Truck is at paint shop...need some help on reassembly parts

[phenryiv1]

I finally took my 88 Pioneer to have it painted. I am going from Garnet Red to a Chili Pepper Red, so no drastic color change.

 

Anyway, I stripped off pretty much everything that I could take off that seemed reasonable. I removed:

 

Bumpers

Body side mounding

Headlights/taillights/turn signals

"Hockey stick" decals

Badges

"Jeep" tailgate stickers

Over-the-rail bedliner

Windshield trim

Sill plates

Complete grille assembly (had updated to a 3-peice version)

Mirrors

Wipers

Wiper Cowl (replaced the cowl but removed the insert)

 

Much of this stuff is off and will be painted/repainted in John Deere Blitz Black.

 

I left on the truck:

Flares

Glass

Lock cylinders

Antenna base

Door handles

 

So the truck should be back next week, and I need to try to get things together so ease re-assembly.

 

I found that most of the windshield clips cracked, and I was not really keen on the metal trim as it is. I read on here and other sites that I can either replace the clips and re-install the windshield OOOOORRRRRRR, I can try to install the rubber weatherstrip from a 95+ XJ. Some links talk about having to have the windshield out to do it. Others talk about having to grind off the tabs that hold the clips in place. I can't seem to get a straight answer. Can someone shed some light on the subject?

 

CC link to past discussion:

 

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=15224&view=next

 

(By the way, the CC SEARCH function was not working when I made this post...I found that link through a Google Search. Please excuse if I missed some obvious CC threads.)

 

Link to the rubber weatherstripping:

 

http://www.teamcherokee.com/Weatherstrip/index.html (Last entry)

 

Do I just press-fit the new rubber weatherstripping, or does it need to be glued in place? Can it be installed without removing the windshield?

 

If I can't go with the rubber weatherstripping option, is there a trick to re-installing ther clips? They had an "L" bend that made it seem like there was no way to get them onto (or off of, for that matter) the tabs without breaking them. And can they be bought at a place like Fastenal?

 

I also need a lot of the speed clips- the ones from the taillights, the front bumpers (those big ones), etc. Any suggestions on where to get them? I tried the automotive fasteners section at Lowes but they had nothing of the sort...at least not tin the proper

sizes.

 

Thanks in advance for any help that people can offer.

 

Edit:

 

Post day 1 teardown pics:

 

 

[Akula69]

I am also going to switch to the later-model trim when we replace the windshield in the '89. As stated in the link you referenced, I expect to grind down the tabs for the old trim clips, and I will coat them with the zinc rust preventitive.

 

As far as the new trim needing the windshield out - all I have read says this is not necessary and I realize the urethane only holds the glass (and the trim gets "glued" to the outer surface), but I can't help but believe that the fresh urethane (with the windshield replaced) will help hold the bottom edge of the trim in.

 

Get you spped clips at NAPA or Auto Zone. Quantity in pack depends on size.

[Jeep Driver]

A good automotive paint store will have the trim clips and blind nuts.........or Fastenal for the blind nuts.

 

If it were me..........I'd spend the $227 at Safelite and have them install a new windshield with the seal you want and be done with it, beats screwing up a new paint job or gooobering it up with sealant.

[phenryiv1]

A good automotive paint store will have the trim clips and blind nuts.........or Fastenal for the blind nuts.

 

If it were me..........I'd spend the $227 at Safelite and have them install a new windshield with the seal you want and be done with it, beats screwing up a new paint job or gooobering it up with sealant.

The problem is that I'd still have to grind off all of the tabs that hold the OEM windshield clips in place.

 

Is it possible to mark the location of the tabs and notch the rubber trim to fit around the tabs? Since the trim is just...well, trim...I was thinking that I could cut out where the OEM mounting tabs are located and could slide the rubber trim in place without having the tabs put too much pressure on the windshield at the tab locations.

 

Thoughts?

[yellaheep]

Don't get hung up about cutting off those trim clips. You won't be needing or wanting to go back to that damn metal trim ever again.

 

I've replaced ALL of my XJ/MJ project vehicle's windshields using the rubber trim. Definitely a better idea to install it correctly - cutting off the inner part of the trim that normally goes around the glass to hold it in place just makes attaching the outter part of the trim more difficult and ya have to use way too much of that gooey glue to hold it in place. Makes replacing the windshield a much more difficult job having to cut through and then clean out all that glue.

 

You can order the pinch nut/clip fasteners from Fastenal. Haven't found a real cheap source but they'll have 'em. The local Ace Hardware stores around here carry the "specialty" fasteners in plastic drawer/bin boxes - sometimes you have to ask as they may keep these locked up to keep folks from running off with the pricey little things.......

[phenryiv1]

Don't get hung up about cutting off those trim clips. You won't be needing or wanting to go back to that damn metal trim ever again.

