebuilt slave cylinder. $17.30 for a rebuild kit. master leaks a bit, but not too terrible yet. flexed her out a bit :P Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found she flexes a bit much in the rear....:P love it. can't wait to get the 6.5" lift with 33" tires on her. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted February 27, 2008 Author Share Posted February 27, 2008 I'm in the process of building an on board air system for it right now...will update with pics as it comes along. so far spent (at menards) $7 on a cheapo hose i can use offroad $35 on a pretty heavy duty air filter/oiler/pressure regulator system. $6 on the oil/water seperator $5 on some fittings it's meant to run : air tank/compressor, filter, regulator, oiler....with oiler being for the tools. I'm running it : filter, oiler, air compressor (a/c compressor), regulator, oil/water seperator doing it this way so that I can oil the compressor automatically once i've got the drip feed adjusted. still need to get the hardline for between the oiler and intake of the compressor (has to be hardline cause suction will cause it to go flat otherwise), and output to regulator line. I've got all the connectors I will need. for now, I will be running tankless. when I have the accessories in the bed all set up, I will plumb the truck for a tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted February 28, 2008 Author Share Posted February 28, 2008 got everything I need except for the pressure cutoff switch, and one 1/4x1/4 threaded adapter. here you can see how little room I have to work with Image Not Found but, on the bright side it's still easy to work with Image Not Found drilling out for 90 degree fitting Image Not Found first holes Image Not Found back of compressor Image Not Found with manifold mounted Image Not Found manifold. I have to weld plugs on the two open holes Image Not Found here's the completed setup Image Not Found air filter and oiler Image Not Found regulator, oil/water seperator, connector. haven't installed the connector/seperator yet because i'm not sure where they will be located. Image Not Found back of the compressor. as stated, i gotta weld the holes yet Image Not Found the braided line is actually water line. copper inside, stainless steel braiding. $3 each at 20" long, and they are meant to hold up to 2,000 PSI. we'll see how they work Image Not Found I do need to pick up a pressure cutoff switch before I can wire this all in. otherwise it's a pretty complete system Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted February 28, 2008 Author Share Posted February 28, 2008 oh, grand total is $7 on a cheapo hose i can use offroad $35 on a pretty heavy duty air filter/oiler/pressure regulator system. $6 on the oil/water seperator $5 on some fittings $20 for braided lines and fittings so... $62 invested, got to buy a regulator and some more hose. that's it thus far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNT Posted February 28, 2008 Share Posted February 28, 2008 flexed her out a bit :P Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found she flexes a bit much in the rear....:P love it. can't wait to get the 6.5" lift with 33" tires on her. Maybe once you get you lift and 33's you won't be scared to play in real snow.... Thats a 2wd pile. :rotf: I made the XJ's rear bumper drag climbing straight up 20ft tall piles of snow today. :chillin: I won $20.00 from a tech who said I couldn't do it. I climbed all 3 sides just to show off, 2 were steep enough to drag the XJ's @$$ going up and coming back down. The steepest side stopped me dead when the hitch hit crawling back down. I just blipped the skinny pedal once, problem solved.... A couple of techs with lifted fullsize trucks tried but were denied. 8) Wait, all you would be doing is dragging @$$ even with the lift. :roll: You need to bob the bed it when you fix. :brows: That's why I'm bobbing mine. :D Now would be the time to climb the rock pile in your yard. Now that would be fun. :cheers: On a side note I'm getting pretty good at sidehilling big snow piles, I put it up on 2 wheels about 4 different times today... Just steer into the roll and hammer the skinny pedal. ;) It did play around on one near roll and go about 40 ft on 2 wheels before bringing it back down. It was kind of a wierd feeling the first couple of times I've tried this in the past. :eek: This time I had good traction and got the balancing point right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNT Posted February 28, 2008 Share Posted February 28, 2008 oh, grand total is $7 on a cheapo hose i can use offroad $35 on a pretty heavy duty air filter/oiler/pressure regulator system. $6 on the oil/water seperator $5 on some fittings $20 for braided lines and fittings so... $62 invested, got to buy a regulator and some more hose. that's it thus far. I told you "You can do it". :D It will much better then the electric deal you had planned. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted February 29, 2008 Author Share Posted February 29, 2008 gah. now i want to put in a check valve, and pressure switches are expensive. this project may not get done a.s.a.p. I have a "junk" compressor here at home but...it works, and I'm not inclined to screw with that since it just needs a hole in the tank welded. may wait to get another junk compressor and just use it for parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNT Posted February 29, 2008 Share Posted February 29, 2008 gah. now i want to put in a check valve, and pressure switches are expensive. this project may not get done a.s.a.p. I have a "junk" compressor here at home but...it works, and I'm not inclined to screw with that since it just needs a hole in the tank welded. may wait to get another junk compressor and just use it for parts. I'll ask at work about what psi the check valves blowoff at and what psi the switches work at. I think they might work good for you. They are all air brake parts for semi brakes. I might have an air tank from work that has all the bungs in it, youll just need to plug a few. It's about 30" long and 10" in diameter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted February 29, 2008 Author Share Posted February 29, 2008 had my bro weld the manifold up for me, and started mounting up everything on a sheet of diamondplate Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted March 1, 2008 Author Share Posted March 1, 2008 well. it needs to be driving so I decided to yank out the busted rear axle. yes, it does make sense. blew 7 pinion teeth and two ring gear teeth. what fun. anyways, the housing is still good so it'll be tossed under TNT's 89 MJ to keep it rolling for now. gotta wait for him to get home so i can go steal back my other 3.55 geared dana 35. reason for doing it this way is that I don't currently want to regear, and I'm in the middle of a 1 man job...so i don't want to bleed brakes. I HAVE a 4.09 geared dana 44 in the barn but it's going in with the lift and new front axle. Image Not Found Image Not Found back to work time...finish this up today, then go over the clutch hydraulic system again to be sure it's all good. it's done driveable after that. selling my cherokee in a week or two so keep an eye out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted March 4, 2008 Author Share Posted March 4, 2008 axle in. everything works again, now i just need to NOT step on the skinny pedal so much. dana 44 to go in with lift in a month or so. