ftpiercecracker1 Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 The block i am going to use for the build needs to have the usual machining. A local shop that i am trying out says it is going to run me about $625 for the block work and $325 for the crank work. here is how they break it down. Block: cleaning, new freeze plugs and cam bearings-$130 (shop cleaning is mandatory) Bore & hone- $140 head & block decking-$140 miscellaneous -$68 Head: basic valve job & adjustment-$148 Crank & rods: + crank turned and polished + pistons removed and replaced + rods turned and polished = $325 NO balancing included Tell me what you think, I was really looking forward to this build, but the whole $1000 machine work bill has left a bad taste in my mouth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 Doing things right won't be cheap. Good machining generally isn't cheap either. Maybe it's time to just rebuild it and put it back in. Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimoshel Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 :agree: Good shop work will be expensive. Think of it as an investment. The better the investment, the better the returns. The last time I had any shop work done was over 15 years ago. That was almost $600. Allowing for inflation a $1000 now sounds about right. If you have any doubts about the shop, ask around. Surely there's a garage, shop or mechanic around who uses them regularly and would be willing to share their opinion of their work with you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 Head:basic valve job & adjustment-$148 Valve "adjustment"? The MJ engines used hydraulic lifters, and the retainers get torqued down on a shoulder. There is nothing to adjust. Crank & rods:+ crank turned and polished + pistons removed and replaced + rods turned and polished = $325 NO balancing included Does the R&R for the pistons include the price of the new pistons and wrist pins? What do they mean "rods turned and polished"? How do you "turn" a connecting rod? Are you sure this shop has ever seen the inside of an internal combustion engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cody4359 Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 its a bit more expensive, but comes with a 3 year unlimited miliage warranty, 270 hp and 320 ft lb torque. for what it comes with it seems like a deal http://www.golenengineservice.com/engin ... long-block Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimoshel Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 Not sure what they mean by 'valve adjustment' either. Only thing I can think of is shimming the springs. Never heard it called 'valve adjustment'. Was just called 'shimming'. When grinding the valves and seats it removes metal and the keeper slot is higher from the head producing less spring pressure. They measure the height of the keeper and add shims under the springs to restore the original height. This should be accepted practice at any professional shop. On the rods, the only thing I can think of is bolting the rod cap back on to the rod and machining the bearing surface. Rerounding the hole so to speak.Insures the bore is parallel with the crank. The cap is then is then ground down to restore the proper circumference, Polishing the rod is just that. Removes all the casting roughness and bumps. Idea being less turbulence and better oil flow. Both steps necessary in full out race engines but not needed in street or stockers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 Prices sound about right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue XJ Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 I had about the same done plus reconditioning the rods, and installing the pistons on the rods, I think it was about $1400 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted February 29, 2012 Author Share Posted February 29, 2012 I apologize for the vagueness of the post. valve adjustment: Just the term that the shop used, they rarely if ever work on jeeps, of any kind, they might not even know about the none adjustment. turn and polish the rods: what that jimoshel said, resurfacing the surface of the bearing, making it "true" again. but don't worry i have already removed all of my stuff from said shop and looking for another one. I a quite glad i did because after talking to my local NAPA, (first name basis:thumbsup:) they let me know that not only are they one of the highest priced shops in town, but also the least competent. The shop was sold to another owner a few years ago, and according to my guys, the new management screws up a LOT of stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flint54 Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 I'll add just a couple comments: 1) Highly recommend you locate and select a machine shop with performance experience on our motors. 2) I am fortunate to have nearby a machine shop that does nothing but cylinder heads, and does them very well, and he told me I could easily drop $1000 in labor on the head alone, should I choose to. I did not choose to, but the point is, power costs money, how much do you wish to buy. Hope you are able to strike a good balance between cost and result. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tugalo Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 Good on ya for checking with the Napa guys and not just accepting what the shop told you. If everybody did that, every time, crappy businesses would be extinct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 What area are you in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 I did not choose to, but the point is, power costs money, how much do you wish to buy. Hesco's motto is similar. But fortunately you get exactly what you pay for - excellent results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted March 1, 2012 Author Share Posted March 1, 2012 New shop, Reed Grant performance. Extremely helpful and welcoming, answered every question with humility and clarity. The man is an engine genius. 50+ years experience. Experience on "our" motors doesnt matter, he was already doing research on jeep strokers before i even left the shop. price. . . original (mike's speed shop)- near $1000 :eek: :fs1: new (Reed Grant)- $550 and thats no expence spared :banana: he also has his own custom built dino (he used to design them), on which he personally tunes each engine he builds. To the person who asked about my area, think Murfreesboro, TN (middle TN) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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