Jump to content

Dual Battery setup


Recommended Posts

JP magazine did one... http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticles/electrical/154_1106_june_2011_randys_electrical_corner/index.html

 

Sort of cool to be able to control/monitor the batteries from inside the cab but also seems like just more stuff to go wrong IMO. I think it was kinda spendy also.

 

Thanks :wrench:

Chad

 

that is a little pricey, but it was cool.. I think i need to hold off till my next job starts before i get that into it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is great information. I have been researching dual batteries for a while now for my other Jeep. Don't know how I missed the JP Magazine piece as I am a subscriber, but reading this forum really pays off!

 

Thanks!

 

-mel

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Slightly on topic, another way to do it:

 

My camper van has two batteries: the starter battery under the hood, as well as a deep cycle battery under the kitchen floor to run lights, tv, dvd player, water pump etc. When the van is off, the batteries are isolated from each other, when the ignition is in the "on" or the "accessory" position, a relay (powered from an accessory feed from the fuse panel, through an in-line 5 amp fuse) connects the batteries together.

 

This allows the alternator to charge both batteries when the engine is running. It also allows to built-in float charger to maintain BOTH batteries when plugged into an outlet by leaving the key in the accessory position instead of off.

 

In case of a dead charger battery (happened last summer when I forgot about that battery powering the door operated dome light, DUH!) I can use a test lead to connect deep cycle battery power from the relay "output" to the relay trigger to keep it closed, both because the starter battery couldn't provide enough current to power the relay and because the accessory circuits are disconnected when the key is in the "start" position. This kept the batteries connected no matter where the key was and allowed me to start off the deep cycle battery. A side effect of the test lead (since it powers the accessory circuit through the 5 amp fuse) is that the dash clock will light up, and the radio will also work, even without a key in the ignition. The cigarette lighter will blow the 5 amp fuse, though.

 

No oil pressure switch, no push button momentary switch, and it should work as well as the above circuits. It works for my van and I see no reason why it wouldn't work for a Jeep.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mine along the same lines as your van, my first battery is the primary and the second just feeds my cooling fans, and other equipment.

The wiring the two batteries are connected thru a 15Amp bounce resister thru NC contacts, and if the engine temp climbs the contacts open disconnecting the two batteries and another NO contacts close, connecting the one battery to the fans allowing the alternator to just be charge the primary battery as the fans run.

Then as the engine cools down the contacts again change reattaching the two batteries together, disconnecting the fans and the alternator is now recharging the cooling battery thru the bounce resister at a slower rate of only 15Amps allowing the alternator not to be overworked…

Note; I’m running an aftermarket 163 Amp Alternator, with two 800CCA batteries… B…

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok so what happens if I just slaped another batt in and run pos to pos and neg to neg, that's it. Will I have issues?

 

You shouldn't, but if they're not seperated by a solenoid/relay of some sort if one battery fails, the voltage will even out between them. If they're both good at 12v you'll get double the amps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...