 

I've replaced ALL of my XJ/MJ project vehicle's windshields using the rubber trim. Definitely a better idea to install it correctly - cutting off the inner part of the trim that normally goes around the glass to hold it in place just makes attaching the outter part of the trim more difficult and ya have to use way too much of that gooey glue to hold it in place. Makes replacing the windshield a much more difficult job having to cut through and then clean out all that glue.

 

You can order the pinch nut/clip fasteners from Fastenal. Haven't found a real cheap source but they'll have 'em. The local Ace Hardware stores around here carry the "specialty" fasteners in plastic drawer/bin boxes - sometimes you have to ask as they may keep these locked up to keep folks from running off with the pricey little things.......

It isn't that I am afraid that I'll want to go back...it is that I will be taking a grinder to my freshly-painted truck. Plus I'll be dropping another few hundred dollars on a windshield to replace a perfectly-functional windshield. Had I thoight of the windshield issue before, I'd have dealt with the tabs BEFORE it went to paint.

[ParadiseMJ]

If it were me..........I'd spend the $227 at Safelite and have them install a new windshield with the seal you want and be done with it, beats screwing up a new paint job or gooobering it up with sealant.

 

...and then if anything gets goobered or damaged, it's on them. That is a good price, even if they charged $25 or so extra for the rubber.

[yellaheep]

Use a dremel with a cut off wheel. Not a grinder. I'm sure you know someone who has a Dremel if you don't have one - they make short, easy work of removing those pins. They'll knock out easy too using a flat blade screwdriver and small hammer. Just give 'em a couple of moderate taps and they'll pop out. The windshield sealant can be used to cover the holes just fine.

[64 Cheyenne]

This is my DIY: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=32365

 

Worked out OK, only difference I will do next time is to not be cheap and spend the coin for automotive grade quick cure sealant.

(took a long time for the urethane curing smell to go away from the inside of my truck) and the other change would be to put the sealant on the truck, then install the glass to the sealant that is already on the truck.

 

Or as others have said, let the pros do it :wall: but that is another story as told in Mary Jane.

[64 Cheyenne]

Quote: "It isn't that I am afraid that I'll want to go back...it is that I will be taking a grinder to my freshly-painted truck. Plus I'll be dropping another few hundred dollars on a windshield to replace a perfectly-functional windshield. Had I thoight of the windshield issue before, I'd have dealt with the tabs BEFORE it went to paint."

 

BTW I see you have a garage...(could warm the garage and gasket sealant to make removal easy) myself, I would remove the sides and top of the old WS glue/gasket with the HF tool, then cut the bottom with a bicycle cable as seen in this other DIY post: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=19487&hilit=slider+replacement

 

Or let the pros do it.....

 

Me, I'm short on funds so I got a brain that lets me do things cheaper in cash but usually costs me more in the long run with time.

 

Indian injunuity!

[phenryiv1]

Thanks for the tips above. My stupidity for not thinking far enough ahead and dealing with this while I was stripping the truck.

 

I do have a dremel with a cutoff wheel, so that may be the easiest option. I don't mind getting a new windshield (I am already sinking way more $$$$ into this than its monetary value, but the truck has tremendous sentimental value, so while it isn't that money is no object, I don't have to worry about recouping my costs in dollars somewhere down the road.

 

Also, as the MJ is not my daily driver, I have the luxury of time. I don't have to do anything with it right now.

[phenryiv1]

Some early shots from stopping by to see the truck yesterday:

 

 

 

[Jeep Driver]

Wow, looks nice.

 

How much did the paint job set you back?

[phenryiv1]

Wow, looks nice.

 

How much did the paint job set you back?

With me doing nearly all of the prep work (save for 1 small spot of rust near the taillight that I wanted them to handle) and all of the teardown, I paid $850 for the paint and the application of the paint.

 

I still have to do all of the reassembly, including purchasing all of the parts that I need to replace like clips and fasteners.

 

Had I had them do it, I don't even want to know what they'd have charged. I had about 20 hours total in the removal of the decals, emblems, adhesives, trim, the accessory teardown, and the sanding.

 

I wish that I had paid more attention to some smaller dings that were nearly invisible with the dull paint but are now pretty obvious.

[knever3]

Looks nice. :cheers:

[vaquaro]

Great color , looks fantastic :thumbsup:

[phenryiv1]

What is the best way to remove all of the old adhesive tape from the body side molding?

[phenryiv1]

Washed a bunch of the small parts (in the dishwasher) to degreaes them for paint:

 

 

And the results of the paint job, plus a partial reassembly. I used Krylon (the stuff for plastics) satin black spray bombs for the trim pieces. They turned out pretty good for a spraybomb job done in mid-40s weather.