Eliminating the 101 Connector ?

[RDAN1]

Recently on this forum there was a lot of discussion involving 1. cleaning the 101 connector and 2. bypassing it for the sensor grounds.

 

Since it's a problem area for 87-88 MJ/XJ owners, I'm curious of the pros and cons of just going ahead and taking it out completely and tying the wires together, either by soldering each one or using a quality waterproof crimping method. I'm planning on doing the sensor ground update that cruiser54 outlined of tying the 6 sensor lines together and while I'm at it, considering doing the rest of the wires and taking the connector out but would like some input about it before I do it. I've found some info on other forums about taking it out but not much detail.

 

All help and ideas welcomed, both pro and con..Thanks

[Jeep Driver]

Soldering and heat shrink is the only method I use for a permanent connection. No crimps.

 

I cleaned my C101 and I have no problems with it.

 

I have also upgraded all my cables and grounds...........this is where the effort is worthwhile.

[cruiser54]

Soldering and heat shrink is the only method I use for a permanent connection. No crimps.

 

I cleaned my C101 and I have no problems with it.

 

I have also upgraded all my cables and grounds...........this is where the effort is worthwhile.

 

Biggest issues in the C101 is the sensor ground and CPS circuits.

I do the sensor ground mod and then bypass the C101 with the CPS wires, clean the C101, tweak the connectors and call it good. Good time to do both actually.

 

The ground refreshing and upgrade, even with only the two cables recommended in my write-up are worthwhile. Even better, but not totally necessary is increasing the size of the pos and neg cables.

[RDAN1]

Soldering and heat shrink is the only method I use for a permanent connection. No crimps.

 

I cleaned my C101 and I have no problems with it.

 

I have also upgraded all my cables and grounds...........this is where the effort is worthwhile.

 

Biggest issues in the C101 is the sensor ground and CPS circuits.

I do the sensor ground mod and then bypass the C101 with the CPS wires, clean the C101, tweak the connectors and call it good. Good time to do both actually.

 

The ground refreshing and upgrade, even with only the two cables recommended in my write-up are worthwhile. Even better, but not totally necessary is increasing the size of the pos and neg cables.

 

I agree with soldering and heat shrink vs crimping. That's all I ever consider really. But is there any "value added" benefit to taking the 101 out providing it's been really cleaned and the sensor grounds fix has been done? It sounds like perhaps it would only clean up the look under the hood some but not really offer any other benefit. ???? :dunno:

[NotMatt]

Here's my thinking... assuming it is clean and the connections are tight and waterproof, there really isn't any benefit to removing it. However, if you want to spend the time to solder and heatshrink all of those wires, it would certainly give you some more peace of mind to know that you'll never have to deal with it again. Just make sure you take your time and do a good job on the splicing, and make sure you verify every wire connection... don't want to cross anything.

 

I had to do something similar in my wrangler... it's strictly off road, and does not have fenders any more, and I was worried about the ECM sitting right on the firewall, so I extended each of the wires for the ECM about 6 inches so that I could mount the ECM inside the kick panel where the e-brake pedal used to be. It was a time-consuming project... of course I did two splices for every wire, and you'd only be doing one per wire to get rid of the C101... but still....

[xjrev10]

Soldering and heat shrink is the only method I use for a permanent connection. No crimps.

 

I cleaned my C101 and I have no problems with it.

 

I have also upgraded all my cables and grounds...........this is where the effort is worthwhile.

Is there a such thing as a 'map' of where all the grounds are? Upgrading you mean strip and use a fresh connector I imagine?

[cruiser54]

Soldering and heat shrink is the only method I use for a permanent connection. No crimps.

 

I cleaned my C101 and I have no problems with it.

 

I have also upgraded all my cables and grounds...........this is where the effort is worthwhile.

 

Biggest issues in the C101 is the sensor ground and CPS circuits.

I do the sensor ground mod and then bypass the C101 with the CPS wires, clean the C101, tweak the connectors and call it good. Good time to do both actually.