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WahooSteeler Posted March 4, 2008 Share Posted March 4, 2008 Pat, what are you running for lift in the rear? I've probably seen it posted somewhere else but can't remember. Reason I'm asking, I see 5 leafs back there so I was curious if you have the Big Ton pkg or swapped them in, or if you just have an AAL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted March 4, 2008 Author Share Posted March 4, 2008 Pat, what are you running for lift in the rear? I've probably seen it posted somewhere else but can't remember. Reason I'm asking, I see 5 leafs back there so I was curious if you have the Big Ton pkg or swapped them in, or if you just have an AAL. AAL and as you can see, it still sits a bit up in the back...3" rough country lift (from a few years ago when lower control arms were standard with the kit) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WahooSteeler Posted March 4, 2008 Share Posted March 4, 2008 so you've been happy with it as AAL's go? still using stock shackles? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted March 4, 2008 Author Share Posted March 4, 2008 so you've been happy with it as AAL's go? still using stock shackles? yes, it's been just fine. not sure if I'll remove it or not with the SOA and 6.5" front lift...we'll see. still stock shackles. will build boomerangs though for the future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted March 4, 2008 Author Share Posted March 4, 2008 one thing though...it does ride a bit stiff. just the way i want it set up so it doesn't bother me. i like to actually feel the vehicle move...not ride in something with the feel of a pontoon boat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WahooSteeler Posted March 4, 2008 Share Posted March 4, 2008 Well, rear lift questions are about as confusing as politics. So many opinions on AAL's. I wouldn't mind it being a little stiff because I want increased payload capacity and mine is not a DD. What I've been exploring lately is finding a set of Big Ton packs, as Hornbrod has said he got a full 3" lift out of his, and they were OE arch etc., i.e. not "lift springs". That would address both of my desires of 2-3" of lift AND increased payload and probably even ride better than an AAL, because I would think logically the BT spring packs would be rated for heavier loads than std. packs w/AAL. If the BT packs would not give me all I wanted for lift, I could throw Chevy shackles on. I think I've found a set of BT packs for $100 from a yard. I don't know why, I just have this anal desire to have the factory BT packs. The Rough Country AALs are only $53 delivered from JC Whitney. And I know the BT packs may be worn out and have a fair amount of sag, but I guess I'm willing to take that risk because even if they are in great shape eventually I have it in my head they'd have to be replaced and I would just get a new set like Hornbrod's or from Hell Creek. So all that crap being said, what's your opinion? I have been planning on posting this question on the Pub as "Lift Thread #12,683" but thought since we were on the subject I'd converse with you first. Oh yeah, my front will be handled by ZJ V8 coils and a spacer, plus WJ LCAs, all from mjeff87. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted March 4, 2008 Author Share Posted March 4, 2008 my 89 (tnt has it now) had metric tonne springs...3 or 3.5" of rear lift. rode nice. I'd probably do those first. I'd also probably buy a set of LCA's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WahooSteeler Posted March 4, 2008 Share Posted March 4, 2008 I really wanted to avoid getting in to all the other stuff, LCAs, etc etc. I want to do this on the cheap. Again, not a DD, would never do much wheelin other than some trail running and a little muddin. Just like lift opinions, I've seen a million different views on if you need LCAs with only 3" of lift. Expand on your thoughts please.......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted March 4, 2008 Author Share Posted March 4, 2008 I really wanted to avoid getting in to all the other stuff, LCAs, etc etc. I want to do this on the cheap. Again, not a DD, would never do much wheelin other than some trail running and a little muddin. Just like lift opinions, I've seen a million different views on if you need LCAs with only 3" of lift. Expand on your thoughts please.......... i flat refuse to do any lift over 2" without control arms. you increase the chance of wrecking stuff, even control arm mounts etc. just, not worth the risk, and I've had a truck with more lift than stock control arms could handle...it wasn't pretty and i destroyed those control arms Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted March 10, 2008 Author Share Posted March 10, 2008 ah. back do DD duty as of today. i'm just gonna buy a set of RC 6.5" adjustable control arms (uppers and lowers) to go with the rest of the lift...that will save time and get it lifted now while i build my longarm kit. plus, i've probably got my 33x12.50 dayton timberlines traded for a set of 32x11.50 goodyear wrangler MTR's...yay. wheeling tires. now to get some 33's for street tires...cause at 6.5" of lift it's gonna look funny with 32's. today i'll register it in my name (first driven when i was under 18 so it's in the rent's name right now), insure it, drop the toolbox and bedliner back in, and clean her up a bit. stoked. so plans in the very near future; 6.5" RC coils, trackbar, Adj UCA and LCA, SOA rear with my dana 44 4.09 geared, 4.11 geared dana 30 front. rollbar, removable spare tire carrier, and new subwoofer (mine's cracked). also have the OBA about ready to bolt in...just need an unloader valve and a regulator now. stoked! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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