 

The ground refreshing and upgrade, even with only the two cables recommended in my write-up are worthwhile. Even better, but not totally necessary is increasing the size of the pos and neg cables.

 

I agree with soldering and heat shrink vs crimping. That's all I ever consider really. But is there any "value added" benefit to taking the 101 out providing it's been really cleaned and the sensor grounds fix has been done? It sounds like perhaps it would only clean up the look under the hood some but not really offer any other benefit. ???? :dunno:

 

Not really. Getting the CPS wiring around it along with the sensor ground fix would be good though.

[carnuck]

I put a '90 XJ harness in (partially because I'm converting to auto as well)

[cruiser54]

Soldering and heat shrink is the only method I use for a permanent connection. No crimps.

 

I cleaned my C101 and I have no problems with it.

 

I have also upgraded all my cables and grounds...........this is where the effort is worthwhile.

Is there a such thing as a 'map' of where all the grounds are? Upgrading you mean strip and use a fresh connector I imagine?

 

Here ya go for just the Renix ground refreshing and optional extra cables.

 

Renix Ground Refreshing

 

The Renix era XJs and MJs were built with an under-engineered grounding system for the engine/transmission electronics. One problem in particular involves the multiple ground connection at the engine dipstick tube stud. A poor ground here can cause a multitude of driveabililty issues, wasted time, and wasted money replacing unnecessary components.

 

The components grounding at the dipstick tube stud are:

 

Distributor Sync Sensor, TCU main ground, TCU “Shift Point Logic”, Ignition control Module, Injectors, ECU main ground which other engine sensors ground through, Oxygen sensor, Knock Sensor, Cruise Control, and Transmission Sync signal. All extremely important stuff.

 

The factory was aware of the issues with this ground point and addressed it by suggesting the following:

 

Remove the nut holding the wire terminals to the stud. Verify that the stud is indeed tightened securely into the block. Scrape any and all paint from the stud’s mounting surface where the wires will attach. Must be clean, shiny and free of any oil, grease, or paint.

 

Inspect the wire terminals. Check to see that none of the terminals are crimped over wire insulation instead of bare wire. Be sure the crimps are tight. It wouldn’t hurt to re-crimp them just as a matter of course. Sand and polish the wire terminals until clean and shiny on both sides. Reinstall all the wires to the stud and tighten the nut down securely.

 

While you’re in that general area, locate the battery negative cable which is fastened to the engine block just forward of the dipstick stud. Remove the bolt, scrape the block to bare metal, clean and polish the cable terminal, and reattach securely.

 

Another area where the grounding system on Renix era Jeeps was lacking is the engine to chassis ground. There is a braided cable from the back of the cylinder head that also attaches to the driver’s side of the firewall. This cable is undersized for it’s intended use and subject to corrosion and poor connections at each end.

 

First off, remove the cable end from the firewall using a 15mm wrench or socket. Scrape the paint off down to bare metal and clean the wire terminal. Reattach securely.

Remove the other end of the cable from the rear of the head using a 3’4” socket. Clean all the oil, paint and crud from the stud. Clean the wire terminal of the cable and reattach securely.

 

A suggestion regarding the braided cable:

I prefer to add a #4 Gauge cable from the firewall to a bolt on the rear of the intake manifold, either to a heat shield bolt or fuel rail bolt. A cable about 18” long with a 3/8” lug on each end works great and you can get one at any parts store already made up. Napa has them as part number 781116.

 

A further improvement to the grounding system can be made using a #4 cable, about 10” long with 3/8” terminals at each end. Attach one end of this cable to the negative battery bolt and the other end under the closest 10mm headed bolt on the radiator support just forward of the battery. Napa part number 781115.

 

 

 

If you want to upgrade your grounds and battery cables in general, contact Jon at www.kelleyswip.com. He makes an incredible cable upgrade for a very reasonable price.

 

 

Revised 11-28-2011

 

Do you wanna test the sensor ground circuit for possible bad connections in it, too?